belt tension

[wildwillie]

can somewon tell me about the screws on the end caps,it seems like all they do is keep the end caps on,but others saythey are the adjustments screws.I need to increase the belt tension I only have 220 lbs. and I'm getting a vibration.wildwillie

 

[Lamonster]

The others are right. :doorag:

 

[wildwillie]

Has anyone had there tension reset or increased and watched how it is done.I noticed that the belt is riding against the pulley flange on the wheel.Sounds like I better see my dealers service dept. better be warranty work it come in this way.wildwillie

 

[SpyderMark]

can somewon tell me about the screws on the end caps,it seems like all they do is keep the end caps on,but others saythey are the adjustments screws.I need to increase the belt tension I only have 220 lbs. and I'm getting a vibration.wildwillie

Do the following in order:

1. Loosen axle nut (large nut on right side of swing arm)
2. Turn adjustment screws on rear of swing arms to adjust belt tension
3. Turn adjustment screw on rear of right swing arm to set belt alignment
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until both are properly set
5. Tighten the axle nut to lock the rear wheel in place

A properly tensioned belt will deflect about 7/8 inch with ten pounds of pressure in the middle. When adjusting tension, turn both the adjustment screws the same amount. For example, turn BOTH screws (left and right swingarms) 1/4 turn then check tension, repeat if necessary.

IMPORTANT!!!!​

Make small adjustments and check tension often; the consequences of improper tension can be dire (stripped drive belt, destroyed wheel bearings, etc.)!​

To set belt alignment you must turn only one adjustment screw. If you adjust only the RIGHT side, you have less chance of affecting the belt tension. If you can, jack your Spyder's rear wheel off the ground, start her up, place the transmission in third and ease the clutch out. This allows the rear wheel to spin while the engine idles.

CAUTION!!!!!​

Make sure the front wheels are securely chocked to prevent the Spyder from rolling off the jack! Best case if she rolls off the jack: the engine stalls when the spinning rear wheel hits the ground, worst case: use your imagination!​

Make small adjustments of the right-side adjustment screw while watching the gap between the belt and the drive sprocket internal flange. The Operator's Guide calls for 1mm clearance.

If you can't jack the rear wheel you must make a small adjustment on the screw, tighten the axle nut, drive her a bit then check the belt alignment -- bit of a pain in the @ss really...

Once you have the alignment set, recheck the tension. If the tension is off, make small adjustments of BOTH screws.

It's an iterative process -- continue adjusting both tension and alignment until you have them both properly set.

Good luck!

Regards,

Mark

 

[Lamonster]

Nice writeup Mark. The only thing I question is if you run your Spyder on the jackstands it's going to throw it into "Limp Mode". Ask me how I know that. ;D The good news is it will rset itself. :doorag:

 

[barb36jack31]

On other belt drive bikes, I used the rule of thumb that if you can twist the belt 90 degrees at the midpoint between pulleys you are in the ball park. The belt on my Spyder when delivered was at that tension level, i.e. 90 degree twist at the midpoint. What is the general opinion of using this technique?

Jack H.

 

[Oxblood]

Nice write up Mark. However, how much tension is actually needed? If you measure that with a belt tension meter, what should the tension read?

 

[SpyderMark]

Nice writeup Mark. The only thing I question is if you run your Spyder on the jackstands it's going to throw it into "Limp Mode".

I think that's a hit or miss possibility... Didn't happen on ours when I adjusted tension/alignment at the 625 mile service.

But you're right, it could happen. My understanding is the computer senses a difference in speed between the spinning rear wheel and stationary front wheel and assumes a problem with the wheel speed sensors. Since the wheel speed sensors are an integral part of the vehicle stability system, the computer assumes the entire system is compromised and enters "limp mode."

As you mentioned, a shut down and restart (presumably the computer reboots itself) clears the limp mode and you're back in business.

Regards,

Mark

 

[SpyderByte]

I think that's a hit or miss possibility... Didn't happen on ours when I adjusted tension/alignment at the 625 mile service.

But you're right, it could happen. My understanding is the computer senses a difference in speed between the spinning rear wheel and stationary front wheel and assumes a problem with the wheel speed sensors. Since the wheel speed sensors are an integral part of the vehicle stability system, the computer assumes the entire system is compromised and enters "limp mode."

As you mentioned, a shut down and restart (presumably the computer reboots itself) clears the limp mode and you're back in business.

Regards,

Mark

What is "limp mode"???

