best oil?

[widowmaker2011]

quality premium product designed specifically for wet clutch motorcycle engines. Meaning a 5W-40 or 10w-40 synthetic blend or a pure synthetic oil. The pure synthetics flow better... plenty of test data as proof of that... reason each molicule is identical to the next. The pure synthetics don't break down or get "sheared" are quickly as blends or dinosaur oil. A recent study tested various oils and found that most dino oils were 50 percent sheared by 2000 miles... which means they were totally worn out. The pure synthetics tested under the same conditions in the same engines were only 8 percent sheared at 2000 miles. The "shear" strength is the ability of the oil to keep the metal to metal parts separated from each other.

You be the judge of what you wish to use but be aware no blend or dino oil is as good as base one synthetics.

If you pm me I will tell you which oils where tested. I will post a copy of the actual report if I can find it in all this mess I have laying around. I did have a copy on my computer but the hard disk went to lunch and didn't return. \ken

Ken- I agree with your synopsis on dino vesus synthetic but if you have the same report that I do, it was paid for by Amsoil and I won't say it is invalid, but it was not purely independent.
Not a flame war at all , but I wouldn't trust a report paid for by Mobil or Castrol either. A completely independent report , devoid of ANY funding by an oil manufacturer or marketer would be the best. (If thats what you have I apologize ahead of time) .

 

[Firefly]

I took this picture last summer when I was at the dealership open house...the BRP rep. there was quite adamant about using their oil...he explained the advantages of the blended, but I honestly forgot what he said...anyway, this is what BRP puts in your bike and this is what was tested for years before production (from what he said).

I guess you can put whatever you want in, but there's no need to fiddle with the engine lubricant when BRP knows what works quite well, IMHO. I'm sure a comparable fully synthetic will work, but doesn't the idle on the bike change?? Also, issues with clutch slippage or anything? I'm sticking with BRP as the bike has enough issues without having to create more...

I'd assume you could call the dealerships and ask the specifics of the oil...I didn't take a pic of the back side, but I think the back did have the details of the oil...been too long to remember...

But why did BRP change in mid-stream on this? They still (to the best of my knowledge) have not published anything telling us owners about the change.

I run what my owners manual says--- which is not the blend.

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

But why did BRP change in mid-stream on this? They still (to the best of my knowledge) have not published anything telling us owners about the change.

I run what my owners manual says--- which is not the blend.

Could it be about their cost? A blended oil is much cheaper than a group 4 true synthetic. The thing about a "blend" is one don't know how much synthetic oil product it contains; a tea spoon would constitute a blend.
I prefer to use a oil that I know how it is rated, and what the true weight is. I can buy Mobil 1 4T cheaper than BRP oil and know I am getting a first class pure group 4 synthetic that has been tested and approved for motorcycle use. Don't know or really care what BRP uses and I'm not sure that they are selling the best product for a motorcycle engine. It troubles me that they don't even put the service rating or weight on the container; The only oil I have ever seen that doesn't. It's like buying blind (at a very high price) and I for one don't do that. Other opinions may vary and that is fine too.

 

[krb1945]

The report I am referring to

was paid for by cycle world magazine... not AMSOIL. I'm trying to find it in my old motorcycle magazines archive. I'm not good at date filing... they are in 75 lb boxes in the garage. No problem widowmaker2011 we all need to discuss these types of things... that is how everyone learns... the hows, whats and wheres, so to speak.

Also be aware the manufacturers use customers to help determine what works and makes the machinery last. The manufacturers rely on feed back from dealers and customers.

As previous stated on this thread there is a great difference of opinion on lubricants just like with tires. Everyone has his own choice. As I have always stated... use the product you trust and like.

Me... I either use Motul synthetic if on the western side of the country and on the eastern side of the country I use AMSOIL. Those are the ones I feel most comfortable with and trust.

And I'd be willing to bet this thread will probably go on forever... as all lubricant and tire discussions do. Have a super day folks... the weather is so nice here I have to get out side and tinker. //Ken

 

[dltang]

I don't know anything about oil but I do know that the dealer we bought and have had service on our spyders through does not use BRP oil. So based on that, I do not think using a non BRP oil will hurt your warranty. They use Spectro Blue and both Brian and I have used Spectro Gold for motorcycles in our spyders. I am not sure but I also think Brian has used Amsoil or something else before too.

