PDXRTL
Member
Wouldn't be nice if we really could choose to be beta testers and have the ACP crashes sent back so they actually had data to work with?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
CarPlay Froze, then entire Head Unit Froze Up While Riding, then supposedly updated and rebooted on the Highway - Anyone else had this happen?
- Thread starter jfischer
- Start date
racoon
Well-known member
I retired after way too many years working in the computer software industry, and have done my fair share of software testing of new versions.
If they gave me a Spyder and asked me to be a tester I'd agree.
But I paid way too much money for a beta version.
Rode for 5 hours yesterday, including a few stops along the way. ACP worked perfectly. So I really don't think it's the iOS beta, since it works fine in multiple vehicles, and it is about as reliable (other than that one freeze/reboot glitch) as usual. Didn't even get the customary head unit freeze requiring a restart of the bike at all yesterday.
When it works, which is most of the time, it's great. Being able to stream Apple Music, or SiriusXM while having on-screen navigation to my destination is so nice. I just moved too so I am not that familiar with the area once I leave my local spots.
Pathfinder
Member
Just took a short ride this morning and ACP froze 2 miles down the road. Had to pull over and the complete start up procedure to get it back. Did a 30 min ride north and then turned the nav for home, froze again for about 5 min then restarted itself. ACP is flakey enough where I think Garmin will be calling my name.
racoon
Well-known member
Some updates. So my iPhone SE 2nd Gen that I've had for several years has finally stopped holding a charge. It used to be that after an overnight charge it would easily last the entire next day, and sometimes longer. But in the past week the battery has only lasted a couple of hours before needing to be plugged into a power source.
So I went shopping for a new iPhone. Yes, I am an unapologetic Apple FanBoy.
I have my phone service through Verizon Wireless, and after a bit of poking on their website I decided on an Apple iPhone 16e.
UPS delivered the new iPhone 16e yesterday, and I added it to my Apple account and checked for updates.
Which is why I'm here. Yes, the iPhone 16e needed an update right out of the box, and is now running iOS 26 (23A341). I have no idea what the numbers in parenthesis mean, but that's what it says when I check the iOS Version in the About section of the General settings on my iPhone.
One annoying thing is that the new iPhones come with USB C connectors, a change from the Lightning connector that the previous generation of iPhones used. Which of course means all of my cables are no longer any use to me.
One of the interesting things is that I have a iPad Mini that has a USB C connector on one end and a USB A connector on the other, so I did have cable that I could use to plug my new iPhone into my computer. I also had purchased a non-Apple USB C to USB A cable for the iPad Mini.
I did go buy a Belkin USB C/USB A braided cable to use in my truck, and it works perfectly with my new iPhone.
And I just went out to test my new iPhone with my Spyder.
First I turned on the bluetooth headset in my helmet and saw on my Spyder's display that it connected.
Then I powered on my new iPhone 16e and connected it to my Spyder over Bluetooth. There was a momentary bit of confusion which I'll come back too.
Of course Apple CarPlay on my 2024 Spyder RT requires the iPhone be plugged into the USB port in the glove box.
So I plugged it in with the first USB C/USB A cable. The CarPlay screen came right up.
Then I disconnected and switched to a different USB C/USB A cable. Again, the CarPlay screen came right up.
I just confirmed, again, that my new iPhone 16e is running iOS 26, so that version did not break Apple CarPlay for my 2024 Spyder RT Sea2Sky.
Oh. Yeah. That "bit of confusion" comment.
Apple has designed a built in process to upgrade from an old iPhone to a newer iPhone. It basically clones all of the apps, files, and settings from the old iPhone to the new iPhone. Works pretty good, although it took a bit over an hour to complete the process.
So the confusion came when I plugged the new iPhone into my Spyder. The Spyder said it was named "iPhone SE" which was the name of my old iPhone. I didn't know that the clone process also cloned the "Model Name" setting on the iPhone.
That's now fixed, and my new iPhone is named "iPhone 16e".
