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Brake failure...again and again
- Thread starter csmead
- Start date
vt228
New member
tell them to pull the parts off a new bike or give you a new one .:agree:
check the lines coming from master cylinder to brake calaper there must be a leak or the bleader is leaking while driveing .:gaah:
must be a sign of fluid leckage some where or the calper is freezing up not pushing on pads I would have them pull all 3 off and inspeck them take apart put to gether . if same thing happens replace all.:dontknow:
check the lines coming from master cylinder to brake calaper there must be a leak or the bleader is leaking while driveing .:gaah:
must be a sign of fluid leckage some where or the calper is freezing up not pushing on pads I would have them pull all 3 off and inspeck them take apart put to gether . if same thing happens replace all.:dontknow:
It's important to keep your parking brake adjusted whether you use it or not. The parking brake actuator is threaded into the rear caliper piston. As your rear brake pads wear, the parking brake adjustment loosens. If it's loose enough it starts pulling the piston back away from the rotor, causing the travel to increase on your regular brake pedal. I'm not sure if this is your problem, but it can be a contributing factor.
I've got 5000 miles on mine and have had to adjust it twice so far, and it's about ready for a 3rd adjustment.
Spanky
New member
Hi Spyryder,
I have to respectfully disagree with your conclusion. There is a mechanical stop that keeps the cable arm from rotating back too far. You can remove the parking brake cable and it would not affect the hydraulic braking. However the proper cable adjustment should leave the cable arm just 1-2mm from the stop.
When you run out of cable adjustment then you will need to remove the arm and reposition it. Still this does not allow any excess opening that will affect the hydraulic braking.
Best regards,
:doorag:
Hi Spanky,
that's interesting....the first time I only adjusted the cable...the second time I had to remove the arm and reposition it. Both times there was a noticeable difference in the regular brake pedal travel. Are you sure the piston wouldn't stay deeper in the bore if it were never adjusted? I'd like to try turning it back in just to see what happens, but I'd be afraid of getting a failure message.
what we all need to do is form a class action suit against BRP
We all need to get a common goal to resolve all of our product defects which can only get BRP attention by hiring a lawyer on a continence to form a class action law suit.
Do we have any ball washing lawyers in the spyder family.
We all need to get a common goal to resolve all of our product defects which can only get BRP attention by hiring a lawyer on a continence to form a class action law suit.
Do we have any ball washing lawyers in the spyder family.
Sorry, but my Spyder is fine thankyou! :f_spider:
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Spanky
New member
Next time you adjust the cable just look and you will see where the arm stop is located. Maybe it will make sense then.
I have about 8000 miles and my parking brake has needed adjustment for a long time. I don't really notice any excessive brake pedal. When I get a puller I will adjust the arm so I can have a parking brake again. I usually just leave it in gear. I will let you know how it turns out.
Spanky
New member
:agree:
I know the manual says to use a puller, but the arm comes off quite readily.....at least mine did.Next time you adjust the cable just look and you will see where the arm stop is located. Maybe it will make sense then.
I have about 8000 miles and my parking brake has needed adjustment for a long time. I don't really notice any excessive brake pedal. When I get a puller I will adjust the arm so I can have a parking brake again. I usually just leave it in gear. I will let you know how it turns out.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
+1 No sweat!I know the manual says to use a puller, but the arm comes off quite readily.....at least mine did.
-Scotty
GA-SPYDER
New member
No puller needed. Arm is splined and even though the service manual says to use a puller, mine sliped right off after taking the nut off.:thumbup:Next time you adjust the cable just look and you will see where the arm stop is located. Maybe it will make sense then.
I have about 8000 miles and my parking brake has needed adjustment for a long time. I don't really notice any excessive brake pedal. When I get a puller I will adjust the arm so I can have a parking brake again. I usually just leave it in gear. I will let you know how it turns out.
update on brake failure...