 

[Just Doo Me]

I don't know anything about oil but I do know that the dealer we bought and have had service on our spyders through does not use BRP oil. So based on that, I do not think using a non BRP oil will hurt your warranty. They use Spectro Blue and both Brian and I have used Spectro Gold for motorcycles in our spyders. I am not sure but I also think Brian has used Amsoil or something else before too.

Well with the kinda of luck you and Brian have had with your motors I would be inclined to try something else.It may not affect your warranty by may have had lead to some of the problems.:dontknow:

 

[wukka]

I took this picture last summer when I was at the dealership open house...the BRP rep. there was quite adamant about using their oil...he explained the advantages of the blended, but I honestly forgot what he said...anyway, this is what BRP puts in your bike and this is what was tested for years before production (from what he said).

I can understand why the BRP rep would adamantly recommend that you use only their oil (more revenue for them), but I cannot understand how a blended synth would be superior to a full synth...especially with an enclosed and hot-running engine, as is the case with the Spyder.

What's important is that WHATEVER oil that you use, it meets or exceeds the recommendations by the manufacture in the owner's manual.

 

[bone crusher]

I can understand why the BRP rep would adamantly recommend that you use only their oil (more revenue for them), but I cannot understand how a blended synth would be superior to a full synth...especially with an enclosed and hot-running engine, as is the case with the Spyder.

What's important is that WHATEVER oil that you use, it meets or exceeds the recommendations by the manufacture in the owner's manual.

Exactly....there is some spec that has to be followed...I think it's SM and one other are actually bad for the bike I'd assume a blend or full synthetic are fine...

 

[bone crusher]

But why did BRP change in mid-stream on this? They still (to the best of my knowledge) have not published anything telling us owners about the change.

I run what my owners manual says--- which is not the blend.

They are quite adamant about what NOT to use...I haven't really looked for some time, but there are two they say to stay away from...other than that, standard, blend or synthetic are probably fine...if you were to ride 10k between oil changes, you'd want the synthetic, but I don't think too many here would want to do that anyway...so, for that matter, I'd think they're all good...

I think we're talking good, better or best... Since I have BRP do my tune-ups to help ensure my warranty cannot be challenged on that issue, I'll go with whatever they use...I'm sure as others have pointed out here, there are options...

Speaking of oil changes, my old BMW 325ic hasn't had an oil change in about 1.5 years...have to get that taken care of too...darn thing runs great regardless...I think those old bmw engines are almost indestructible!

 

[Tonnaspyder]

I switched from BRP oil to Amsoil last summer and noticed a huge differance in the way my Spyder runs. My fuel economy increased by about 2 MPG and it runs and idles significantly smoother especially when it is cold. I really notice the difference in the spring & fall when the morning temps are below 20 degrees. I've used Amsoil in every vehicle that I've owned for the last 20 years with similar results. I've never had an engine problem and never had any vehicle burn oil and some of them had over 200,000 miles. I've been an Amsoil dealer for about 4 years and everybody that I've sold to is completely sold on Amsoil. This includes cars, trucks, motorcyles, deisels, snowmobiles, PWC, and ATV's. Amsoil is the original synthetic oil, why would you use anything else?

 

[bone crusher]

I switched from BRP oil to Amsoil last summer and noticed a huge differance in the way my Spyder runs. My fuel economy increased by about 2 MPG and it runs and idles significantly smoother especially when it is cold. I really notice the difference in the spring & fall when the morning temps are below 20 degrees. I've used Amsoil in every vehicle that I've owned for the last 20 years with similar results. I've never had an engine problem and never had any vehicle burn oil and some of them had over 200,000 miles. I've been an Amsoil dealer for about 4 years and everybody that I've sold to is completely sold on Amsoil. This includes cars, trucks, motorcyles, deisels, snowmobiles, PWC, and ATV's. Amsoil is the original synthetic oil, why would you use anything else?

There is always something better out there! On a more serious note, regarding Fire's concern about why they changed mid-stream, who the heck really knows. I don't think cost plays in as they pass it off to us anyway.

I think any oil that fits their requirements is fine...as long as you're getting regular oil changes, I don't think any oil makes makes too much of a difference. I think the difference really matters if you extend your oil changes...most here aren't going to do that.

