• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Anyone tried VALVOLINE™ 4-STROKE FULL SYNTHETIC" Motorcycle Oil?

Thanks Deanna777, I knew that you used it and also saw where you were going to do the oil sample when you change oil next. Looking forward to seeing the results.

Also how many miles are you running between oil changes?

K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna
 
K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna

:popcorn: I will be waiting for the oil lab report.
Thanks, Have a good day. 👍
 
The Valvoline I just poured in mine is rated SL, maybe the next batch I order will be SM or SN.View attachment 193042

That is both encouraging and discouraging at the same time. My reference was to Valvolines current published information taken from their website. Listing oil as SJ is discouraging.
It is encouraging that the oil you purchased is rated higher.

Myself, I would still be hesitant unless the oil were tested by 540rat. But as we known have used it without short term issues in regards to gearbox wear.

It seems one owner will accomplish a SOAP sample of this oil. Ideally the oil has at least 5000 miles or more on it. Anything less should come back as virtually new oil. With that, I hope the person correctly collects the sample for accurate results.
 
K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna


Please realize that the oil sample you extract should be after a reasonable run and driving time to blend all contaminants. Also, the oil sample should be taken as quickly as practical after shutdown.
I may be wrong, but your words make it sound as if you are waiting to get the oil sample kit, but will accomplish the oil change without the sample jar. If so, are you planning to retain the drained oil, then sample the drained oil days later?

I hope you have the time and sample kit to correctly take the oil sample, as many people are curious
 
K80Shooter, Today I ordered the Oil test kit from a local Auto parts store, I'll pick up the test kit next week. Sat or Sunday Oct. 29th or 30th I'll change my oil in my spyder.

Once I get the Oil test's back I'll post on this site/ thread.


Deanna

Thanks Deanna :cheers:
 
Please realize that the oil sample you extract should be after a reasonable run and driving time to blend all contaminants. Also, the oil sample should be taken as quickly as practical after shutdown.
I may be wrong, but your words make it sound as if you are waiting to get the oil sample kit, but will accomplish the oil change without the sample jar. If so, are you planning to retain the drained oil, then sample the drained oil days later?

I hope you have the time and sample kit to correctly take the oil sample, as many people are curious

PMK,


I did get the oil sample kit. The Auto parts store had to order it.

I took an oil sample while I was doing the oil change on my Spyder. I did get a call from the Lab, they wanted to confirm the oil sample was mine, so now I am just waiting to get the oil sample results. As soon as I get the oil sample results, I'll post on this thread. I know a lot of people are curious on this site about the oil sample results.

Deanna
 
Last edited by a moderator:
PMK,


I did get the oil sample kit. The Auto parts store had to order it.

I took an oil sample while I was doing the oil change on my Spyder. I did get a call from the Lab, they wanted to confirm the oil sample was mine, so now I am just waiting to get the oil sample results. As soon as I get the oil sample results, I'll post on this thread. I know a lot of people are curious on this site about the oil sample results.

Deanna

Just for what its worth, and having done a lot of oil samples on aircraft engines, taking the oil sample requires a certain method for accurate results. Typically, the engine oil must be a full operating temperature and have run for several minutes minimum at that temperature. The oil sample should be collected as soon as immediately after shutting down the engine. The oil sample should be taken after a portion of the oil has begun draining but should not be the last oil drained out.

When oil samples are done in this manner, consistent report data can be determined to monitor trends. These trends include analysis of metallic wear particles, and levels of other elements including Silica and more. The trending determines health of the component from a wear standpoint, but is not always an indicator of catastrophic impending failure.

The typical focus in this group is the oils ability to survive molecular shearing. This is important but not entirely critical. Yes, owners here will use this information to better understand oil change intervals. While that information can be valuable, it must be utilized with caution. Here is why. The modern engine in almost every vehicle or machine is very easy on oil. Granted race or high performance will strain oil more, but in general, most engines do not wear out oil by shearing. Engines have very few internal parts that will shear the molecules. Typically, but not limited to are the cams sliding across buckets or lifters are the main culprits. Other items such as bearing, journals, pistons etc either are pressure fed or have extremely large surface areas to lessen applied surface loads.

So then, even the engine portion of the most abused by riding Spyder will not over tax an oil to failure.

Spyders, and most motorcycles utilize a shared oil system for both the gearbox / clutch, and the engine. Regarding molecular oil shearing, none of the wear components within the gearbox are pressure fed oil. This alone is a huge factor in tearing oil molecules apart. Without pressure, the oil itself must provide 100% of the film strength. The smaller the measured area between the two wear surfaces, the greater the actual pressure that is applied into the oils film.

Additionally, the mechanics of how two gear teeth interface, not only shows a very narrow contact patch, but also, the gear teeth are actually sliding across each other at extremely high pressures. These two factors basically shred the oil molecules, tearing them apart and reducing viscosity.

