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Check your front pully bolt ...AGAIN!

RShrimp

New member
I just finished servicing my Spyder at 7500 miles (Last service was at 5000)
During the last service I retorqued the front pully bolt to 89FT/LBS

Suposedly, thats all you need to do and you dont need to recheck it.
I re-checked it anyway and it moved 1/4 turn before the wrench clicked!

Bottom Line: This should be checked at each oil change! You already have all the parts out of the way so just do it!
 
I just finished servicing my Spyder at 7500 miles (Last service was at 5000)
During the last service I retorqued the front pully bolt to 89FT/LBS

Suposedly, thats all you need to do and you dont need to recheck it.
I re-checked it anyway and it moved 1/4 turn before the wrench clicked!

Bottom Line: This should be checked at each oil change! You already have all the parts out of the way so just do it!

How many body panels have to come off to get access to the front pully bolt?
 
If you dont mind flexing the left rear panel (thats how I do it cause I have bags) it can be done by only removing the one you need to remove to check the oil, the one above it, and the one behind/below it. Same as changing your oil minus the little one underneath.
 
If you dont mind flexing the left rear panel (thats how I do it cause I have bags) it can be done by only removing the one you need to remove to check the oil, the one above it, and the one behind/below it. Same as changing your oil minus the little one underneath.
Thanks. I should have noticed that you're not on an RT before I asked the question. That's what I have, so it's probably different.
 
Thanks for the heads up Randy. I just did an oil change today, and was looking at the bolt, but did not even think about rechecking the torque on it. :gaah: Hopefully it will be just fine for a while longer.
 
Ken's oil change kit tripped my trigger to check it again. It has a little note in it with the new spec as part of the instructions.
 
loosen then retorque

Like Scotty said in another thread:


I'll add another lesson regarding the sprocket bolt re-torquing...

Be sure to loosen the bolt (or any fastener) before retorquing. The cured Scotch-Lock on the fastener (or any threadlocker on a fastener) will increase the torque needed to move the bolt, and you will falsely think that it is torqued to spec, when it is basically sticking a little bit. Back it off, then retighten to spec. If using an alternate threadlocker, remove it completely, clean, and re-apply the threadlocker before tightening.
 
Like Scotty said in another thread:


I'll add another lesson regarding the sprocket bolt re-torquing...

Be sure to loosen the bolt (or any fastener) before retorquing. The cured Scotch-Lock on the fastener (or any threadlocker on a fastener) will increase the torque needed to move the bolt, and you will falsely think that it is torqued to spec, when it is basically sticking a little bit. Back it off, then retighten to spec. If using an alternate threadlocker, remove it completely, clean, and re-apply the threadlocker before tightening.

Let me add, once you get it retighted MARK the BOLT and PULLY with a permant MARKER then you can see if the bolt backed off with just a simple look through the panels..

X-Joe
 
Let me add, once you get it retighted MARK the BOLT and PULLY with a permant MARKER then you can see if the bolt backed off with just a simple look through the panels..

X-Joe
This will tell you if it backs out, but not if the shoulders of the shaft splines wear, as described in the original service bulletin, allowing the sprocket to seat further, thus loosening the bolt tension.
 
This will tell you if it backs out, but not if the shoulders of the shaft splines wear, as described in the original service bulletin, allowing the sprocket to seat further, thus loosening the bolt tension.

What service bulletin are you referring to? According to the RT service manual the bolt should be torqued to 81 ft-lb . . . not 89.
 
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