Synthetic doesn't break down as much and this was the original big selling point....you could go further with more stress, etc...okay, that's great...however, if we stick to 3000 miles, the breakdown is limited anyway...the Spyder doesn't have 5-10k oil service intervals, does it? (I haven't really looked)

 

[BLACK WIDOW]

OIL

Exactly....there is some spec that has to be followed...I think it's SM and one other are actually bad for the bike I'd assume a blend or full synthetic are fine...[/QUOTE/]

There is a lot of good informantion that can be found on the web about oil. It is always to ones benefit to educate themselves about the most impotrant product you will buy for your Spyder or car for that matter. nojoke

 

[Latemarch]

I use the Rotella full syn.
I noticed that the new Rotella T6 full syn is now JASO DH-2 MA certified!

Rotella T6 link

 

[Sarge707]

I just changed mine from BRP to Mobil 1 Racing 4T... Others here are also using it and it meets the specs per the Spyder manual.

:agree: I have been using Mobil 1 4T in my 255 HP Sea Doo RXT-X for over 100 hours and it hits 8,160 rpm,s on a regular basis and PURRS like a kitten!
You can find six packs online at a good price with free shipping and no tax!:hun:

 

[Sarge707]

This is what BRP recommends...go with whatever you want, but I'll stick with what they say is best...

I used what I had left of the ABOVE when I changed my lawn mower oil last fall!:roflblack::roflblack::yikes:nojoke

 

[wkheathjr]

What's your .02 cents on Redline Motorcycle Oil??

The reason I brought up Redline is because I put a 5W-30 redline oil in my 4-cyl truck with over 100,000 miles on it and I end up hauling overweight trailer (over 3,000lbs of sausage in 3 freezers) from NC to SD through the Smoky Mountain and bunch of hills. When going up the mountain in Black Mountain, it was pretty hard on my truck as I was at 3rd gear (5-speed) and the RPM was pretty high at 5,000 something (I forgot but it was pretty close to redline) and it worried me. Often I had to stop to check the oil because it is old truck but the oil checked out ok without any loss (to my surprise). Anyway, after 3,000 miles and arriving SD, the oil was still fresh as if you just put new oil in there few minutes ago! That was enough for me to be impressive with its quality for my old truck without letting it overheating. Oh did I mention I was driving it in summertime during the high 90's!?

From that point, I used Redline in my 97 Camaro SS which I sold few years ago. I wouldn't mind going back to Redline for my spyder and yea I know it is pricey but from my experience of comparing it to Castrol, Mobile, and Quaker Full Synthetic oil, Redline won my business.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=110&pcid=21

 

[bone crusher]

Exactly....there is some spec that has to be followed...I think it's SM and one other are actually bad for the bike I'd assume a blend or full synthetic are fine...[/QUOTE/]

There is a lot of good informantion that can be found on the web about oil. It is always to ones benefit to educate themselves about the most impotrant product you will buy for your Spyder or car for that matter. nojoke

I agree...I've read all the pertinent info. but that was some time ago...I go with what they have so I don't have to remember all the specifics...so much other stuff to remember these days!

 

[krb1945]

Sounds like you gave the redline...

a good testing, and it proved to be a good lubricant. As long as you use 5w-40 or 10w-40 I see no reason not to use it. Also on the weight some of the newer water cooled motorcycle manufacturers are recommending 10w-30. Now I don't use 10w-30 in my new GL1800 because of the 90+ tempertures where I usually ride, but it is recommended in the owners manual.

Don't be concerned about the price because high quality always cost more than low quality. /ken

 

[Way2Fast]

BRP switched their XPS oil from a full synthetic to a "blend" for two reasons.....first the full synthetic was not compatible with the ceramic clutches (since switched to metal ) found in the supercharged engines used in some models of their Sea-doo line. The blend oil can be used in all the BRP 4-stroke engines, including both NA and supercharged and including the Spyder, without problems. The second reason was $$ savings. Blends cost less than a full synthetic, but did BRP lower the price charged for the oil?

Actually, any synthetic motorcycle oil specified for "wet clutch" (JASO MA rating) use is safe to use in a supercharged Sea-doo as well as in the Spyder, yet the fully synthetic XPS oil was not to be used in the SC engine. This leads me to believe that oil was not the best choice for the Spyder's wet clutch either.
This might be a possible 3rd reason for BRP to now specify their blended partial synthetic for the Spyder.

 

[M2Wild]

Everyone have thier own poison on this one. It will be the least expensive oil that has the best performance. Fill blank here _____________ .:firstplace: