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Belt tension gage

Thanks for posting this as I just could not figure out where these numbers were coming from. If you use the Torque tab instead of the Force tab you'll get the correct numbers. I agree that the Force tab would seem to be the right one but for this excersize the Torque tab gives the numbers we are looking for. If you use the Force tab numbers and the smaller Krikit your belt is going to be way too loose.

Torque is the measurement of rotational force. No rotational force in belt tension. The BRP spec is N (newtons, force) not N-M (newton meters, torque).
 
Torque is the measurement of rotational force. No rotational force in belt tension. The BRP spec is N (newtons, force) not N-M (newton meters, torque).

I have deleted my previous posts on this because I think I muddied the waters more than helped clear things up. I will say that I have used my Krikit II, 150-300 lb gauge on several Spyder belts right after they have been (supposidely) properly adjusted by the dealership, and on new Spyders sitting on the show room floor. They always come out between 220 and 260 on my Krikit II gauge.

It may very well be that the reading on the Krikit II is not accurate for actual value (a reading of 240 lbs not actually being 240 lbs tension on the belt). But as long as 220-260 is an accurate representation of a properly adjusted belt then that's good enough for me.
 
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Point taken and I may be wrong on the conversion issue. However, I have used my Krikit 150-300 gauge on several Spyder belts right after they have been properly adjusted by the dealership, and on new Spyders sitting on the show room floor. They always come out between 220 and 280 on my Krikit gauge.

This is a guess on my part but, could it be because the Kirkit gauge is specified for use on single V or multi V belts only. The Spyder belt is a toothed belt.
 
It should be noted that while you can calculate the conversion from Newtons to pounds-force, the Krikit will never measure exactly the same as the sonic meter, just because of the indirect way it does the measurement. The best way to get a baseline reading for the Krikit is to measure right after the dealer has adjusted it with the sonic gauge. I'm not sure where Ron got his readings, but since BRP lowered the spec they are nowhere near the 200 range when I measure. The original spec on the PE GS Spyder was in that area, though. It has been lowered twice since then. IMO the high range gauge is too much. BTW, the "quarter-turn" test is only approximate, and is also best learned right after a proper sonic adjustment. Also don't forget that the belt tension is supposed to be adjusted to the average of three readings, taken at different places on the belt, and that the factory spec is read with the Spyder jacked up, which should be the lowest belt tension. Readings taken on the ground will be higher.
 
This is a guess on my part but, could it be because the Kirkit gauge is specified for use on single V or multi V belts only. The Spyder belt is a toothed belt.
For the spyder you need to use the Krikit 2 gauge Napa Parts #7401-0102:thumbup:
The one you mentioned is the krikit 1 for v belts.
 
For the spyder you need to use the Krikit 2 gauge Napa Parts #7401-0102:thumbup:
The one you mentioned is the krikit 1 for v belts.

The larger gauge is for multi-rib belts to a maximum of 14 ribs. As stated on the video. It is not recommended for tooth type belts as is on the Spyder. There is a warning on the Gates web site not to use this gauge on timing belts. (Tooth type belt)
 
Do you push up on the lower belt run or push down on the top belt run, or doesn,t it matter if the rear wheel has been raised off the ground?
 
Gates 91132

Based on my researching past posts on belt tension it appears that the Gates 91132 is the proper Kriket gauge to use to check belt tension. RockAuto.com has them for about $14.00.
 
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