Bleeding Brake fluid output ?

[Briorick]

Morning All,

I just recently changed Rotors and Brakes and bled the brakes. Super easy task! All went well, braking is great.

My question is.....from seeing videos of others brake bleeding, and from my own experience of bleeding my auto brakes in the past, I am wondering why I'm not getting as much old fluid out as I see in the videos. I get minimal trickles at most. Even after numerous attempts of brake pumping, opening and closing bleeder valve, brakes are firm but still seems like only a trickle flows out. Do I need to more aggressive with my bleeding to clear the lines?

I'm not sure when the last brake fluid flush was done by previous owners, and I do have 49k miles on it.

Looking for your input. Thanks in advance.

 

[Lew L]

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Speedbleeders make this job so easy. Just be sure to keep the reservoir full.

LewL

 

[Briorick]

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Speedbleeders make this job so easy. Just be sure to keep the reservoir full.

LewL

I'm sure they do, but I don't mind doing it the old fashioned way. It really takes no time at all IMO. Gives me time to also check other components as well.

 

[BertRemington]

Briorick -- based on the age and unknown history of your Spyder plus the possibility of riding in a moist environment, I think there is a concern, but not a danger, your caliper pistons and maybe master cylinders might (emphasis might) be sticking due to corrosion. Another possibility is the caliper pistons might not be fully retracting due to old seals.

At this point, if the wheels turn without much scraping between the pads and rotors, ride for a few weeks with the new fluid and then repeat a complete master cylinders and caliper pistons flush. It would be best to use an unopened can of brake fluid for the second flush (I use ATE 200) just to ensure no moisture enters the system. Then report back to us.

BTW I use a vacuum pump to empty the reservoirs and fill with fresh fluid before beginning the flush. And a week before I did my flush I did a lazy-man's flush of emptying and refilling the reservoirs to dilute the old fluid in the brake lines and anti-lock (which I haven't bled).

 

[Briorick]

Briorick -- based on the age and unknown history of your Spyder plus the possibility of riding in a moist environment, I think there is a concern, but not a danger, your caliper pistons and maybe master cylinders might (emphasis might) be sticking due to corrosion. Another possibility is the caliper pistons might not be fully retracting due to old seals.

At this point, if the wheels turn without much scraping between the pads and rotors, ride for a few weeks with the new fluid and then repeat a complete master cylinders and caliper pistons flush. It would be best to use an unopened can of brake fluid for the second flush (I use ATE 200) just to ensure no moisture enters the system. Then report back to us.

BTW I use a vacuum pump to empty the reservoirs and fill with fresh fluid before beginning the flush. And a week before I did my flush I did a lazy-man's flush of emptying and refilling the reservoirs to dilute the old fluid in the brake lines and anti-lock (which I haven't bled).

Thanks Bert. I like that we are on the same wave lengths here. Before changing my Rotors and Brakes I did have a minute brake scraping. That's what lead me to think I had warped rotors. I checked both rotors using the flat table top glass method, so I know they were warped a bit at that point.

When I changed the Rotors and Brakes, after completing the job, I just took it out and did the brake bedding procedure and still a little noticeable scraping sound. I figured it was because of everything being new and needing broken in. But, I didn't stop there. I went ahead and removed the calipers again, inspected them, and gave them both a deep cleaning with some cleaning solution. Then re-installed and re-bled them again. Nice stiff brake pedal...and stopping power is great :thumbup: It just didn't seem like the fluid wants to come out as a stream, instead it trickles. May be due to old fluid, but the reservoir fluid was clean.

UPDATE: This morning took it out for a ride. No scraping sounds. It tracked straight down the road, no vibrations. Music to my ears.


I too was thinking of a possible sticking Caliper. It has me on alert now, so I will definitely being keeping tabs on these and perform another fluid flush. Maybe new fluid is all it needs. Also checked for leakage........Nothing! :2thumbs:

I have also been checking out Vacuum Pumps since this project began. Definitely another gadget for the "needed list"!


Thanks again for your posting. Much appreciate your input and suggestions.

 

[Mikey]

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Speedbleeders make this job so easy. Just be sure to keep the reservoir full.

LewL

Once you try them once you will have them on everything in the dooryard!!!:agree::agree:

 

[K80Shooter]

Just a thought, maybe the bleeder's have dirt/mud in them :dontknow: Try using a drill bit that just barely will fit into the hole and rotate it by hand to clean it out. It wouldn't take long to try this.

 

[Briorick]

Just a thought, maybe the bleeder's have dirt/mud in them :dontknow: Try using a drill bit that just barely will fit into the hole and rotate it by hand to clean it out. It wouldn't take long to try this.

That is a great thought! Thank you!
Never thought of this considering they have rubber caps. But even then its possible they can accumulate crud, as you suggested, and hinder good flow.

On my to-do list.

 

[Jetfixer]

There is no way to flush/bleed the anti-lock unit without using BUDS to activate it.

 

[PMK]

There is no way to flush/bleed the anti-lock unit without using BUDS to activate it.

If that is the case, what does the bleeder fitting on the anti-lock brake unit accomplish.

 

[EdMat]

If that is the case, what does the bleeder fitting on the anti-lock brake unit accomplish.

Nothing, unless you hook it up to B?UDS and let it run its bleed cycle on it while it is open.

 

[Briorick]

Just a thought, maybe the bleeder's have dirt/mud in them :dontknow: Try using a drill bit that just barely will fit into the hole and rotate it by hand to clean it out. It wouldn't take long to try this.

Update: Thanks for the suggestion. I did go out and do as you suggested for both sides and then re-bled again. I thought I felt a little bit of resistance in the right hand bleeder. Pedal even felt a bit more stiffer too. Makes me wonder if there is some obstruction, corrosion, etc., in the bleeders themselves. May be time for a set of Speedbleeders. Thanks again for your suggestion.

 

[PMK]

Nothing, unless you hook it up to B?UDS and let it run its bleed cycle on it while it is open.

Interesting reply. Years ago, when I first flushed and bled the brakes in our 2014 RTS, and even the second time I flushed and bled the brakes in our RTS, neither time did I use BUDS, but was able to flush and bleed the anti lock brake unit via the bleeder upon it.

Granted, I did not actuate the internals of the anti lock brake unit, so it was not flushed and bled 100%. However, per the service manual, all tasks are to manually flush and bleed without BUDS, until the final step of using BUDS to activate the anti lock unit and accomplish a final bleed of the anti lock unit only.

Now having BUDS and BUDS2, my next flush and bleed will also include fully flushing / bleeding the anti lock unit. It should be mentioned though that my two previous flush and bleeds without BUDS were far superior to the oem initial service.

 

[davev1pa]

I've flushed a 2012 with speedbleeders and no buds...yeah I got all the fluid thru the system no issue there...It's not 100% exchanged but I'm happier....on my 14 RTS the braking is far superior to the 12 (Brembo)....I think there are good reasons to use BUDS but I'd say ur fine w/o unless you run into problems for a simple flush thats likely roughly 90% new fluid.