BLACK WIDOW
New member
OIL
Castrol synthetics are "group 3" and a semi-symthetic or blend should sell for about $2.50 per quart.
Castrol synthetics are "group 3" and a semi-symthetic or blend should sell for about $2.50 per quart.
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best oil?
- Thread starter jeremy taflinger
- Start date
It doesn't have the energy conserving lable, so maybe it's ok.:dontknow:
I think you got the wrong version of Rotella:
This one meets the requirements:
ROTELLA® T Synthetic
Fully synthetic heavy-duty engine oil.
Approvals and Recommendations
API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
API SL, SJ, SH
Cummins CES 20078, 20076, 20071
Detroit Diesel 7SE 270
Mack EO-N Premium Plus ’03, EO-N, EO-M Plus
Volvo VDS 2
_________________________
This one does NOT:
Shell Rotella® T Synthetic with API CJ -4 Technology
Specifications and Approvals
5W-40
API: CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF
API: SM, SL, SJ, SH
Caterpillar : ECF-3, ECF-2
Cummins: CES 20081
DDC: 93K218
Ford: WSS-M2C171-E
Mack: EO-O Premium Plus
MB Approval: 228.31
Volvo: VDS-4
Dragracer,
Also, I noticed that you live in FLorida?? I live in eastern part of NC and we rarely get below 30 temp a year so I do not use 5W-40. I use Mobile1 10W-40. Why 10W? Because 5W is really designated to be too thin so it will start OK in wintertime for north part of USA like New England area where it hit under 20 degree for quite a long period of time (3-4 months). Down in the south, we rarely see that kind of weather too long but for few days every 2-3 weeks so for me, it is more practical to go up to 10W so the oil doesn't burn up during the friction especially in hot weather during the summertime where we get 90's to 100's degree. If you go with 10W, you will find yourself needing less amount of oil being added in between oil changes compared to 5W. The '40' is intended to maintain the thickness of oil needed for the engine no matter what temperature it is outside.
But that is your call. I use 10W-40 year round and find myself rarely needing to add more oil every time I check.
Also, I noticed that you live in FLorida?? I live in eastern part of NC and we rarely get below 30 temp a year so I do not use 5W-40. I use Mobile1 10W-40. Why 10W? Because 5W is really designated to be too thin so it will start OK in wintertime for north part of USA like New England area where it hit under 20 degree for quite a long period of time (3-4 months). Down in the south, we rarely see that kind of weather too long but for few days every 2-3 weeks so for me, it is more practical to go up to 10W so the oil doesn't burn up during the friction especially in hot weather during the summertime where we get 90's to 100's degree. If you go with 10W, you will find yourself needing less amount of oil being added in between oil changes compared to 5W. The '40' is intended to maintain the thickness of oil needed for the engine no matter what temperature it is outside.
But that is your call. I use 10W-40 year round and find myself rarely needing to add more oil every time I check.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
You are correct, as far as the oil specification in the Spyder manual goes. They specifically prohibit API Service SM or ILSAC GF-4 oils. This SM oil may be the exception, though. It carries no "Energy Conserving" label, and is rated JASO-MA, which is suitable for wet clutches. Someone will have to try it to find out, I guess. Technically it does not meet the BRP spec, but they do not subscribe to the JASO-MA spec.
If he has a deep pocket and is willing to risk engine trouble and losing his warranty, I suppose he can try it out.. I would just stick to what the owner manual recommend but I know that Rotella is a good oil. It is recommended by the Yamaha Virago guys at their forum and that is what I used in my 81 Virago because it helps with the clutch but that is another story.
BajaRon
Well-known member
These ‘Oil Wars’ discussions always work out the same. And I must say I just have to chuckle about it. They are so predictable.
You basically have 2 camps with some stray bullets here and there.
Camp 1 - MROOP (Manufacturer’s Recommended Oil Only Please). This group feels that whatever the manufacturer recommends has to be the best thing possible for their ride. They may worry about warranty issues or just take pride in buying manufacturer’s label products.
They are not swayed by the fact that the manufacturer takes the same can of Castrol, Pennzoil, etc., that you can buy at Wal-Mart, puts their label on it and charges twice the price.
They feel good about their purchase, their dealer tells them they are doing the right thing and it gives them piece of mind. And that, after all, is worth something.
Camp 2 – BBFTB (Best Bang For Their Buck). These people don’t feel all that warm and fuzzy about paying a dealer twice the price for generic oil in a different bottle. They may like their dealer but they don’t necessarily want to bend over that far.
