• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Brake fluid

UNDERSTANDING THE - - - ENGLISH LANGUAGE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Your presented 'real life experience' is in error. ... The only way it could be " in ERROR " is if it wasn't TRUE - are you saying I'm a Liar :yikes:..... The 12 year old fluid in your Toyota that you claim is 'fine' is not..... I NEVER said the fluid is/was FINE .... I said my BRAKES were FINE ( as in how they felt !!!!!!!............ Its contaminated and unsafe..... It probably is ...... You present this experience as an alternative view to the requirement of changing fluid every two years, ....I didn't present any such thing , this is ALL in your MIND !!!!!! ...... in fact My Spyders brake fluid was changed last year @ 24,267 miles !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Your intent was clear and its outright wrong and dangerous to suggest folks not change the fluid....WRONG again JC - my FIRST sentence in my post was - " I'M NOT EVEN SUGGESTING YOU DON'T CHANGE ( meaning brake fluid which is what the thread is about ) EVERY TWO YEARS" ...........:banghead: You not changing fluid in your Toyota is negligent and advertising it on a public forum....well.....Probably but - ADVERTISING - I don't see it that way, I stated an Experience
............ see above in RED type ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
Not wanting to enter into this discussion !

I'll admit to being a little perplexed here, but I'll tell my story in hopes I don't get shot over it. I'll refrain from responding further after this post.
2 years came and went on my 2014 RTL without me even thinking about changing brake fluid. I worried more about oil changes and the like, but because of my experience with cars I didn't think about this being an issue. Now it is going into 4 years and at 20,000 miles I finally changed the rear pads but the fronts are still around 50%. I got concerned and looked at flushing the fluids, however I didn't because of NOT seeing any appreciable change in color of the fluid. I'm looking right now at a bottle if Lipton Rasberry Ice Tea on my desk, and it is darker and more yellow than my brake fluid is. I do not see any darkening or specs in the fluid to concern me either. I don't recall even topping it off over these years - but don't know if the dealer did during any of the oil changes. I do know he didn't bleed the brakes at any time. To finish.....the brakes "seem" to work fine - even in a few panic stops I needed to make along the way. I will continue to keep an eye on this, but until I see a reason.....................

Like I said.....Just my story.
 
It is pretty much an industry standard, my other bikes also call for 2 years

That's to cover their butts......partly.

On a vehicle without ABS or stability control, I think that is WAY overkill.

On a vehicle WITH ABS and stability control, like Spyders with the "nanny", I think you should follow that recommendation......but no need to be paranoid about it.
 
Its absorbs water and becomes compressible.

Water is no more compressible than oil (brake fluid) unless it boils into steam.

And since the brake systems are supposed to be sealed........how does that water get IN there ??
Edit: I believe that you will find a flexible rubber diaphragm under that MS cap, which provides a seal (mostly) between the fluid and the atmosphere.

I am not trolling for a pointless argument here; that is a serious question.
 
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The caps on the master cylinder on my bike each have a vent that if not properly positioned, rearward when the cap is tightened, will ooze fluid onto onto the top of the reservoir as there are slits in the diaphrams. If properly oriented when tight will allow air into the reservoir.
 
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Water is no more compressible than oil (brake fluid) unless it boils into steam.

And since the brake systems are supposed to be sealed........how does that water get IN there ??
Edit: I believe that you will find a flexible rubber diaphragm under that MS cap, which provides a seal (mostly) between the fluid and the atmosphere.

I am not trolling for a pointless argument here; that is a serious question.


We read where the ethanol in gas will draw water, brake fluid does the same and very quickly. Brake systems are not sealed if there are any rubber lines in the system. Hard to believe but the moisture will get into the system through rubber lines and seals as they age. When my Spyder gets new braked fluid this year it will also get new stainless and teflon lines installed. I buy my line and fittings to make my own on my restorations and I will do the same on my Spyder. As far as the boiling part, lots of folks think they will never ride and brake hard enough to cause this problem. You need to realize that it doesn't take much to generate enough heat to vaporize the water in the brake system and even an "easy" rider can have it happen. I am amazed at how much $$$ folks will drop on seats, windshields, and other doo dads and then can't wait to show them off, but when it comes to maintaining the systems that keep us safe and on the road they are always looking for the cheapest way out or a way to extend the service intervals. That thousand dollar seat is gonna get awful messy when you jump on the brake pedal and nothing happens.
 
Yes I really do. Mine was changed out late and it was really ugly. I am on 2 years now and it is again looking ugly. DOT3 and DOT4 are hygroscopic,they attract water which makes them boil at a lower temperature with corresponding loss of brake power.
Good morning, I have a 2018 RT and the fluid is black, does it matter on what brand of dot 4 fluid I use? Xps is around 17 bucks a can...and options? Not looking for a cheap fix but anything comparable to xps ?
Thank you
Terry
 
Water as a pure liquid is not compressible. Water in suspension in glycol based brake fluid is VERY compressible. It traps microscopic air bubbles as well when it wet. They do not settle out.
 
Good morning, I have a 2018 RT and the fluid is black, does it matter on what brand of dot 4 fluid I use? Xps is around 17 bucks a can...and options? Not looking for a cheap fix but anything comparable to xps ?
Thank you
Terry

Any good name brand DOT4 fluid should be fine. We use Castrol.
 
All DOT4 is 'synthetic'. Just some market it that way and some do not. Boiling point is the more important number but lubrication is not. All name brand DOT4 is pretty good stuff.
 
XPS Brake Fluid

:coffee: I just purchased Cam Am XPS Dot 4 Brake Fluid from my Dealer (10/12/19). A 12 ounce bottle was only $10.99 + Tax.
YES, I could have purchased a different brand, but I like to give my Dealer business so they will be around down the road.....:thumbup:
 
Just finished changing the brake fluid on my 2015 that I purchased used in June of 2018. I do not know when it last was changed. The fluid was darkened, but not black like my 2014 RT was when I changed it after 3 years.
I was pleased to find that it was easier to do on the F3 than the RT.
 
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