Does it cost this much for Brake fluid change from dealership?

[Isopedella]

You dont absolutely need speed bleeders or any type of pump.

If you can find someone to operate the brake and keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level you dont absolutely need speed bleeders.

Bit of tubing and a jar . A big syringe is helpful to suck out all the old fluid in the master cyl, or you could siphon it with the tubing I guess.

Someone asked for the bleeding sequence.

The answer supplied was....
B left, right, rear. :dontknow:

Rule of thumb, you bleed the furthermost from the slave cyl first. Keep pumping it until you have fresh, clean and clear fluid. Then work forwards.

I have no idea what B left, right, rear. is code for.

 

[Gwolf]

You dont absolutely need speed bleeders or any type of pump.

If you can find someone to operate the brake and keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level you dont absolutely need speed bleeders.

Bit of tubing and a jar . A big syringe is helpful to suck out all the old fluid in the master cyl, or you could siphon it with the tubing I guess.

Someone asked for the bleeding sequence.

The answer supplied was....
B left, right, rear. :dontknow:

Rule of thumb, you bleed the furthermost from the slave cyl first. Keep pumping it until you have fresh, clean and clear fluid. Then work forwards.

I have no idea what B left, right, rear. is code for.

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines and the brake cylinders. If you pull the old fluid out of the master cylinder, how does that ever purge the old fluid from the brake lines?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

 

[Isopedella]

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines

Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.

 

[Steve W.]

... That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.

You have to be careful with the term "best". Some will insist that the best brake fluid is DOT5 because it's a higher number than DOT3 or DOT4. The problem is that DOT5 is NOT compatible, and should not be used.

I have not looked to see if the Spyder requires DOT4 instead of DOT3, but you can safely use DOT4 when DOT3 is called for.

.

 

[Gwolf]

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines

Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.

I guess you could do it like that. I just pull it through the lines with a small, hand vacuum pump. Never leave the shop stool side of the master cylinder. Never have to pump the brakes. It takes about 15 minutes, and all done. Speed bleeders are the easiest way. Even if you pump or siphon the old fluid from the master cylinder, you are still having to move it, and emptying the master cylinder is another chance for air bubbles to get in the brake lines. That is one reason I pull the old fluid out and never let the master cylinder get less than about half full. Trying to purge air from lines that have high loops in them is worse than changing the fluid. The vacuum pump and the speed bleeders can prevent any air bubbles from ever entering the system. Brake pressure will be rock solid first time you step on the pedal.

Everybody can do it their own way. I just find the speed bleeders and the little hand vacuum pump easier.

 

[Isopedella]

Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.

I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?

Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines

Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?

You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?

Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.

I guess you could do it like that. I just pull it through the lines with a small, hand vacuum pump. Never leave the shop stool side of the master cylinder. Never have to pump the brakes. It takes about 15 minutes, and all done. Speed bleeders are the easiest way. Even if you pump or siphon the old fluid from the master cylinder, you are still having to move it, and emptying the master cylinder is another chance for air bubbles to get in the brake lines. That is one reason I pull the old fluid out and never let the master cylinder get less than about half full. Trying to purge air from lines that have high loops in them is worse than changing the fluid. The vacuum pump and the speed bleeders can prevent any air bubbles from ever entering the system. Brake pressure will be rock solid first time you step on the pedal.

Everybody can do it their own way. I just find the speed bleeders and the little hand vacuum pump easier.

Ok. Got it now.

Your using speed bleeders and a pump.

The post you seem to be taking me to task on reads .....the first line.


You dont absolutely need speed bleeders or any type of pump. .

Which you are using, by choice.

Moving on.

 

[Isopedella]

A little bird informs me that when the dealers enter the brake flush onto their computer it comes up with a ridiculously excessive long time to do the job.

Which is hopelessly incorrect.

No common sense seems to apply and the dealers should know it wont take 6 hrs.
Yet they seem to be happy to quote and charge customers the computer time/ price.

 

[BrianO]

I don't remember where I read this, but I believe BRP recommends flushing the system twice with BUDs.
My mechanic (BRP trained but now independent) used BRPs method and used just over 4 bottles of fluid.
I discussed with him the necessity of doing it BRP's way vs the above suggestions, he told me he has replaced several anti-lock modules on Spyders over the years at the dealer, and the only commonality he could find was each of the owners never flushed their brake fluid.

The first time mine was flushed was after 2 years, and it was almost black. This time I waited 4 years, keeping a close eye on it and measuring the water content with a meter. The fluid starts out almost clear. When it was changed this time, it was light yellow.
…. Brian

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

A little bird informs me that when the dealers enter the brake flush onto their computer it comes up with a ridiculously excessive long time to do the job.

Which is hopelessly incorrect.

No common sense seems to apply and the dealers should know it wont take 6 hrs.
Yet they seem to be happy to quote and charge customers the computer time/ price.

:agree: it's all about the money :gaah: ...... I remember when BRP was touting that you must have your valves checked on the V-twin engined Spyders ...... (I never saw it reported here that they ever needed adjusting) ... the dealers discovered very early on that the Valves didn't get out of adjustment - even at 50,000 mi. .... but they would gladly take your $800.00 for saying they did ..... JMHO :thumbup: ..... Mike

 

[Little Blue]

:chat:....Bleeding the brakes on your Spyder can be a 15 to 30 minutes job. However, if you never done it, then it will take you longer. Also if you don't have all the needed tools. Do your homework and save some money.

The dealer has all the tools and supplies and should be able to get you out the door for less. But this is a favorite money job. BRP has a special treat for the Dealer. ....:spyder:


So over the years I have enjoyed saving money on my Spyder 'Brake Fluid Flush and Fill'. I try to do all my own service work. Read and Learn from this Forum.

Remember, learning is a good way to save money. It can be fun too.

 

[Gwolf]

Whole page full of reasonably prices brake bleeder pumps...........

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brake+bleeder+kit+hand+held+vacuum+pump&crid=BZW5Y74TH3IJ&sprefix=brake+bleeder+hand+vacuum+pump%2Caps%2C95&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_30