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Brake Malfunction warning?
- Thread starter Michael211_2000
- Start date
Highwayman2013
New member
Bob Denman
New member
:shocked: Wow... I thought that I had stepped in it, "Big Time" this morning! :yikes:
Drew,
As I recall; you said that unhooking all of those sensors on your bike for a track day, didn't make it all that friendly when it was back on the street...
Or am I remembering something incorrectly? :dontknow:
Like it or not; if these bikes get about 6 drops low on brake fluid, they get upset... It's the nature of the Beast, and you either learn to live with it, or get a different bike.
And disconnecting sensors from a brake system; NEVER a good idea... for a plethora of good reasons! nojoke
Drew,
As I recall; you said that unhooking all of those sensors on your bike for a track day, didn't make it all that friendly when it was back on the street...
Or am I remembering something incorrectly? :dontknow:
Like it or not; if these bikes get about 6 drops low on brake fluid, they get upset... It's the nature of the Beast, and you either learn to live with it, or get a different bike.
And disconnecting sensors from a brake system; NEVER a good idea... for a plethora of good reasons! nojoke
Different sensors Bob.
The low brake fluid sensor has nothing to do with how the bike handles.
Having a sensor to monitor the brake fluid level is only necessary for those that rely on idiot lights to monitor fluid levels. It would be like having a low oil sensor, low clutch fluid sensor, low tire sensors, etc etc.
The brake system holds a lot of fluid in the reservoir and the lines down to the master are really long.
Brake fluid loss is either immediate or very slow. Immediate loss of fluid the idiot light isn't going to help, and the very slow loss of fluid "should" be checked either visually by drops on the garage floor or noticed by a periodic fluid check.
however, according to Mr bad ass Bronx cruiser joe, I'm wrong all the time, so people should do whatever works for them.
The people that understand the system, and how it works, are the people who get it. The others can feel safe having the brake fluid topped off to the max, idiot light/message off, and wonder whether the fluid weeping from the caps is going drip down onto the frame and ruin the frame.
Best of luck everyone![emoji106]
Dan McNally
New member
. . . and it takes quite a while to get even a little low on brake fluid . . . I had the first issue as I was nearing the 10,000 mile mark . . . added a tiny bit of fluid and it hasn't happened again, yet.
Of all the things to worry about in life, this warning isn't one of them . . . if I get it once a year and it goes away with a tiny bit of fluid, who cares.
As for name calling, it seems to be on the rise, here, and certainly indicates a lack of maturity . . . the emotional kind, not the age-related version. I stopped calling others names when I was in elementary school . . .nojoke
Of all the things to worry about in life, this warning isn't one of them . . . if I get it once a year and it goes away with a tiny bit of fluid, who cares.
As for name calling, it seems to be on the rise, here, and certainly indicates a lack of maturity . . . the emotional kind, not the age-related version. I stopped calling others names when I was in elementary school . . .nojoke
bikeguy
New member
Believe it or not, all this "discussion" is a good reason to check out Spyderlovers if you ride a Spyder. The first time the "brake failure" warning came on my 2010 RT, I was coming down the mountain just south of Sipapu, NM in a thick fog. That could have been really scary if I hadn't known, from reading Spyderlovers, that this could happen if the brake fluid was the slightest bit low. I did check the brakes to be sure they felt good and then I concentrated on keeping my wife, who was on the back, from seeing the warning message when it came on. That would have meant stopping immediately when there was no reason to do so. Once down on the flats and into warmer weather, the failure warning stopped coming on. I probably put two teaspoons of fluid in the master cylinder after we got home.
By the way, it's not necessary to have a leak for the fluid level to get low enough to bring the warning on. As the brake pads wear, the system volume naturally enlarges and the same volume of fluid is no longer sufficient to completely fill the system. As DrewNJ said, the sensors are way too sensitive. I don't advocate disabling them, though. Just fill the reservoir, and the warnings go away. Better still, think of the warning as a good reason to check and, probably, replace your brake pads because, absent a fluid leak, the pads are probably worn enough to warrant replacing.
Cotton
By the way, it's not necessary to have a leak for the fluid level to get low enough to bring the warning on. As the brake pads wear, the system volume naturally enlarges and the same volume of fluid is no longer sufficient to completely fill the system. As DrewNJ said, the sensors are way too sensitive. I don't advocate disabling them, though. Just fill the reservoir, and the warnings go away. Better still, think of the warning as a good reason to check and, probably, replace your brake pads because, absent a fluid leak, the pads are probably worn enough to warrant replacing.
Cotton
Cruzr Joe
New member
:agree:, that was how i learned about the fluid being a little low, coming down a mountain in Hot Springs, I was very concerned, I now check my brake fluid as I check all the other fluids.
Cruzr joe
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
:agree: And then there is the famous Hatcher Pass downhill. Thirteen miles or so. Yee Haaaaaa! Have had brake failure about three times on that one. :yikes::yikes: :roflblack::roflblack:
Cruzr Joe
New member
Bob Denman
New member
:shocked: Three times??? :shocked:
I'd have quit on that run, a couple of passes earlier!
I'd have quit on that run, a couple of passes earlier!
ARtraveler
R.I.P. Dwayne
:shocked: Three times??? :shocked:
I'd have quit on that run, a couple of passes earlier!
Each time on a different occasion. Usually one of the maiden voyages of the season. Always ended up checking the brake fluid after one of those trips.
