• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Checking oil accurately

It would be nice if it was that simple on the Spyder but it's not. When Micky picked up his Spyder in Hollywood I wanted to show him how to check his oil when he was on the road and why you shouldn't check it when it was cold. His Spyder had sat over night and I pulled his dipstick and the oil was right in the middle of the stick cold and it had just been serviced by the dealer. I've checked my oil cold and it is all over the place too. I don't know why this is but I'm sure the smart folks at Rotax would have put a longer dipstick in if it was that easy.
 
Sight Glass

Cool. I checked them out. I would buy a spare tank to try it on but with a rating of 212 degrees would worry the heat would be to much for it. Our poor Spyder get hot. I like the idea very, very much. I did check my oil cold but wonder while sitting, how much migrates into the engine and would that be constant? I have talked to a few that haven't even checked the oil level, just drive and have it changed, how much is left and with dry sump the engine never drys up. I always keep mine at the full mark until the last 600 miles, then I change it without checking, 2/3 rds quart is used till the 2400 miles. Hard to believe anyone else not using any with the 990 pushing so much weight and mass through the wind. BRP needs a bigger displacement engine in the RT Series of the Spyder. Have sales peaked?
 
oil level

My wife and I each have a spyder and don't really see the issue with the way it is now. It's not like it is necessary to check the oil level on every ride either.
The thing I would like to see changed for future spyder design is being able to check the oil level with out the removal of the side cover (maybe by using an automotive type dipstick tube and a slide type opening in the top of the side pod). Same for fuel fill, it should have access without lifting the seat.
As for checking oil when hot, not a big problem.
 
It would be nice if it was that simple on the Spyder but it's not. When Micky picked up his Spyder in Hollywood I wanted to show him how to check his oil when he was on the road and why you shouldn't check it when it was cold. His Spyder had sat over night and I pulled his dipstick and the oil was right in the middle of the stick cold and it had just been serviced by the dealer. I've checked my oil cold and it is all over the place too. I don't know why this is but I'm sure the smart folks at Rotax would have put a longer dipstick in if it was that easy.
This is very true, and there would definitely be some footnotes to this procedure. The cold oil level couldn't be properly checked until the engine was run briefly, to evacuate the sump. Ambient temperature would most certainly cause substantial variations. That is why the check at "full operating temperature" is specified. That is the only consistent temperature. Still, having a stick that was just a little longer would be very useful for setting the level after an oil change, or adding oil, as you wouldn't be suddenly "surprised," you could sneak up on the sppecified level. Once an owner learned where the oil typically was on a cold stick, it would ease his mind, compared to the "no oil" appearance that many of our northern riders experience in colder weather.

BTW, the "flow-through" sight glasses mentioned earlier are not what I had in mind. These have to be secured from inside the tank, and are prone to leaks, with so many parts. The ones that merely screw into a bung welded into the tank would be the trick, in my mind. My BMW has just such a glass in its sump, as do some other brands.
 
Where did the oil go?

Last week I checked the oil level cold (not run for a day). The oil level was a little below half on the dip stick. I recalled some discussion on this board about oil moving from the tank to the sump when parked so I decided to started and run the spyder for about 30 seconds ( did not time it). I assumed that oil from the bottom of the engine would be pumped back into the tank and increase the oil level. But to my surprise there was no oil at all on the dipstick!! I restarted the spyder and timed it this time and idle it for 30 seconds. Rechecked and again no oil on the dipstick again. The oil had to be in there so I went for a 1/2 hour drive and got it to operating temperature. I then followed the correct procedure. took the access panel off, restarted and idled for 30 seconds, checked the level and it was at the full line. I do not understand what happened but I am convinced that the only accurated way to check the oil level is hot and if oil shows anywhere on the dip stick when cold it's ok and drive on.
 
I do not understand what happened but I am convinced that the only accurated way to check the oil level is hot and if oil shows anywhere on the dip stick when cold it's ok and drive on.

Correct, that's the sure way [right way] Also the oil does go back into the crankcase when cold.
That's why most if not all manufacturers of bikes highly recommend check when warm.
 
A good friend who has ridden cycles his entire life gave me the best advice one day. If you properly maintain all the fluid levels on a cycle you're going to enjoy years of riding. :thumbup:

Not sure why others are so eager to ignore or dismiss the instructions in the Spyder owner/shop manual thinking they know a better more convenient way of checking something as important as fluid levels. It's not that hard to properly check the oil/brake/clutch per the manual...is it? I'm pretty confident BRP put a lot of research an development into their published instructions on the subject. Sure, they tend to err on the side of caution. Sometimes to the point of being very annoying. :gaah: But IMHO you can't knock the results when it comes to down time on the Spyder. To me that is the worse...down time. Granted, "things happen" but if I can reduce the time my Spyder is not road worthy I'm going to do that...religiously. I follow the maintenance instructions as best I can, discuss what I don't know with a dealer and have enjoyed almost a year an a half of pure bliss travelling 28K without many issues at all. No complaints here. :dontknow:

I ride my Spyder hard but I choose not to be "hard on my :spyder: " Sorry if this comment offended you Dave. I regret saying that publicly now. Like I said in the follow-up I was trying to help you since I noticed in you "blog" you checked the oil on a cold engine and added oil based on that reading. It's your Spyder, do whatever you want. I just will avoid trying to share what little I know about these beautiful machines on here.
 
A good friend who has ridden cycles his entire life gave me the best advice one day. If you properly maintain all the fluid levels on a cycle you're going to enjoy years of riding. :thumbup:

Not sure why others are so eager to ignore or dismiss the instructions in the Spyder owner/shop manual thinking they know a better more convenient way of checking something as important as fluid levels. It's not that hard to properly check the oil/brake/clutch per the manual...is it? I'm pretty confident BRP put a lot of research an development into their published instructions on the subject. Sure, they tend to err on the side of caution. Sometimes to the point of being very annoying. :gaah: But IMHO you can't knock the results when it comes to down time on the Spyder. To me that is the worse...down time. Granted, "things happen" but if I can reduce the time my Spyder is not road worthy I'm going to do that...religiously. I follow the maintenance instructions as best I can, discuss what I don't know with a dealer and have enjoyed almost a year an a half of pure bliss travelling 28K without many issues at all. No complaints here. :dontknow:

I ride my Spyder hard but I choose not to be "hard on my :spyder: " Sorry if this comment offended you Dave. I regret saying that publicly now. Like I said in the follow-up I was trying to help you since I noticed in you "blog" you checked the oil on a cold engine and added oil based on that reading. It's your Spyder, do whatever you want. I just will avoid trying to share what little I know about these beautiful machines on here.

AMEN:thumbup:
 
I use a 5 quart oil extractor and ONLY put in a couple onces more than the level in the extractor that I cummulatively took out!;)
 
Hi folks,
I'm Ray from California, 1st. time on forum
? so what was everyones measurments when oil was checked cold. Did all of you using this method have the same measurments or were they off quite a bit. Does it matter if Spyder is RS or RT, I think both have same size.
Please share measurments
thanks
ray 2009 red RS SE5
 
Just wondering if i said to use 20 / 50 oil in your Spyder, Most of you., Would say, Your crazy, the manual doesn't recommend that:lecturef_smilie:
So why would you check your oil cold, The manual doesn't Recommend that either.:dontknow:
 
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