Just a word of caution. When using the gold plug, you are using two dissimilar metals and you can get a reaction between the metals. This can cause the plug to lock up in the base metal. Just letting everybody know it is possible.
You won't have any issues with OEM plugs, either, if you use the correct tools correctly.i'm coming up on my 3rd oil change with the GOLD PLUGS and have had no issues as of this time.....Dan P SPYD3R
The OEM oil sump plug is some type of nonmagnetic alloy, monel perhaps perhaps, for its anticorrosion properties. The OEM clutch cover plug will jump to a magnet a magnet but the head and threads will not attract a hacksaw blade or metal filings; don't know what it's made of.
IMO, it is most important to remember the recommended torques for all three removables are pretty low: oil sump plug - 21 lbft +/- 1 lbft; clutch cover plug 15 lbft +/- 1 lbft; oil filter cover 18 lbft +/- 2 lbft, according to my Green Manual. Also, both the aluminum washer on the oil sump plug and the copper washer on the clutch cover plug are designed to be used only once and should be replaced at each oil change. They compress a tiny amount when the plug is tightened and if reused additional torque must be used to try to get the correct seal. This can lead to myriad problems down the line.
I have done dozens of Oil changes ..... I have not re-placed any of the washers or "O" rings ..... I have not had any leakage on any of the Spyders I now or have owned ... Is this some sort of miracle :dontknow:....... just a thought ..... Mike :thumbup:
Pretty cheap insurance, really.I don't know about miracles and I'm not saying one can't get away with not replacing o-rings, washers and such; I'm just concerned enough about my investment to follow the manufacturer's directions. The snip below is from the service manual and there is a similar notation on the clutch cover plug washer. To each his own.
The OEM oil sump plug is some type of nonmagnetic alloy, monel perhaps perhaps, for its anticorrosion properties. The OEM clutch cover plug will jump to a magnet a magnet but the head and threads will not attract a hacksaw blade or metal filings; don't know what it's made of.
IMO, it is most important to remember the recommended torques for all three removables are pretty low: oil sump plug - 21 lbft +/- 1 lbft; clutch cover plug 15 lbft +/- 1 lbft; oil filter cover 18 lbft +/- 2 lbft, according to my Green Manual. Also, both the aluminum washer on the oil sump plug and the copper washer on the clutch cover plug are designed to be used only once and should be replaced at each oil change. They compress a tiny amount when the plug is tightened and if reused additional torque must be used to try to get the correct seal. This can lead to myriad problems down the line.
Well I stripped the silly T40 torx plug on my wife’s 2022 RT transmission. May have been me, but, I’ll tell you that there’s no way that the engine t45 torx plug was factory set to 21ftlbs. That took some muscle to get it loose and I suspect the transmission plug is the same way. Oh well. .
Anyway, for when I figure out how to get the messed up plug off, does anyone know the correct Gold Plug for the transmission? The engine is apparently MP01 M12x1.5 Gold Plug but I cannot find a listing for the transmission on the Gold Plug site. Thanks in advance.
I don't know about miracles and I'm not saying one can't get away with not replacing o-rings, washers and such; I'm just concerned enough about my investment to follow the manufacturer's directions. The snip below is from the service manual and there is a similar notation on the clutch cover plug washer. To each his own.
Thanks but do you think anyone actually reads the service manual before they start the job?
Religiously.Thanks but do you think anyone actually reads the service manual before they start the job?
I did and watched a couple of YouTube videos.Thanks but do you think anyone actually reads the service manual before they start the job?