998cc Did Bad fuel cause additional problems? Ideas?

[Spinnadude]

Hey guys I just bought my first Can Am Spyder RT limited SE5. It’s a 2013 with 4200 miles. Once delivered it drove well no issues. I went to the gas station to refuel my empty tank. I filled it up with 87 because yes, I didn’t research and went full idiot. On the way home which is less than 5 miles it started surging and idling very rough. I did the basic research and found out that I used the wrong fuel.

By the time I got home I had an Oxygen sensor fault. I ordered 2 sensors and replaced them both and drained the fuel and replaced it with 91. and since it’s been sputtering. It doesn’t sputter initially but after about 5 miles it sputters at idle. It’s not backfiring, just sputtering and hard to accelerate in 1st gear.

Did the bad fuel cause additional problems? I have a low voltage on bank one code. And it makes a clacking sound when in first gear and reverse. Forgive my grammatical errors.

 

[Woodaddict]

I'll give a brief answer, I don't know all specifics. But you CAN use 87 octane. 91 or 93 is recommended but not required. Possible source of running bad are the 2 short MAP 3mm hoses. Got micro cracks in them. Possible denergated plug wires

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey guys I just bought my first Can Am Spyder RT limited SE5. It’s a 2013 with 4200 miles. Once delivered it drove well no issues. I went to the gas station to refuel my empty tank. I filled it up with 83 because yes, I didn’t research and went full idiot. On the way home which is less than 5 miles it started surging and idling very rough. I did the basic research and found out that I used the wrong fuel.

By the time I got home I had an Oxygen sensor fault. I ordered 2 sensors and replaced them both and drained the fuel and replaced it with 91. and since it’s been sputtering. It doesn’t sputter initially but after about 5 miles it sputters at idle. It’s not backfiring, just sputtering and hard to accelerate in 1st gear.

Did the bad fuel cause additional problems? I have a low voltage on bank one code. And it makes a clacking sound when in first gear and reverse. Forgive my grammatical errors.

Did you really mean to say 83 octane? I don’t know what that is. But, if you did, that could be important.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Did you really mean to say 83 octane? I don’t know what that is. But, if you did, that could be important.

:agree: ... I've never heard of 83 octane either, & the rubber hoses to the throttle bodies are well known to not age well .....good luck ...Mike

 

[racoon]

Is 83 what you get when you mix a gallon of 87 with a pint of water?

:joke:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Is 83 what you get when you mix a gallon of 87 with a pint of water?

:joke:

Well, It's North Carolina after all. Maybe he meant 83 proof.

Now Back to Spinnadude - if you actually meant 87 octane, then everybody knows, 87 octane won't do to your 998 what you have described. There's more to the story. Fess up. I bet that you didn't actually need to replace your 02 sensors. It was more likely that the problem itself was driving the code, not a bad 02 sensor at all. However, 5 miles is about how long it takes for an 02 sensor to complete its warmup on a 998 and come on-line. If that time / distance is consistently repeatable, over and over again, then it's related to the 02 sensors that you put in.

I had the #1 02 sensor go bad on my old 998, and you could set your watch to exactly how long the motor would run, right up to and until all of a sudden it started missing and sputtering. Did you use OEM sensors, or just grab one from the auto parts store?

If you don't have OEM sensors installed, bite the bulllet and put in the correct ones. Search this forum for the vacuum hose information and check them. There are posts and pictures all over the place.

On the other hand - if you actually meant 83 octane, I have no idea what to tell you, or what could have possibly gone wrong. It does, however, seem related to stopping for gas. But regardless, get the correct 02 sensors in there.

 

[Spinnadude]

Did you really mean to say 83 octane? I don’t know what that is. But, if you did, that could be important.

Guys. I meant 87 not 83.

I'll give a brief answer, I don't know all specifics. But you CAN use 87 octane. 91 or 93 is recommended but not required. Possible source of running bad are the 2 short MAP 3mm hoses. Got micro cracks in them. Possible denergated plug wires

I was thinking the plugs as well. Although it only has 4200 miles it is a 2013 Florida bike.

Well, It's North Carolina after all. Maybe he meant 83 proof.

Now Back to Spinnadude - if you actually meant 87 octane, then everybody knows, 87 octane won't do to your 998 what you have described. There's more to the story. Fess up. I bet that you didn't actually need to replace your 02 sensors. It was more likely that the problem itself was driving the code, not a bad 02 sensor at all. However, 5 miles is about how long it takes for an 02 sensor to complete its warmup on a 998 and come on-line. If that time/distance is consistently repeatable, over and over again, then it's related to the 02 sensors that you put in.

I had the #1 02 sensor go bad on my old 998, and you could set your watch to exactly how long the motor would run, right up to and until all of a sudden it started missing and sputtering. Did you use OEM sensors, or just grab one from the auto parts store?

If you don't have OEM sensors installed, bite the bullet and put in the correct ones. Search this forum for the vacuum hose information and check them. There are posts and pictures all over the place.

On the other hand - if you actually meant 83 octane, I have no idea what to tell you, or what could have possibly gone wrong. It does, however, seem related to stopping for gas. But regardless, get the correct 02 sensors in there.

Thank you. I bought the rear sensor from BRP and the front from Amazon. The 02 sensor fault code disappeared. I really don’t want to go to the '$180 just to diagnose and an additional $210 an hour labor rate' from the only certified BRP service center nearby!