The final piece is thst I'm still waiting for the new QuadLock case for my new iPhone to arrive so I can continue to use the QuadLock mount I was using with my old iPhone. I'm hoping it gets here by Thursday, when I'll be riding to the Motorcyclist Map's Appalachian Fall 2025 event in Kodak, TN. If it's not here, than the phone will be tucked in a jacket pocket and connected by a long cable to the Spyder. And I'll also be packing my Garmin Zumo XT motorcycle GPS, just in case.
www.motorcyclistmap.com
So I went shopping for a new iPhone. Yes, I am an unapologetic Apple FanBoy.
I have my phone service through Verizon Wireless, and after a bit of poking on their website I decided on an Apple iPhone 16e.
UPS delivered the new iPhone 16e yesterday, and I added it to my Apple account and checked for updates.
Which is why I'm here. Yes, the iPhone 16e needed an update right out of the box, and is now running iOS 26 (23A341). I have no idea what the numbers in parenthesis mean, but that's what it says when I check the iOS Version in the About section of the General settings on my iPhone.
One annoying thing is that the new iPhones come with USB C connectors, a change from the Lightning connector that the previous generation of iPhones used. Which of course means all of my cables are no longer any use to me.
One of the interesting things is that I have a iPad Mini that has a USB C connector on one end and a USB A connector on the other, so I did have cable that I could use to plug my new iPhone into my computer. I also had purchased a non-Apple USB C to USB A cable for the iPad Mini.
I did go buy a Belkin USB C/USB A braided cable to use in my truck, and it works perfectly with my new iPhone.
And I just went out to test my new iPhone with my Spyder.
First I turned on the bluetooth headset in my helmet and saw on my Spyder's display that it connected.
Then I powered on my new iPhone 16e and connected it to my Spyder over Bluetooth. There was a momentary bit of confusion which I'll come back too.
Of course Apple CarPlay on my 2024 Spyder RT requires the iPhone be plugged into the USB port in the glove box.
So I plugged it in with the first USB C/USB A cable. The CarPlay screen came right up.
Then I disconnected and switched to a different USB C/USB A cable. Again, the CarPlay screen came right up.
I just confirmed, again, that my new iPhone 16e is running iOS 26, so that version did not break Apple CarPlay for my 2024 Spyder RT Sea2Sky.
Oh. Yeah. That "bit of confusion" comment.
Apple has designed a built in process to upgrade from an old iPhone to a newer iPhone. It basically clones all of the apps, files, and settings from the old iPhone to the new iPhone. Works pretty good, although it took a bit over an hour to complete the process.
So the confusion came when I plugged the new iPhone into my Spyder. The Spyder said it was named "iPhone SE" which was the name of my old iPhone. I didn't know that the clone process also cloned the "Model Name" setting on the iPhone.
That's now fixed, and my new iPhone is named "iPhone 16e".
The final piece is thst I'm still waiting for the new QuadLock case for my new iPhone to arrive so I can continue to use the QuadLock mount I was using with my old iPhone. I'm hoping it gets here by Thursday, when I'll be riding to the Motorcyclist Map's Appalachian Fall 2025 event in Kodak, TN. If it's not here, than the phone will be tucked in a jacket pocket and connected by a long cable to the Spyder. And I'll also be packing my Garmin Zumo XT motorcycle GPS, just in case.
Appalachian Fall 2025 | Motorcyclist Map
Get ready for an unforgettable ride! Join Motorcyclist Map’s Appalachian Fall 2025 event — epic roads, scenic views, and great company, all for a cause that matters.
www.motorcyclistmap.com
Ok, first time poster. I'm here because I've been having the same ongoing issues.
I have a 2024 RT Limited, an iPhone 13, and the Sena 50C headset. ALL with updated software (I'm getting the iPhone 17 when they are back in stock). And I'm having a series of the same issues.
Bluetooth will connect. Bluetooth won't connect. Sometimes it all works fine, other times I need to restart the Spyder 3 times to get CarPlay to engage before I can begin my ride. I've had the screen freeze on the GPS, showing me frozen in my starting location. I've had my head unit start to flash and then reset; I've had my speakers stop working; I've had my radio suddenly go static-y on all stations. All at different times. Always requiring me to stop to restart the system (sometimes on a highway). I like to take out of the way, unknown routes, but when the GPS won't connect, I'm lost in the middle of nowhere and have to unplug the phone just to see the GPS on the phone screen on the handlebar, losing Sirius radio and phone answering in the deal.
Oh, one more thing. I've always had problems answering the phone using the Spyder. At the best of times, there is a 3-5 second delay from when I speak to when the other person hears me, and vice versa. Lately, when my wife calls me, I can answer, but either she can't hear me or I can't hear her. That has been ongoing right from new. I listen to YouTube while I commute, and I also notice that the sync is off by a few seconds (the lips don't match the sound) which isn't really a problem because I'm not watching the video; but when answering the phone, that IS a problem, since I can't use my communication device to communicate. The sound was perfect before I owned the Spyder, when the headset was directly connected to the phone, but now that it loops through the Spyder's CarPlay, there is a delay in sound.
Oh again. I've also lost sound AFTER I receive a phone call. Whatever I was listening to is now muted (music, youtube, etc). I don't remember if I have to stop the bike and restart after that, or how I get sound working again, but I think I had to stop the bike to get sound working again.
The dealer updated the software, but that didn't help. I might have made it worse, as I went on a 3000 km road trip up North and had numerous issues throughout the trip.
I plan on bringing it back to the dealer for my second oil change and for them to fix this, but since Can Am themselves don't know how to fix it, my dealer won't either.
So, I've tried various ways and none of them seem to be the resolution. Sometimes I turn my headset on first; sometimes, the bike first, then wait for the phone to connect, then plug the cord in, then the headset; sometimes I turn on the headset last; sometimes I connect the cord first, then the bike, then wait for the phone, then the headset... I've tried all sorts of combinations, but none have been the silver bullet!
I have a 2024 RT Limited, an iPhone 13, and the Sena 50C headset. ALL with updated software (I'm getting the iPhone 17 when they are back in stock). And I'm having a series of the same issues.
Bluetooth will connect. Bluetooth won't connect. Sometimes it all works fine, other times I need to restart the Spyder 3 times to get CarPlay to engage before I can begin my ride. I've had the screen freeze on the GPS, showing me frozen in my starting location. I've had my head unit start to flash and then reset; I've had my speakers stop working; I've had my radio suddenly go static-y on all stations. All at different times. Always requiring me to stop to restart the system (sometimes on a highway). I like to take out of the way, unknown routes, but when the GPS won't connect, I'm lost in the middle of nowhere and have to unplug the phone just to see the GPS on the phone screen on the handlebar, losing Sirius radio and phone answering in the deal.
Oh, one more thing. I've always had problems answering the phone using the Spyder. At the best of times, there is a 3-5 second delay from when I speak to when the other person hears me, and vice versa. Lately, when my wife calls me, I can answer, but either she can't hear me or I can't hear her. That has been ongoing right from new. I listen to YouTube while I commute, and I also notice that the sync is off by a few seconds (the lips don't match the sound) which isn't really a problem because I'm not watching the video; but when answering the phone, that IS a problem, since I can't use my communication device to communicate. The sound was perfect before I owned the Spyder, when the headset was directly connected to the phone, but now that it loops through the Spyder's CarPlay, there is a delay in sound.
Oh again. I've also lost sound AFTER I receive a phone call. Whatever I was listening to is now muted (music, youtube, etc). I don't remember if I have to stop the bike and restart after that, or how I get sound working again, but I think I had to stop the bike to get sound working again.
The dealer updated the software, but that didn't help. I might have made it worse, as I went on a 3000 km road trip up North and had numerous issues throughout the trip.
I plan on bringing it back to the dealer for my second oil change and for them to fix this, but since Can Am themselves don't know how to fix it, my dealer won't either.
So, I've tried various ways and none of them seem to be the resolution. Sometimes I turn my headset on first; sometimes, the bike first, then wait for the phone to connect, then plug the cord in, then the headset; sometimes I turn on the headset last; sometimes I connect the cord first, then the bike, then wait for the phone, then the headset... I've tried all sorts of combinations, but none have been the silver bullet!
Last edited:
JoSheSpyder
New member
Here is my story with Carplay crashing, and even crashed the whole cluster while riding.
Also like all of you, I've experienced almost all of your issues.
