• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Break Noise

Bootie

New member
I have studied the break noise problem on my RT and I think I have arrived at a solution as to where the noise is coming from.:lecturef_smilie:

The rotors have a series of holes in them. When the wheel turns, the break-pads pass over the holes and close the holes up. In doing so, they compress the air, inside the hole, a little. When the wheel turns a little farther, the holes become uncovered and the compressed air pops out. This rapid evacuation of the chamber produces a "chirp" or more precisely a "Damped Sinusoid" at a particular frequency. The frequency of this chirp is determined by the Mass of the Air and the Volume of the hole (Compliance). The chirp frequency is, therefore, constant and does not change with rotational velocity. What DOES change with rotational velocity is the pulse-repitition-rate. At higher speeds you get more chirps per second even though the frequency of the chirp remains constant. As you slow down (with continued breaking) the chirps get farther and farther apart and eventually quit because the uncovering of the holes is much slower.

The reason this occurs is because the closing and opening of the holes is rather abrupt, like an impulse or step-function. The way to eliminate this problem would be to uncover the holes more slowly. One might accomplish this by beveling the pads a little or by making the pads somewhat permiable to air.

At any rate, I don't think it's worth worrying about.:D

My $0.02:lecturef_smilie:
 
This is a common occurrence with ventilated rotors. It is normally a subdued sound, and should not be confused with the more obnoxious "brake squeal". The latter can often be resolved or lessened.
 
:hun::dontknow: What'd he say ??? :dontknow::hun: :roflblack: :roflblack: :roflblack: :joke:

I think he said that he is going to put two pennies on his brake pads.
I am not sure how this will stop them from "breaking gas", but I took it all as a warning not to ride behind him. Sounded sensible, I am OK with that.

Tom
 
I think he said that he is going to put two pennies on his brake pads.
I am not sure how this will stop them from "breaking gas", but I took it all as a warning not to ride behind him. Sounded sensible, I am OK with that.

Tom
Tom, you should be so lucky to ride behind me.:doorag: My stuff doesn't stink, it's like a breath of fresh air.:D Your suggestion might work, though.:lecturef_smilie: That is, take a bunch of pennies, melt them, and use the melted metal to fill up the holes in your rotor. Then break-in the modified rotor by running through water while applying hard braking. If you live near the ocean, run your vehicle through the salt water so that the salt and sand will help to smooth out the surface. Don't worry about the corrosion, your brakes will be silent.:p

Or you could not do anything and live with it.;)
 
Last edited:
At any rate, I don't think it's worth worrying about.:D

My $0.02:lecturef_smilie:

I don't know but when somebody says don't worry':yikes: That's just about the time i start worrying :ohyea:Kind of like don't worry that Dog won't bite :D
 
I have studied the break noise problem on my RT and I think I have arrived at a solution as to where the noise is coming from.:lecturef_smilie:

The rotors have a series of holes in them. When the wheel turns, the break-pads pass over the holes and close the holes up. In doing so, they compress the air, inside the hole, a little. When the wheel turns a little farther, the holes become uncovered and the compressed air pops out. This rapid evacuation of the chamber produces a "chirp" or more precisely a "Damped Sinusoid" at a particular frequency. The frequency of this chirp is determined by the Mass of the Air and the Volume of the hole (Compliance). The chirp frequency is, therefore, constant and does not change with rotational velocity. What DOES change with rotational velocity is the pulse-repitition-rate. At higher speeds you get more chirps per second even though the frequency of the chirp remains constant. As you slow down (with continued breaking) the chirps get farther and farther apart and eventually quit because the uncovering of the holes is much slower.

The reason this occurs is because the closing and opening of the holes is rather abrupt, like an impulse or step-function. The way to eliminate this problem would be to uncover the holes more slowly. One might accomplish this by beveling the pads a little or by making the pads somewhat permiable to air.

At any rate, I don't think it's worth worrying about.:D

My $0.02:lecturef_smilie:


I think you mean 'brake' noise...unless you're constantly 'breaking' things...
 
CRC De Squeak is your friend.


Be VERY careful using that product. It's like a silver paint when it comes out and will basically 'paint' other parts of your Spyder. Best to use a rag to wipe it on.

Also---- your stopping power will be reduced to darn near NOTHING for the first 10-20 uses of the brakes--- so be careful!
 