 

[bjt]

Limp mode is when one of the Spyder's computers detect a problem. It allows the Spyder to run but regulates the maximum speed. I think there are two levels of limp mode based on how serious the computers think the problem is. One is about 40 or 45 MPH max and the other, for more serious problems, is less than that. I am not sure on any of what I just said but I believe that is what the service guy at my dealership told me.

 

[SpyderMark]

Nice write up Mark. However, how much tension is actually needed? If you measure that with a belt tension meter, what should the tension read?

Unfortunately, I don't have or use a tensiometer, so I don't have the info you're looking for. 7/8 inch deflection with ten pounds pressure in the center of the belt is the only specification I know of.

Sorry,

Mark

 

[Roaddog2]

:spyder:I don't think to many of us will ever have a tension meter since they cost a dealer 600.00 dollars or so :spyder:

 

[Lamonster]

:spyder:I don't think to many of us will ever have a tension meter since they cost a dealer 600.00 dollars or so :spyder:

Naw, 25 bucks and they work great. I've been using them for years on my Boss Hoss. :bigthumbsup:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Krikit-V-Belt-Tension-Gauge/dp/B000CRDLZM"]Amazon.com: Gates 91132 Belt Tension Tester: Automotive[/ame]

 

[Roaddog2]

Naw, 25 bucks and they work great. I've been using them for years on my Boss Hoss. :bigthumbsup:

http://www.amazon.com/Gates-Krikit-V-Belt-Tension-Gauge/dp/B000CRDLZM

I know about this type same deal for H-D. But they are doing it with sonicwaves now but your tensioner I,m sure is more than good enough.

 

[Twodog185]

In this picture of a Krikit Guage, the parameters are from 100 lbs to 350 lbs.

I've read tension should be set at 1400N to 1600N
I don't understand what "N" is, and how to achieve the 1400 to 1600. I assume it's using the sonic tool.

I've read if the belt moves between 11/16" and 7/8" @ 10 lbs pressure it's coorect...is that using the Krikit with parameters 20 lbs to 150 lbs?

I've read where somebody had 350 lbs of tension, but did not explain how that measurement was achieved.

I have a Krikit tool (100 to 300 lbs). I also have a Krikit tool (20 to 150 lbs.

Is the 20-150 used to get the 10 lbs of pressure and 7/8"?

Or is the 100-350 used to achieve what measurement?

This may sound stupid, but if I lift the belt with my finger at or about the same pressure needed to lift a 10 lb can of gravel, the belt moves just 11/16".

Is that shade tree mechanics, or what?

Final answer please.:banghead:

 

[garganos]

Nice write up Mark. However, how much tension is actually needed? If you measure that with a belt tension meter, what should the tension read?

The correct tension with the sonic tension meter from gates is 1400 - 1500 Newton. Be sure to set the meter to the proper specs first. The belt should be just off the inner flange by 0.5 - 1.0mm. I have been putting them all at 0.7mm:thumbup:

 

[NancysToy]

I picked up a Krikit at NAPA today (NBHKR2) for about $14.
-Scotty

 

[Twodog185]

Garganos...we don't have sonic laser tension nuclear devices...we have cheap little gizmos that may get us close....but how??

 

[Twodog185]

I just tried my gizmo...pushed up on the belt until the gizmo clicked. Did it four times, each time it was on 200 lbs. Is that where it needs to be?

 

[jeuchler]

metric...

...I've read tension should be set at 1400N to 1600N
I don't understand what "N" is, and how to achieve the 1400 to 1600. I assume it's using the sonic tool.

I've read if the belt moves between 11/16" and 7/8" @ 10 lbs pressure it's coorect...is that using the Krikit with parameters 20 lbs to 150 lbs?

I've read where somebody had 350 lbs of tension, but did not explain how that measurement was achieved.

I have a Krikit tool (100 to 300 lbs). I also have a Krikit tool (20 to 150 lbs.

Is the 20-150 used to get the 10 lbs of pressure and 7/8"?

Or is the 100-350 used to achieve what measurement?

This may sound stupid, but if I lift the belt with my finger at or about the same pressure needed to lift a 10 lb can of gravel, the belt moves just 11/16".

Is that shade tree mechanics, or what?

Final answer please.:banghead:

N is the abbrevaition for Newton, a unit of force.

1 newton = approximately 0.224808943 pounds force (call it a quarter for memory's sake)

or

1 pound force = about 4.44822162 newtons

so

1400 newtons = about 314.73252 pounds force

By the way, the force required to hold a medium sized apple is about = to one Newton. Cute, eh? Newton...apple... nojoke