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Boiling Fuel.....

smartin436

New member
Hi fellow Spyderlovers,
Heidi and I were out running around on our spyder today and we ran across another spyder rider on a 2011 viper red RT. We stopped and talked for a while and he said that after about 40 mins of riding, when he shut his spyder off, the fuel would boil in the tank and that fuel would actually drip out of the hose that vents the carbon canister.
He had it at a dealer for a month and they had no idea what to do.
Any idea's?????

I invited him to look up spyderlovers and join too....
 
Park it and do NOT ride unless you are into serious pyrotechnics. That's freaking weird (???)
 
Our 2011 RTS SM5 is a fuel boiler too. Wrapping the exhaust is one thing some have done the idea being to keep the heat in and away from the tank, and everything else within the confines of the body panels, so it exits the exhaust where it should. I opted to ceramic coat ours including the cat. Exhaust note sounds a little different but the fuel still boils when there is little in the tank which is somewhat of an improvement than before. Next will be to apply thermal reflective material to ALL of the tank.

To their credit BRP applied said material to the tank in areas adjacent to the exhaust, as well as using double walled headers. Just isn't enough though when you consider the unprotected part of the tank is in the oven too. It'll be interesting when summer gets here.
 
Our 2011 RTS SM5 is a fuel boiler too. Wrapping the exhaust is one thing some have done the idea being to keep the heat in and away from the tank, and everything else within the confines of the body panels, so it exits the exhaust where it should. I opted to ceramic coat ours including the cat. Exhaust note sounds a little different but the fuel still boils when there is little in the tank which is somewhat of an improvement than before. Next will be to apply thermal reflective material to ALL of the tank.

To their credit BRP applied said material to the tank in areas adjacent to the exhaust, as well as using double walled headers. Just isn't enough though when you consider the unprotected part of the tank is in the oven too. It'll be interesting when summer gets here.

Good suggestions even if your gasoline is not boiling. I've wrapped my exhaust pipes from the head to the Y pipe and it made a world of difference in the amount of heat under the tupperware.
 
Good suggestions even if your gasoline is not boiling. I've wrapped my exhaust pipes from the head to the Y pipe and it made a world of difference in the amount of heat under the tupperware.

You wouldn't happen to have a kit put together for this, have you ?
 
There was a time in manufacturing when an engineer could walk down to the production floor and take a look at how things were going, just to make sure all was okay. The flip side of that coin was that the guy doing the work could call the engineer out if something didn't look quite "right" and their process needed to be tweaked a bit to make things perfect.
Through the miracle work of MBAs and economists, the production work has now been globalized and spread all over creation seeking labor savings and efficiency to maximize profits. The engineer is now 3000 miles from the production floor which is owned by a vendor who doesn't care about anything not included in the contract or drawings and he doesn't even speak the same language as the assembler.
 
There was a time in manufacturing when an engineer could walk down to the production floor and take a look at how things were going, just to make sure all was okay. The flip side of that coin was that the guy doing the work could call the engineer out if something didn't look quite "right" and their process needed to be tweaked a bit to make things perfect.
Through the miracle work of MBAs and economists, the production work has now been globalized and spread all over creation seeking labor savings and efficiency to maximize profits. The engineer is now 3000 miles from the production floor which is owned by a vendor who doesn't care about anything not included in the contract or drawings and he doesn't even speak the same language as the assembler.

Very well put! However with my 2010 RT SE5 I haven't had that problem.
 
Boiling Fuel

You wouldn't happen to have a kit put together for this, have you ?


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I forgot to mention that he has wrapped the exhaust.........Could this possibly be a stopped up convertor???? How would they check for that???
 
.....I opted to ceramic coat ours including the cat. Exhaust note sounds a little different but the fuel still boils when there is little in the tank which is somewhat of an improvement than before. Next will be to apply thermal reflective material to ALL of the tank.
I wonder if anyone has ever ceramic coated a gas tank, itself? That could help by reflecting the heat away...in my mind, at least.

The differences between Spyders could lie in the gasoline itself. Gasoline is a mixture of compounds, and the ethanol content varies. Various gasolines have boiling points ranging from 100-400 degrees F. That is a wide range, sometimes withing the range of ambient temperatures alone. The boiling point of ethanol is 179 degrees F, which isn't a lot when your water and oil temperatures run well above that. Fuel has been known to boil in virtually all motorcycle gas tanks at one time or another. Their position above the engine makes it easy to reach the boiling point. Having it exposed directly to the sun doesn't help, either. Enclosing the tank and engine in a fairing can make things hotter. If you happen to be running a more volatile gasoline mixture, it will boil easier. If the fuel level is low, it will boil easier. We can't change physics, we can only modify and slow down (or speed up) the effects.
 
I did not see it anywhere, but could have missed it. Try changing brands/grades of fuel.
Many years ago, I rode a souped up BSA Gold Star. Our Gold Stars and Triumph Bonnys would not run on Gulf brand gasoline. Velo's, Zundapp, Vincent and others ran fine. That was a long time ago. Anybody remember them ?
Oldmanzues
 
Bought my RT June of 11 ... longest, hottest summer for a loooong time. Haven't had this problem ... run it in the garage, close the door, no gas odor. I use a name brand premium.

tnx,hawk

PS ... only mods are LED turn arrows added to the mirrors and a handle-bar mount for my iPod.
 
Bought my RT June of 11 ... longest, hottest summer for a loooong time. Haven't had this problem ... run it in the garage, close the door, no gas odor. I use a name brand premium.

QUOTE]

It's just the way it is with the Spider, I don't know if it's at the factory or at the dealers, but it seems that no two Spiders are put together [assembled] exactly the same. Some will have a gas odor and most will not.
Same with the DPS a while back, Like Forrest Gump said, Sometimes you never know what you're gonna get.
 
BOILING OVER

I HAD NOT CONSIDERED THIS AS A POSSIBILITY, I WAS CONCERNED WITH THE GAS TANK OVER-FILL AND CONTAMINATING THE CHARCOL CANISTER...SO I BOUGHT A PLATIC " T " FITTING AND CUT THE OVERFLOW LINE THAT GOES FROM THE GAS TANK TO THE CHARCOL CANNISTER ( IT'S ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE ) THE PIECE I CUT OFF I ATTACHED ON THE TOP OF THE T AND WENT TO THE CANNISTER...THEN I BOUGHT A MUCH LONGER PIECE AND ATTACHED IT TO THE BOTTOM PART OF THE T AND ROUTED IT SAFELY AWAY FROM ANY HOT AREA'S...NOW IF I GET AN OVERFLOW IT WON'T GO INTO THE CANNISTER OR ANYWHERE ELSE DANGEROUS...THIS WOULD ALSO TAKE CARE OF ANY BOIL OVER'S....IF I EVER FIGURE OUT HOW TO POST I'LL GIVE PICTURES....THE FIX IS REALLY EASY..MIKE..
 
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I know this off topic but, I tend to fill my tank untill it can't hold any more and smell not fuel but like I cant descibe it , just an odor. If I just fill till the pump shuts off I dont smell anything.
 
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