My spyder is new and the brakes squeal when you apply them. Is that normal?

This is certainly not a "technical" solution but when my bike was new and my brakes had that obnoxious squeak I found that riding it like you stole it and then waiting to do the equivalent of a Spyder "stoppie" quickly eliminated the noise...don't know if it "broke them in" or just trained them through behavior modification that I didn't like the noise :dontknow: but I've not had that problem since.
 
Tom, you should be so lucky to ride behind me.:doorag: My stuff doesn't stink, it's like a breath of fresh air.:D Your suggestion might work, though.:lecturef_smilie: That is, take a bunch of pennies, melt them, and use the melted metal to fill up the holes in your rotor. Then break-in the modified rotor by running through water while applying hard braking. If you live near the ocean, run your vehicle through the salt water so that the salt and sand will help to smooth out the surface. Don't worry about the corrosion, your brakes will be silent.:p

Or you could not do anything and live with it.;)

No oceans around here, but I guess I could head out to the Salt Flats.

Bootie, you sound like you have too much time on your hands, melting down pennies and plugging your brake rotors. Being from Michigan, my family always warned me about those Buckeyes over the border, I never believed them. But then, I met some. I guess some things never change. :D

My brakes are fine. Occasionally, the dust will cake up and rub the disc causing a squeal, but that is easy enough to get off. What you are writing about must be some unique feature of the RT-S.

Tom
 
No oceans around here, but I guess I could head out to the Salt Flats.

Bootie, you sound like you have too much time on your hands, melting down pennies and plugging your brake rotors. Being from Michigan, my family always warned me about those Buckeyes over the border, I never believed them. But then, I met some. I guess some things never change. :D

My brakes are fine. Occasionally, the dust will cake up and rub the disc causing a squeal, but that is easy enough to get off. What you are writing about must be some unique feature of the RT-S.

Tom
Tom, I never said I did that. I was just saying you could try that if you wanted to..NOT.:yikes: My BMW did the same thing. The noise from ventilated rotors is different from brake squeal or squeak.
 
\
Yes and no, A lot of Spyders brakes squeal. MINE DO.
There are a lot of ways to stop the squealing but most are temporary.
I use CRC De SQUEAK it seems to work. :pray:

:agree:
I put it on about once a month, depending on the amount of riding I do. Works great for me. The overspray is like silver grease, but cleans off. Brake hard a few times right after applying and the brakes will be fine. I got it at AutoZone, even though they didn't know they had it.

Be Safe
 
CRC

Be VERY careful using that product. It's like a silver paint when it comes out and will basically 'paint' other parts of your Spyder. Best to use a rag to wipe it on.

Also---- your stopping power will be reduced to darn near NOTHING for the first 10-20 uses of the brakes--- so be careful!


It's like any spray if your not careful it will get all over, but i didn't have that problem, Besides if i was worried about getting the bike a little dirty and still get the squeal i would leave it in my garage and not ride.

Also i found i only needed 3 or 4 [controlled] stops on my driveway to have full stopping power. At no time were they reduced to be a danger.
But like you said i would advise people to be careful .
 
Did you remove the pads to apply or with everything still on? If while on, do you just spray between the pads and rotors?:helpsmilie:


Be VERY careful using that product. It's like a silver paint when it comes out and will basically 'paint' other parts of your Spyder. Best to use a rag to wipe it on.

Also---- your stopping power will be reduced to darn near NOTHING for the first 10-20 uses of the brakes--- so be careful!
 
Did you remove the pads to apply or with everything still on? If while on, do you just spray between the pads and rotors?:helpsmilie:

I didn't remove the pads, I Took off the front wheels and sprayed the rotors as i spun them. [spray both sides] The rear i left on' i used a Rollastand to spin the tire and VERY carefully sprayed.
I do things the EZ way. If i need a challenge i would go by the book.
Hey what ever floats your boat.:D
 
pads defectve

Hi... had 2008 spyder that drove me crazy with brake squeel.... tried all sorts of remedies, including shop sanding/bevelling pad.... finally convinced brp that assembly line products can often have defective material/parts... they replaced the pads and fixed the probem.... It doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out that only a few of the thousand being sold have this problem. Patiently waiting for my new 2010 rt to come in... trust me at 30k+ I will not accept any brake squeel.
PS.... took me about 2 mo of frustration before it got fixed.
 
Back
Top