87. To err is human. To forgive divine :welcome:

 

[racoon]

Guys. I meant 87 not 83.

I figured as much, but a guys just gotta have some fun now and again.

 

[Spinnadude]

The code 1130 came up and the only thing I did was fuel up and drive home. I added some injector cleaner as well. Scouts honor that’s all I did. I am not shamed or embarrassed about anything. If I added water or diesel I would post that. I am seeking advice, therefore I would disclose everything.

I figured as much, but a guys just gotta have some fun now and again.

Yes sir.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

The code 1130 came up and the only thing I did was fuel up and drive home. I added some injector cleaner as well. Scouts honor that’s all I did. I am not shamed or embarrassed about anything. If I added water or diesel I would post that. I am seeking advice, therefore I would disclose everything.

So, what codes do you have now?

 

[Mikey]

Did you check your map lines?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Ok Spinna - let's reset this. Unless there was some other contamination problem, 87 octane fuel had nothing to do with it. It's the most commonly available fuel in North America. Of course, a Spyder can run on that. But, you made some decisions based on that which may not have been a problem at all.

Replacing an O2 sensor based solely on an O2 sensor code, without looking at if there is an underlying combustion issue driving the output low, is probably the oldest mistake in the book. So, you're forgiven for that. P1130 is for just the front sensor. You didn't need to replace both of them. The front sensor came from Amazon, but you didn't say if it was a BRP original part or an "equivalent replacement". To me, there's no such thing when it comes to engine sensors. Still questioning the front sensor.

You have an 11 year old 998 with very low mileage, that's been sitting around for awhile. The 998 has a couple of Achille's heels, that cause drivability problems, that you can take care of yourself, that have to be done no matter what. So, just do it.

- There are two vacuum lines from the MAP sensor to the throttle body on the left hand side. Search the forum for pics and location. Just replace them now. 3mm ID silicon hose, cut the new ones exactly the same length as the old ones.

- Remove the charcoal canister and purge valve system. It's called a canisterectomy by the Spyderlovers community. Again, search the forum for how to.

- Replace spark plugs and wires. Get them from BajaRon.

If that front O2 sensor was not a BRP original part, then consider replacing that if the above items fail to correct your situation. Yeah, we had some fun with you. Sorry about that. Good luck.

 

[BajaRon]

What did you find when you drained the fuel? Did you save it in a container that you could inspect? Did you drain it from the bottom or suck it out from the top? Have you inspected the inside of your fuel tank? Was it sitting for a long time with ethanol fuel? Maybe not full causing rust buildup above the fuel line with water and corrosion below. A fresh fill up could start loosening rust. It could be a clogged fuel filter and contaminated injectors. We get this fairly often with older, low mileage bikes that have been sitting.

I doubt that changing spark plugs will help here.

 

[Spinnadude]

Hey guys I just bought my first Can Am Spyder RT limited SE5. It’s a 2013 with 4200 miles. Once delivered it drove well no issues. I went to the gas station to refuel my empty tank. I filled it up with 87 because yes, I didn’t research and went full idiot. On the way home which is less than 5 miles it started surging and idling very rough. I did the basic research and found out that I used the wrong fuel.
UPDATE: Although it did throe the P1130 code prompting me.to change both O2 sensors out. Thanks to you great guys, I narrowed it down to the vacuum lines. They both had cracks. Changed them out and no longer does it Rev between 13 and 1400. Steady at 1400. I haven't driven it yet. But I think I'm good. Thanks to you all.

By the time I got home I had an Oxygen sensor fault. I ordered 2 sensors and replaced them both and drained the fuel and replaced it with 91. and since it’s been sputtering. It doesn’t sputter initially but after about 5 miles it sputters at idle. It’s not backfiring, just sputtering and hard to accelerate in 1st gear.

Did the bad fuel cause additional problems? I have a low voltage on bank one code. And it makes a clacking sound when in first gear and reverse. Forgive my grammatical errors.

Solved!

Vacuum lines were cracked. Now she's running smooth. Still the annoying clacking sound in 1st, but it runs great.

 

[K80Shooter]

Solved!

Vacuum lines were cracked. Now she's running smooth. Still the annoying clacking sound in 1st, but it runs great.

If you referring to the noise when you 1st put it into gear, that's normal.

 

[Spinnadude]

No she chunks hard when in first gear, but then it continues to make a clacking sound until I switch into second.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Solved!

Vacuum lines were cracked. Now she's running smooth. Still the annoying clacking sound in 1st, but it runs great.

See Posts #2 & #4 ....BINGO ! .....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Spinnadude]

I'll give a brief answer, I don't know all specifics. But you CAN use 87 octane. 91 or 93 is recommended but not required. Possible source of running bad are the 2 short MAP 3mm hoses. Got micro cracks in them. Possible denergated plug wires

Thank you. You nailed it buddy. Thanks.

 

[Woodaddict]

You nailed it buddy. Thanks

Glad to help. I have a 1330cc engine, so it's from reading everyday on this site, me can help you

 

[KX5062]

No she chunks hard when in first gear, but then it continues to make a clacking sound until I switch into second.

It's normal to make a hard clunk going into gear, but it shouldn't continue to make noise once in 1st gear. You might want to check into that further. It might just be an adjustment, or something more serious......