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Belt Tension adjustments

JRMSR

New member
My 2014 RT was vibrating quite bad at 3200 rpm 5th and 6th gear
Felt like I was on a road with rain grooves at that rpm

was using Manual info on 1050N (236lbs) as a setting (Krikit?)

Found a thread with 2015 Technical Service Bulletin said BRP changed to 630N (141lbs)
this is a huge change, but I tried it anyway
Bike is way better, no vibrations, smoother, feels better, has to be better for the bearings

Here is my data, taking reading with old setting rear wheel ON and OFF ground

236 LBS - \WHEEL ON GROUND
TIRE
ROTATIONTEST 1TEST 2TEST 3AVGDIFF
260260260260
45°260260260260
90°260260260260
135°270280260270
AVG263
236 LBS – WHEEL OFF GROUND
TIRE
ROTATIONTEST 1TEST 2TEST 3
220240240233
45°220240240233
90°230240220230
135°230240240237
AVG23329
150 LBS – WHEEL ON GROUND
TIRE
ROTATIONTEST 1TEST 2TEST 3
200220220213
45°230200230220
90°220220230223
135°220220240227
AVG
221
150 LBS – WHEEL OFF GROUND
TIRE
ROTATIONTEST 1TEST 2TEST 3
140150150147
45°150160150153
90°150160160157
135°150150150150
AVG
15269

[TD="width: 86"] 2014 CAN AM SPYDER RT [/TD]
[TD="width: 86"][/TD]
[TD="width: 86"][/TD]
[TD="width: 86"][/TD]
[TD="width: 86"][/TD]
[TD="width: 86"][/TD]

looks like I can test ON the ground and only need to adjust when way off
 
I believe the reason BRP specs say to set the tension with the wheel off the ground is consistency. As your data shows, when the bike is pushing down on the swing arm the tension is greater. Extrapolating between the the two extremes, wheel off ground hence the shock is fully extended, and wheel on ground hence the shock is compressed, you can see that if the wheel is off the ground the every time you check it you remove the variability of differing shock compression. Offsetting that is the fact that the tension setting is given in such a wide range, the primary criteria being min and max and acceptable vibration, that varying shock compression will have minimal real impact on the end result.

The reason the tension increases with the wheel on the ground is the center of rotation of the swing arm is behind the front drive pulley. As the swing arm moves up with respect to the bike frame the center to center distance of the two pulleys increases slightly.

Check the tension with the wheel on the ground. It's good enough and a whole lot easier! If you want to be as consistent as possible between checks never have any weight on the seat and let all the air out of the air shock. And to get really anal about it, make sure the gas tank is full every time!
 
Earlier this year, I put Doc's tensioner on my 2015 RT and it made a huge difference in the belt vibration. But I decided to adjust the belt on my RT down to 630N the other day using my sonic meter. That new adjustment, along with Doc's damper, has eliminated the belt vibration on my bike. I was astonished how smooth my bike ran on a 300 mile jaunt yesterday with the wife. I should have adjusted the belt down to 630N sooner.

Unfortunately, I will be putting the bikes away tomorrow for the season. Summers are way too short in MN!

Gunner
 
Earlier this year, I put Doc's tensioner on my 2015 RT and it made a huge difference in the belt vibration. But I decided to adjust the belt on my RT down to 630N the other day using my sonic meter. That new adjustment, along with Doc's damper, has eliminated the belt vibration on my bike. I was astonished how smooth my bike ran on a 300 mile jaunt yesterday with the wife. I should have adjusted the belt down to 630N sooner.

Unfortunately, I will be putting the bikes away tomorrow for the season. Summers are way too short in MN!

Gunner

Did you happen to, and/or could you, recheck the tension using the sonic meter, after letting Doc's damper contact the belt again? (I assume you set the tension to 630 holding the damper off the belt.) I have the same setup and the Gates meter, but just can't quite get the vibration gone completely. I'm still running on the high side of the old tension.
 
Belt tension

Did you happen to, and/or could you, recheck the tension using the sonic meter, after letting Doc's damper contact the belt again? (I assume you set the tension to 630 holding the damper off the belt.) I have the same setup and the Gates meter, but just can't quite get the vibration gone completely. I'm still running on the high side of the old tension.


If iyour on the high side of 236lbs ( wheel off ground). That is why you have heavy vibration
go to 140-150 lbs and you should be way better
 
Did you happen to, and/or could you, recheck the tension using the sonic meter, after letting Doc's damper contact the belt again? (I assume you set the tension to 630 holding the damper off the belt.) I have the same setup and the Gates meter, but just can't quite get the vibration gone completely. I'm still running on the high side of the old tension.

Sent PM.

Gunner
 
A Tensioner for our kit is a misnomer. We call it a Vibration Damper because it does not add tension (very little) to the belt. It is more like a finger put on a vibrating guitar string to stop the vibration. With the rear wheel off of the ground, there is probably very, very little tension, if any at all.
 
Belt

Rocky at Coyote powersports just showed me the technical bulletin about lowering the belt tension. The F3 models are destroying the front pulley like mad! If you have an F3, remove the cover and inspect the pulley. Any red dust is rust, and that means the pulley is going to fail. Replace. BRP thinks it is caused by belt being too tight. Watch it!
We use Doc’s belt tensioner/ vibration device, and have seen too many BRP models fail and ruin belts. We did 2 this weekend.
 
Last edited:
Tension?

What should the tension be set to for a F3? I just assumed that it would be set correctly from the factory.

Thanks,
Charlotte
 
I adjusted mine to 120 Kricket pounds = 540 neutons.
Still going to do a New Sprocket in the Spring (Hopefully by then there will be a Bulletin and it will done for FREE like the 2015 frame support?)
 
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