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Clanking Sound

wengerda

New member
New issue with my bike, no error codes or warning lights by the way. The shifting up and down does sound sync too. When shifting up no issues, when shifting down no issues, but when I release the throttle I heard a loud clanking sound in the front. As soon as I accelerate, the noise is gone, only when I am in coast mode between down shifting and lowering my speed. I checked the oil level and it is perfect. Any ideas, I will have to make an appt with the dealer.
 
Do you hear the clank when going over bumps? I had a similar noise, and it turned out to be loose sway bar backets. Tightened them up, and the noise went away.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk
 
Do you hear the clank when going over bumps? I had a similar noise, and it turned out to be loose sway bar backets. Tightened them up, and the noise went away.

Sent from my SM-G928P using Tapatalk

No only when I am riding and letting the throttle go (coasting) as soon as I accelerate or shift up or down is completely fine.
 
Well after the tech checked my bike, I was told that is an issue with the transmission therefore the engine needs to come out. They are calling BRP in how to proceed. This sucks....:banghead:
 
Well after the tech checked my bike, I was told that is an issue with the transmission therefore the engine needs to come out. They are calling BRP in how to proceed. This sucks....:banghead:

That does not sound good. Hope they can get you back on the road quickly. As fast as they were able to diagnose it. Sounds like it may be something they've seen before.
 
TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE REMOVAL

I'm curious as to why they need to remove the engine for a transmission issue ???? ..... Maybe I don't know enough about the 1330 ........... Mike :thumbup:
 
I am not sure why they need to remove the engine, but they wont do anything until BRP gives them the okay. The bike was serviced by them at 3K then at the end of the year approximately 7600 miles, also I had an oil change at 9800 miles. Now I have 10K and the bike is a 2015. Very frustrating.
 
The service manager called me and they did some troubleshootingon my bike per direction of BRP. All the test came normal, they are not sure what is the problem, therefore they think it will need a new transmission and maybe a motor too. My question, I read a few previous comments and if you dont smashed the paddle hard you can have issues later. I believe I was not soft on the paddle but what happens if you shift without smashing it hard? They think that the bike will be at their shop for at least 2 months. Also do we have motorcycle lemon law (Virginia) on a 2015 with 10k under the belt. Thank you everyone for your comments.
 
To be precise......The paddles are electrical switches. They are not pressure sensitive. That's just another urban legend that has taken on a life of its own around here. I've been lightly flicking mine for 5 years and 35k miles and it loves it. You didn't do anything wrong to cause this.

Agreed. 2 months for any job, much less a warranty job is ridiculous.
 
To be precise......The paddles are electrical switches. They are not pressure sensitive. That's just another urban legend that has taken on a life of its own around here. I've been lightly flicking mine for 5 years and 35k miles and it loves it. You didn't do anything wrong to cause this.

Agreed. 2 months for any job, much less a warranty job is ridiculous.

I have to agree. Just another stupid myth that gets repeated often. But one of many.

How can they tell you it will take 2 months and they don't know what's wrong. Really!!!!
 
Thank you for the myth information, I wanted to make sure that I did not do something wrong. I am in the Northern VA area, This area is very hard for our Spyder toy, we dont have platinum dealers like in many other places. Well maybe if they figure out exactly what it is wrong, then they can fix it faster. Also if I start demanding, I will pissed them off and probably will not even be faster fixing my Spyder. :mad:
 
Too Long!!

I don't see how it will take 2 months for an engine change. Wouldn't it be worth a haul elsewhere to shorten it up? I'm sure there is a dealer within 3 or 4 hours that could do it faster. I remember seeing a post on here of someone else having to get a whole engine/transmission & I don't think it even took a month. Am I right Bob?:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow:
 
The manager told me that it will take time to fix the bike because we are at the peak of the season. Well I willwait for 2 weeks and see how they are progressing. I will keep you guys informed.
 
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If you are willing to put up with sub-standard repair times shame on you. Just my 2 cents but BRP should replace the engine/transmission with a new unit. You shouldn't expect the repairs to take more than a week and that is being generous. Two months "Because they are busy" is total BS. Would you accept this kind of treatment on a 10,000 mile one year old car? I doubt it. If you bought it new at this dealer I'd be talking lemon law.

Edit: At minimum I would expect the dealer to do an oil analysis and remove the filters and inspect them for metal. At least that would indicate what it is that is failing. If nothing is found you should ride it until it shoots craps. The we don't know what's wrong and you get to be the Guiney Pig is BS. The dealer should have trained techs, not someone off the street learning on your high dollar ride. RANY OVER!
 
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