The modern wet clutch is an amazing device. For such a unit to smoothly harness all the transmitted power at full lock up, while bathed in slippery oil is incredible. In general though, a wet clutch has such a large surface area, and is fibre against metal, so while it does shear oil molecules, it is minor compared to the gearbox.

What this all means, if you have, or anyone has accomplished an oil sample correctly, that is wonderful. Done incorrectly is less wonderful. The real data though is in general applicable to your machine, and yours alone. Let me explain. Since we now understand the gearbox is the primary basis for shearing oil molecules, understanding how the owner rides is a HUGE factor in this shearing process. A rider that seldom accelerates hard, induces less strain into the gears. Someone that shifts at lower rpm, induces less strain into the gears. Owners in mountainous or hilly areas will induce more shearing than an owner that lives in flatter locations. Those that ride solo vs two up, or those that pull a trailer and so much more, are all relevant oil shearing factors.

This is very important to understand when owners compare oil sample reports. There can be great info that shares well, but typically, as I mentioned, each oil sample is specific to that owner and vehicle.

Years ago, others accomplished oil samples on Mobil 1 10w40 Racing 4t motorcycle oil. Having used this oil in our Spyder since draining the break in oil, I was curious of the results. The results of other owners oil sample test gave me a good basis of what to expect.

Knowing oil is not merely a mileage interval for being changed, or in some cases based on owners oil sample data, but importantly, also a calendar interval I utilize all that information when I decide on the oil change interval I would use. No I do not accomplish oil samples on our Spyder, but utilized info posted here and leaned towards generous safety margins.

Also, for anyone that has followed along, be aware, that with multi grade oils, it is common that the wider viscosity spreads such as 5w40 will shear earlier than a 10w40 of two similar quality oils. Part of this reverts to film strength between the two gears. Both oils when hot will become a viscosity of 40. However when cold, the 5w is in simple terms 1/2 the viscosity of the 10w. This thinner oil has less ability to withstand high pressure loads between gear teeth. This can shear oil sooner or possibly increase wear.

I did not take the time to post all of this to create and oil debate or war. Stating merely some of the oil stuff in simple terms. All the best to each of you in deciding what oil to use and what interval to change it at.

Moderators please understand this is not an attack at Deana so please do not delete this effort.
 
...

Moderators please understand this is not an attack at Deana so please do not delete this effort.

Your effort is appreciated. Just a thought for your consideration: I used to keep a running total of the amount of fuel consumed and used that (as well as time) to determine the oil change interval. Fuel consumed has many other factors included, such as long idling periods and heavy handed throttle use. Too cumbersome to continue with since I don't crank it up these days, but it still may be a better indicator of remaining oil life.
 
Just for what its worth, and having done a lot of oil samples on aircraft engines, taking the oil sample requires a certain method for accurate results. Typically, the engine oil must be a full operating temperature and have run for several minutes minimum at that temperature. The oil sample should be collected as soon as immediately after shutting down the engine. The oil sample should be taken after a portion of the oil has begun draining but should not be the last oil drained out.

When oil samples are done in this manner, consistent report data can be determined to monitor trends. These trends include analysis of metallic wear particles, and levels of other elements including Silica and more. The trending determines health of the component from a wear standpoint, but is not always an indicator of catastrophic impending failure.

The typical focus in this group is the oils ability to survive molecular shearing. This is important but not entirely critical. Yes, owners here will use this information to better understand oil change intervals. While that information can be valuable, it must be utilized with caution. Here is why. The modern engine in almost every vehicle or machine is very easy on oil. Granted race or high performance will strain oil more, but in general, most engines do not wear out oil by shearing. Engines have very few internal parts that will shear the molecules. Typically, but not limited to are the cams sliding across buckets or lifters are the main culprits. Other items such as bearing, journals, pistons etc either are pressure fed or have extremely large surface areas to lessen applied surface loads.

So then, even the engine portion of the most abused by riding Spyder will not over tax an oil to failure.

Spyders, and most motorcycles utilize a shared oil system for both the gearbox / clutch, and the engine. Regarding molecular oil shearing, none of the wear components within the gearbox are pressure fed oil. This alone is a huge factor in tearing oil molecules apart. Without pressure, the oil itself must provide 100% of the film strength. The smaller the measured area between the two wear surfaces, the greater the actual pressure that is applied into the oils film.

Additionally, the mechanics of how two gear teeth interface, not only shows a very narrow contact patch, but also, the gear teeth are actually sliding across each other at extremely high pressures. These two factors basically shred the oil molecules, tearing them apart and reducing viscosity.

The modern wet clutch is an amazing device. For such a unit to smoothly harness all the transmitted power at full lock up, while bathed in slippery oil is incredible. In general though, a wet clutch has such a large surface area, and is fibre against metal, so while it does shear oil molecules, it is minor compared to the gearbox.