Spoke with the shop. Spyder is in pieces. BRP has assisted (remote link) and they have determined that the entire wiring harness is junk...also the Low Pressure Switch is bad and must be replaced. More bad news, parts will be overnighted but no guarantee that they will be here in time to leave for Hollywood. HOWEVER, Clawsons has agreed to loan me a Spyder IF they cannot have my Spyder ready to role by 6pm on Thursday. This is cutting it close, we are leaving in the morning and if any codes fault on the way home from Fresno, I am truely screwed. I did ask if they would just put it back together and I would return the bike after Hollywood and they refused...what's that about?
Spoke with the shop. Spyder is in pieces. BRP has assisted (remote link) and they have determined that the entire wiring harness is junk...also the Low Pressure Switch is bad and must be replaced. More bad news, parts will be overnighted but no guarantee that they will be here in time to leave for Hollywood. HOWEVER, Clawsons has agreed to loan me a Spyder IF they cannot have my Spyder ready to role by 6pm on Thursday. This is cutting it close, we are leaving in the morning and if any codes fault on the way home from Fresno, I am truely screwed. I did ask if they would just put it back together and I would return the bike after Hollywood and they refused...what's that about?
ataDude
Mod Maniac
I'm with you, Carol. I don't know if I would even start a trip with no "shake-down" on the fix. In addition to the brakes, they could cause other problems... wouldn't be the first time.
Personally, I'd tell them to take their time... fix it right... test it... repeatedly... and just use their loaner. A new wiring harness is a major deal. Everything has to be disconnected... and, hopefully... re-connected.
As far as putting it back together... liability would be HUGE if they knowingly gave you a bike back with a faulty braking system. Plus, BRP would only pay for one tear-down.
.
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Glad they have an idea what is wrong and are trying to expedite things. I'm not surprised that they wouldn't put it together and let it go with a serious brake issue. Too much liability. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
-Scotty
Ride it hard!! :f_spider:
AMTJIM
New member
Man, this sounds exactly like mine...That I can remember, I have had 3 VCMs, a GPS, a Yaw Sensor, and 1 entire wire harness change. I would not let them rush, your going to end up with mistakes and in-shop damage. My plastics are showing wear & tear to include tool marks, on the paint, scratched muffler ect. from all the times it's been taken apart/ parts laying around the shop and a naked spyder in the yard. My stuff was rushed from Canada too and it took more than a few days just to arrive. About 2 days to install the harness and it failed...the final thing the tech did that made the problem go away was switch it on and off several times. I know from all the posts I have read, bad harnesses have been found by techs and accessory installers. Some wired backwards, some poor connections. There is still a good chance components on your machine may be damaged from ESD, incorrect voltage or crossed polarity. Hence my 3 VCMs, I still don't think mine is fixed...it sits waiting in the garage.
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NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
My concerns are more that they are still on the wrong track. I can see no way that bad wiring can make a hydraulic system lose pressure, so you end up with no brake pedal. It could affect braking force, the ABS system, electronic brake distribution, or fault messages, but bad sensors and lousy wiring won't make the brakes need to be pumped up, or make you lose brake pedal. I agree with AMTJim, be very cautiuos on this one!
-Scotty
-Scotty
:agree:.... so easy to wire one or few of them backwards unless you know exactly what you are doing. Don't trust those kids working in the shop. That's why I prefer to do most of the work my self. Save money and hassell.
You are all correct that we are concerned that the shop will accidently botch the wiring. Especially since there is a timing/pressure issue to avoid loaning me a Spyder (for the trip to Hollywood). We originally told them we would pick up the bike Thurs. morning. Since they are requesting to have the entire Thursday to work on it, we have lost an entire day of trip preparation, including changing the back tire (bought a new tires because service dept. insisted that all the tires needed replaced, changed the front ones first). We will have to hope for the best and leave early Friday morning. Of course, I would like to have my bike, with my zeon headlights, and other mods. But I think that taking a loaner would be a compromise that I could live with, considering the bike has been in the shop more than 3 times for the same issue and I have $$ (lost work hrs, lost vacation pay, etc) out on this trip
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