They tend to do some research and discover they can get a better product for less money. That puts a smile on their face. This group then breaks down into smaller factions based on Brand/Viscosity because there are so many great options out there to choose from.
And this is how it always ends up. You can’t talk Camp-2 into paying more for a lesser product and you can’t talk Camp-1 into leaving the reservation. Both groups get what they’re looking for and both are happy with their decision.
Some things just never change!
Pilo
New member
Add more wood to the fire...
This article may dissipate doubts for some people in those groups, including the stray bullets...:
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
Saludos, Pilo
This article may dissipate doubts for some people in those groups, including the stray bullets...:
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
Saludos, Pilo
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truck 85
New member
this is what my dealer recommendedI'm getting ready to do my first oil change since my engine rebuild and I am going to give this a try.
LDFIREWORKS
New member
:2thumbs: :2thumbs::2thumbs: AMSOIL THE WAY TO GO :2thumbs:
BajaRon
Well-known member
Good article. Gives a little different perspective from an expert. Ams Oil does a lot of testing. Their oil always comes out on top, of course (though there are others that come very close). And my feeling is Ams Oil is honest in what they publish. I like the fact that they don't dodge other very good products. I hate a stacked deck.
The person who wrote this article must be aware of the Ams Oil data so I'm not sure why he says he's not been presented with hard evidence that one oil is any better than another (type for type). The Ams Oil testing clearly shows that some oils are not very good at all. Especially when you can get much better products for about the same price.
Still, he makes very good points and it's a good read.
BajaRon
Well-known member
i used to use royal purple but i switched to mobil1 full synthetic.
i read these oil debates and if there are no real magic portion and good quality synthetic is good quality synthetic, i figure why not mobil1.
its easy to get mobil1 at good price from walmart.
:agree: With the 1 condition that it does not contain too many of the friction modifiers that can make a wet clutch slip. Still, the worst you'll get from that problem is the need to drain and refill with the correct oil type. As long as you don't torch the clutch it really won't hurt anything.
QuadManiac
New member
I came across this article about four years ago, and it (along with several other very detailed analytical articles) helped solidify my decision to use Rotella T Synthetic in all my powersports engines... and I have, happily, since.
I still haven't decided whether I will use it also in my Spyder (dealer service so far), but I am fairly certain that it won't cause any issues.
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Recluze
New member
These ‘Oil Wars’ discussions always work out the same. And I must say I just have to chuckle about it. They are so predictable.
You basically have 2 camps with some stray bullets here and there.
Camp 1 - MROOP (Manufacturer’s Recommended Oil Only Please). This group feels that whatever the manufacturer recommends has to be the best thing possible for their ride. They may worry about warranty issues or just take pride in buying manufacturer’s label products.
They are not swayed by the fact that the manufacturer takes the same can of Castrol, Pennzoil, etc., that you can buy at Wal-Mart, puts their label on it and charges twice the price.
They feel good about their purchase, their dealer tells them they are doing the right thing and it gives them piece of mind. And that, after all, is worth something.
Camp 2 – BBFTB (Best Bang For Their Buck). These people don’t feel all that warm and fuzzy about paying a dealer twice the price for generic oil in a different bottle. They may like their dealer but they don’t necessarily want to bend over that far.
They tend to do some research and discover they can get a better product for less money. That puts a smile on their face. This group then breaks down into smaller factions based on Brand/Viscosity because there are so many great options out there to choose from.
And this is how it always ends up. You can’t talk Camp-2 into paying more for a lesser product and you can’t talk Camp-1 into leaving the reservation. Both groups get what they’re looking for and both are happy with their decision.
Some things just never change!
Well put and I agree. But being a neophyte, I have learned a lot from these discussions about oil. Who would have thought it was such complicated subject? And sometimes so emotional!
At one point BRP suggested I put non snythetic 20-50 Castrol in my bike and I knew enough to be uneasy about that. When changing the oil I found the piece that had been left out of my engine! At this point I decided it is probably not as critical as everyone makes out but it does make for a lively debate.
Blog on...
BLACK WIDOW
New member
OIL
YOU BET-- and then some.:thumbup:
i do believe mobil1 t4 motorcycle oil meets all the requirements.ray:
YOU BET-- and then some.:thumbup:
i do believe mobil1 t4 motorcycle oil meets all the requirements.
Except for the 5W-40 part. Here we go again. :dontknow: Changing the oil every 3,000 miles, maintaining the proper oil level and warming the engine before riding are more critical to engine life than which oil you use.
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