What this all means, if you have, or anyone has accomplished an oil sample correctly, that is wonderful. Done incorrectly is less wonderful. The real data though is in general applicable to your machine, and yours alone. Let me explain. Since we now understand the gearbox is the primary basis for shearing oil molecules, understanding how the owner rides is a HUGE factor in this shearing process. A rider that seldom accelerates hard, induces less strain into the gears. Someone that shifts at lower rpm, induces less strain into the gears. Owners in mountainous or hilly areas will induce more shearing than an owner that lives in flatter locations. Those that ride solo vs two up, or those that pull a trailer and so much more, are all relevant oil shearing factors.

This is very important to understand when owners compare oil sample reports. There can be great info that shares well, but typically, as I mentioned, each oil sample is specific to that owner and vehicle.

Years ago, others accomplished oil samples on Mobil 1 10w40 Racing 4t motorcycle oil. Having used this oil in our Spyder since draining the break in oil, I was curious of the results. The results of other owners oil sample test gave me a good basis of what to expect.

Knowing oil is not merely a mileage interval for being changed, or in some cases based on owners oil sample data, but importantly, also a calendar interval I utilize all that information when I decide on the oil change interval I would use. No I do not accomplish oil samples on our Spyder, but utilized info posted here and leaned towards generous safety margins.

Also, for anyone that has followed along, be aware, that with multi grade oils, it is common that the wider viscosity spreads such as 5w40 will shear earlier than a 10w40 of two similar quality oils. Part of this reverts to film strength between the two gears. Both oils when hot will become a viscosity of 40. However when cold, the 5w is in simple terms 1/2 the viscosity of the 10w. This thinner oil has less ability to withstand high pressure loads between gear teeth. This can shear oil sooner or possibly increase wear.

I did not take the time to post all of this to create and oil debate or war. Stating merely some of the oil stuff in simple terms. All the best to each of you in deciding what oil to use and what interval to change it at.

Moderators please understand this is not an attack at Deana so please do not delete this effort.

PMK,

Thanks for the info.

When I took the oil sample from my spyder, I took the sample about 1 minute after the oil started to drain. I filled the oil sample to the LINE on the plastic bottle, after it was full, I caped the bottle. Put the bottle in a black small bottle( the sample bottle was clear, it had a white cover), with the info on the sheet. Mailed the oil sample as soon as I could. I got a call from the Oil Analyst lab, they wanted to confirm it was my oil. They were going to a analyst on it. I have not had the Oil Analyst test back yet. When I get the oil test results back I'll post on this thread.

Deanna
 
PMK,

Thanks for the info.

When I took the oil sample from my spyder, I took the sample about 1 minute after the oil started to drain. I filled the oil sample to the LINE on the plastic bottle, after it was full, I caped the bottle. Put the bottle in a black small bottle( the sample bottle was clear, it had a white cover), with the info on the sheet. Mailed the oil sample as soon as I could. I got a call from the Oil Analyst lab, they wanted to confirm it was my oil. They were going to a analyst on it. I have not had the Oil Analyst test back yet. When I get the oil test results back I'll post on this thread.

Deanna

Ideally, you had ridden, not idled the Spyder for at least 15 minutes to fully heat the oil and circulate the oil before capturing your oil analysis sample. On our Spyder, well before a minute, the oil is well drained and merely a trickle is coming out. Hopefully you were able to capture oil sample after about 1/3 of the oil had drained.
With luck you can accomplish this test during each oil change to establish the trends of wear metals and more, for longevity.
 
Ideally, you had ridden, not idled the Spyder for at least 15 minutes to fully heat the oil and circulate the oil before capturing your oil analysis sample. On our Spyder, well before a minute, the oil is well drained and merely a trickle is coming out. Hopefully you were able to capture oil sample after about 1/3 of the oil had drained.
With luck you can accomplish this test during each oil change to establish the trends of wear metals and more, for longevity.

PMK,

Yes, I rode the spyder before I took the oil sample( I put in stabilizer in the gas tank, so the stabilizer would get into the system before I did the oil change). Yes I did capture the oil sample after about 1/3 of the oil had drained.

Deanna
 
Here is my Oil Analysis - Deanne777's Results

HI All,

I know everyone want's to know what the Oil Analyst results are on my 2014 RTS-SE6: What for it...........................................................

Here you are the results: Date sampled Oct. 30, 2021
Date Lab received my sample: Nov. 9th, 21
Date Reported Nov. 15th, 21

Mileage on my spyder: 29125

Time on Oil 29125 Mileage
Oil Brand Valvoline
Oil Type: Full Syn High Mileage
SAE 10W 40
Oil added 5 quarts
Oil Filter changed Yes
Oil Changed Yes

Metals(ppm)

Iron(Fe) 64
Chromium(Cr)<1
Lead(pb)1
Copper(cu) 2
Tin<1
Aluminium 3
Nickel<1
Silver<1
Titanium <1
Vanadium <1

Contaminants
Silicon(Si) 3
Sodium(na) 144
Potassium (k) 2


Additives(ppm)
Magnesium(mg)52
Calcium 1860
Barium <1
Phosphorus(p) 785
Zinc (Zn) 907
Molybdenum(Mo) 1
Boron(B) 102



Contaminates
Water(%) <0.05
Coolant Yes



Physical Tests
Viscosity (cSt 100C) 10.9




Physical/Chemical
Base Number( mgKOH/g 5.9

At the bottom there is a picture of a circle with a triangle with a ! also it says Caution

Legend
Severe, Abnormal, Caution, Normal


Diagnosis

Engine wear levels appear satisfactory for the first sample,
Sodium level( oil additive chemical) abnormal.
Silicon level (dirt, sealant material) Satisfactory
Water content acceptable
Viscosity within specified operation range
Action:Check for source of possible coolant leak
As oil and filter(s) already changed, resample a reduced service interval to monitor and establish wear tread.


Also everyone this is my first time I have taken a oil sample on my spyder. I have the "1330 Ace Engine".


So I don't have any thing to compare it with.

I put in 5 quarts.

Deanna
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Comparison of oil analysis - Deanne777 | ButterSmooth

Here's my last results (next to Deanna777's). The forum doesn't allow more readable formatting:

Deanna777's ........................ | ..... ButterSmooth's
Time on Oil 29125 Mileage.. | ....... 6035mi(on oil, 16000mi on engine)
Oil Brand: Valvoline ............ | ....... Rotella T6
Oil Type: Full Syn High Mileage
SAE 10W 40 .......................... | ....... 5w40
Oil added 5 quarts
Oil Filter changed Yes
Oil Changed Yes

Metals(ppm)
Deanna777's ..... | ..... ButterSmooth's
Valvoline ........... | ..... Rotella T6
Iron(Fe) 64 ......... | ...... 34
Chromium(Cr)<1 | ...... 0
Lead(pb) 1 ......... | ...... 1
Copper(cu) 2 ...... | ..... 10
Tin <1 ................. | ...... 2
Aluminium 3 ...... | ...... 9
Nickel <1 ............ | ...... 0
Silver <1 ............. | ...... 0
Titanium <1 ....... | ...... 0
Vanadium <1 ..... | ....... *

Contaminants
Silicon(Si) 3 ........ | ...... 9
Sodium(na) 144 . | ...... 7
Potassium (k) 2 . | ...... 2


Additives(ppm)
Deanna777's ............. | ...... ButterSmooth's
Valvoline ................... | ..... Rotella T6
Magnesium(mg) 52 ... | ...... 81
Calcium 1860 ............. | ...... 1876
Barium <1 ................... | ...... 1
Phosphorus(p) 785 .... | ...... 836
Zinc (Zn) 907 .............. | ...... 1006
Molybdenum(Mo) 1 ... | ..... 5
Boron(B) 102 .............. | ...... 110



Contaminates
Water(%) <0.05 ... | ... 0
Coolant Yes ........ | ... 0


Physical Tests
Viscosity (cSt 100C) 10.9 . | . 10.83


Physical/Chemical
Base Number( mgKOH/g 5.9 ... | ... 4.5
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I forgot to mention on mine, I change my oil every time before the spyder goes into hibernation,( which is in Oct.).

Question: So are my oil analysis numbers too high or too low?

Deanna
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Deanna777, This is something that would concern me, "Action:Check for source of possible coolant leak"

Have you had to add any water/antifreeze?
 
I forgot to mention on mine, I change my oil every time before the spyder goes into hibernation,( which is in Oct.).
Question:

So are my oil analyst numbers to high or to low?

Deanna

Not good for some ok for others. First one that caught my attention was sodium. That is pretty high.

Unfortunately, you incorrectly stated that the oil has 29,000 miles on it. Not sure if this was you retyping to post here or an error completing the form.

I would be curious to know the actual miles on the oil since last changed. Seeing the Cst value that low for a 10w40 is concerning.
 
Not good for some ok for others. First one that caught my attention was sodium. That is pretty high.

Unfortunately, you incorrectly stated that the oil has 29,000 miles on it. Not sure if this was you retyping to post here or an error completing the form.

I would be curious to know the actual miles on the oil since last changed. Seeing the Cst value that low for a 10w40 is concerning.

PMK,


Since I have had my spyder, I have had the oil changed every time ( by a can am dealership) before the spyder goes into hibernation.

The total mileage on my spyder is 29,125 miles. I have the oil changed once a year.

It was an error completing the form. That was my bad!

Deanna
 
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