The first time it happened it was a bit scary. No way to go but down. I do let the gears ride me down rather than riding the brake. Second works just fine on the 1330 for Hatcher Pass.
The brakes were working fine on the level.
Last edited:
Bob Denman
New member
Come on crews or Jo. You can do better than that! [emoji8]
Again?...
Michael211_2000
New member
I'd really appreciate it if ya'll would take the pissin contest somewhere else... it's rude to hijack a thread like this guys. :lecturef_smilie:
I think everyone is missing my point... in order to keep the brake fluid level sensors happy I'm having to fill it up to a level where brake fluid is oozing out under the caps when large temperature swings occur (30's the other evening, 60's today for example). Brake fluid is highly corrosive once it's exposed to open air, and VERY flammable... I'm becoming concerned what the fluid may be doing to the frame of the Spyder inside the body panels (it's clearly on my rear coil and shock already), and that it could cause a fire since it appears at least a few drops have reached the exhaust pipes under the body of my RS now! Start yours up and let it idle for 5 or 6 minutes on a calm afternoon and see if it starts to smoke from underneath... bet there's brake fluid on your pipes too if it smokes.
I've nothing against regularly checking and adjusting the fluid levels as needed, and I am not a fan of disconnecting safety systems... but I do not want the frame corroding and possibly failing "down the road", nor a fire ever!
Clearly the sensors are triggered when there is still far and away plenty of fluid in the reservoirs... I've no doubt it's still safe to drive in spite of the "Brake Failure" warning coming on. At least, until a line somewhere ruptures and ALL the fluid spills out while on a ride and I press the brake pedal and get NOTHING! That's what the sensors should be there for, to let you know that you're REALLY loosing brake fluid... but they're pretty useless the way they are working (ie. "the boy who cried 'wolf'" scenario, once aware of this problem nobody really believes the "Brake Failure" message they get any longer).
So uhmmm... if there is no known good solution to this problem, how do we get the manufacturer to address it and make a fix available? It's my observation that the "Brake Failure" alarm goes off while the fluid levels are still well above the Min mark on the reservoirs on my 2012 RS, which is ridiculous. Apparently I'm not alone here it's not just my Spyder it's fairly common... :helpsmilie:
If my GMC truck was having a problem like this GM would be required to issue a recall and fix the bloody issue with a redesigned part! Does somebody have to get hurt or killed 1st because of this issue? :dontknow: Would prefer it not be me!
Me, I think I'm going to open up the rear body panels this weekend and check under the brake fluid reservoir and the frame and wiring in that area to see how much has gotten brake fluid on it already and try to wash it off at least for now. Maybe add another teaspoon of fluid to each reservoir again to keep those sensors "happy". This is not a solution though. Ughhhh! :banghead:
Thanks.
- Michael
I think everyone is missing my point... in order to keep the brake fluid level sensors happy I'm having to fill it up to a level where brake fluid is oozing out under the caps when large temperature swings occur (30's the other evening, 60's today for example). Brake fluid is highly corrosive once it's exposed to open air, and VERY flammable... I'm becoming concerned what the fluid may be doing to the frame of the Spyder inside the body panels (it's clearly on my rear coil and shock already), and that it could cause a fire since it appears at least a few drops have reached the exhaust pipes under the body of my RS now! Start yours up and let it idle for 5 or 6 minutes on a calm afternoon and see if it starts to smoke from underneath... bet there's brake fluid on your pipes too if it smokes.
I've nothing against regularly checking and adjusting the fluid levels as needed, and I am not a fan of disconnecting safety systems... but I do not want the frame corroding and possibly failing "down the road", nor a fire ever!
Clearly the sensors are triggered when there is still far and away plenty of fluid in the reservoirs... I've no doubt it's still safe to drive in spite of the "Brake Failure" warning coming on. At least, until a line somewhere ruptures and ALL the fluid spills out while on a ride and I press the brake pedal and get NOTHING! That's what the sensors should be there for, to let you know that you're REALLY loosing brake fluid... but they're pretty useless the way they are working (ie. "the boy who cried 'wolf'" scenario, once aware of this problem nobody really believes the "Brake Failure" message they get any longer).
So uhmmm... if there is no known good solution to this problem, how do we get the manufacturer to address it and make a fix available? It's my observation that the "Brake Failure" alarm goes off while the fluid levels are still well above the Min mark on the reservoirs on my 2012 RS, which is ridiculous. Apparently I'm not alone here it's not just my Spyder it's fairly common... :helpsmilie:
If my GMC truck was having a problem like this GM would be required to issue a recall and fix the bloody issue with a redesigned part! Does somebody have to get hurt or killed 1st because of this issue? :dontknow: Would prefer it not be me!
Me, I think I'm going to open up the rear body panels this weekend and check under the brake fluid reservoir and the frame and wiring in that area to see how much has gotten brake fluid on it already and try to wash it off at least for now. Maybe add another teaspoon of fluid to each reservoir again to keep those sensors "happy". This is not a solution though. Ughhhh! :banghead:
Thanks.
- Michael
Cruzr Joe
New member
Wyliec, i sent him that info in a PM, when i mentioned that to other folks they laughed ................... but it works. Thanks
Just like i tell folks with pre 14s that if the "O" ring on the dipstick keeps sliding off, take it off and turn it around. and it won't slip anymore. NON Scientific stuff that works.
Cruzr Joe
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