I tried a lot of things. Sorry if I am very technical and IT related here. I'm in IT
- My Sequence: Turn key to on, don't start the bike yet. Let your headsets connect to bike (all headsets if you have two). Then connect phone, wait for Carplay. Start bike.
- My checks:
F3 Limited 2024.
iPhone 16 Pro, iOS 26.
BRP Software 710011541 (global firmware). CSS 6.0.10092. Bootloader 1.9.0.
Cardos Packtalk Pros for headsets paired to bike only, not the phone.
No VPN ON (I confirmed this one breaks the connection). For this, I made an automation in iOS to turn off the VPN when Carplay starts, and reverts back to ON when not using Carplay.
Certified or original cable from Apple, or an MFI (Made for iPhone) cable. I use a nimble 2.4ft braided (Powerknit Flex) cable, and metal connectors.
I also tested with my wife's iPhone 13 mini, and it froze at the moment Carplay started.
All tests are made connected to a Noco Genius 5 to prevent battery discharge issues.
Possible solution here:
- The one major thing I need to confirm because this fixed my unstable issues, even in the garage: I found today if you have Wifi networks configured in the bike, it will try to reach them, or scan them to connect, and at this time, your bluetooth will also break on the driver's helmet, which so forth crashes Carplay, because it needs the driver headset to be connected.
I tested this twenty times in the garage this morning, turning off the key and starting from scratch. I also tested by not respecting the sequence, like leaving the phone connected, turning off bike, turning on the bike, or like plugging it in mid boot of the cluster, and it won't affect or freeze Carplay!!! Once the headsets connects to bike, Carplay starts like butter and stays alive. This is also very nice, within under 10 seconds of turning the key.
I will get the bike connected to a charger this afternoon, and play some music for a while to see if it breaks. I have a ride on Sunday, and will test it thoroughly then too, on the road.
So to recap,
1. All Wifi's deleted in the cluster to prevent scans.
2. No VPN.
3. MFI or certified cable.
Fingers crossed. I will report back.
If this works, BRP owes me money here.
Also like all of you, I've experienced almost all of your issues.
I tried a lot of things. Sorry if I am very technical and IT related here. I'm in IT
- My Sequence: Turn key to on, don't start the bike yet. Let your headsets connect to bike (all headsets if you have two). Then connect phone, wait for Carplay. Start bike.
- My checks:
F3 Limited 2024.
iPhone 16 Pro, iOS 26.
BRP Software 710011541 (global firmware). CSS 6.0.10092. Bootloader 1.9.0.
Cardos Packtalk Pros for headsets paired to bike only, not the phone.
No VPN ON (I confirmed this one breaks the connection). For this, I made an automation in iOS to turn off the VPN when Carplay starts, and reverts back to ON when not using Carplay.
Certified or original cable from Apple, or an MFI (Made for iPhone) cable. I use a nimble 2.4ft braided (Powerknit Flex) cable, and metal connectors.
I also tested with my wife's iPhone 13 mini, and it froze at the moment Carplay started.
All tests are made connected to a Noco Genius 5 to prevent battery discharge issues.
Possible solution here:
- The one major thing I need to confirm because this fixed my unstable issues, even in the garage: I found today if you have Wifi networks configured in the bike, it will try to reach them, or scan them to connect, and at this time, your bluetooth will also break on the driver's helmet, which so forth crashes Carplay, because it needs the driver headset to be connected.
I tested this twenty times in the garage this morning, turning off the key and starting from scratch. I also tested by not respecting the sequence, like leaving the phone connected, turning off bike, turning on the bike, or like plugging it in mid boot of the cluster, and it won't affect or freeze Carplay!!! Once the headsets connects to bike, Carplay starts like butter and stays alive. This is also very nice, within under 10 seconds of turning the key.
I will get the bike connected to a charger this afternoon, and play some music for a while to see if it breaks. I have a ride on Sunday, and will test it thoroughly then too, on the road.
So to recap,
1. All Wifi's deleted in the cluster to prevent scans.
2. No VPN.
3. MFI or certified cable.
Fingers crossed. I will report back.
If this works, BRP owes me money here.
amkrat
Member
Your comment about your wife's iPhone 13 Mini has me concerned. That's what I have. Mine works fine most of the time but is prone to occasionally freezing up. Is there something about this particular model that might be a connectivity issue? What about ios 26? Shortly after upgrading it froze requiring several restarts to get it working again. I now have ios 26.0.1 but haven't gone for a ride yet to test it.Here is my story with Carplay crashing, and even crashed the whole cluster while riding.
Also like all of you, I've experienced almost all of your issues.
I tried a lot of things. Sorry if I am very technical and IT related here. I'm in IT
- My Sequence: Turn key to on, don't start the bike yet. Let your headsets connect to bike (all headsets if you have two). Then connect phone, wait for Carplay. Start bike.
- My checks:
F3 Limited 2024.
iPhone 16 Pro, iOS 26.
BRP Software 710011541 (global firmware). CSS 6.0.10092. Bootloader 1.9.0.
Cardos Packtalk Pros for headsets paired to bike only, not the phone.
No VPN ON (I confirmed this one breaks the connection). For this, I made an automation in iOS to turn off the VPN when Carplay starts, and reverts back to ON when not using Carplay.
Certified or original cable from Apple, or an MFI (Made for iPhone) cable. I use a nimble 2.4ft braided (Powerknit Flex) cable, and metal connectors.
I also tested with my wife's iPhone 13 mini, and it froze at the moment Carplay started.
All tests are made connected to a Noco Genius 5 to prevent battery discharge issues.
Possible solution here:
- The one major thing I need to confirm because this fixed my unstable issues, even in the garage: I found today if you have Wifi networks configured in the bike, it will try to reach them, or scan them to connect, and at this time, your bluetooth will also break on the driver's helmet, which so forth crashes Carplay, because it needs the driver headset to be connected.
I tested this twenty times in the garage this morning, turning off the key and starting from scratch. I also tested by not respecting the sequence, like leaving the phone connected, turning off bike, turning on the bike, or like plugging it in mid boot of the cluster, and it won't affect or freeze Carplay!!! Once the headsets connects to bike, Carplay starts like butter and stays alive. This is also very nice, within under 10 seconds of turning the key.
I will get the bike connected to a charger this afternoon, and play some music for a while to see if it breaks. I have a ride on Sunday, and will test it thoroughly then too, on the road.
So to recap,
1. All Wifi's deleted in the cluster to prevent scans.
2. No VPN.
3. MFI or certified cable.
Fingers crossed. I will report back.
If this works, BRP owes me money here.
Maybe it is time for a iPhone upgrade.
racoon
Well-known member
So I've been here in Maggie Valley, NC at the Maggie Valley Spyder Adventures event since Monday.
Other than one location we went to that was located in a valley with limited cell service, Apple CarPlay has worked perfectly.
I even used it to navigate to the next town over to pick up something I forgot to pack, and then to get me back.
Tomorrow morning I'll head home, and I used mymaps.google.com to plot a route home that avoids the interstate, as there are still road issues due to the hurricane. The NC DOT website says the worst section is down to a single lane of traffic in each direction with speeds limited to 35 mph. Normally that section of freeway would be two lanes in each direction with speed limits of 65 or 70 mph.
The route I plotted has been sent to my iPhone, so when I plug it into my Spyder in the morning it will be direct me away from the damaged interstate. It should take me about 5 hours of riding to get home, so probably 6 hours total with stops for a meal and fuel.
Other than one location we went to that was located in a valley with limited cell service, Apple CarPlay has worked perfectly.
I even used it to navigate to the next town over to pick up something I forgot to pack, and then to get me back.
Tomorrow morning I'll head home, and I used mymaps.google.com to plot a route home that avoids the interstate, as there are still road issues due to the hurricane. The NC DOT website says the worst section is down to a single lane of traffic in each direction with speeds limited to 35 mph. Normally that section of freeway would be two lanes in each direction with speed limits of 65 or 70 mph.
The route I plotted has been sent to my iPhone, so when I plug it into my Spyder in the morning it will be direct me away from the damaged interstate. It should take me about 5 hours of riding to get home, so probably 6 hours total with stops for a meal and fuel.
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