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Any A/mkt Clutch Kits for 09 SE5's?
- Thread starter DLE
- Start date
There is quite a bit of difference in the new and old nozzles. The old nozzle is very short, whereas the new nozzle looks somewhat like the needles that are used to air up a ball. It is considerably longer. I will post a picture of it when I figure out how to attach it.
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docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
I thought that I was the only one with clutch problems ('course, "because of the turbo"). :dontknow:
docdoru
Doru the Destroyer-Spyder Photo Investigator
Thinner friction, thicker steel plates. Any changes in the springs (weight, height)?
The only spring involved with this kit was the spring disc. The pressure plate and clutch drum assembly were not involved, so did not remove them, as my discs had just started slipping and were not burned. Shop mechanic as well as myself could not detect any burnt smell or color in the oil. Also no reason to take the the pressure retaining valve apart, since the oil had just been changed and the air nozzle would have no reason to be clogged or dirty. So the compression spring did not come into play, and was not part of the kit.
These are some photos showing the difference in the steel driven plate, the offset faces the disc pack, very important to soak the plates in oil for 1/2 hour prior to installing. The clutch pack compression device is used to compress the disc pack to enable an accurate measurement from the top of the friction plate to the top of the clutch hub.
Also a photo measuring the the top of the spring disk to the machine surface on the pressure plate. Last photo is the old and new oil nozzle. IMG_0758
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BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Desert Spyder
New member
This describes my RT to the T. My clutch hub disintegrated coming home from Durango. After the dealer there, good people BTW, replaced it the bike was a creeper. It was safe and driveable so I took it home. Lately I've been noticing some slippage from 1st to 2nd. There have been other anomalies recently which I can't put my finger on by what has been suggested here it sounds like the clutch plates should be changed out. Right?
Remember Lamont our conversation on this a few months back? After 3000 miles or so since Durango the bike is still a creeper.
BTW, I own a '10 RT SE5, and use Rons Amsoil. My last oil change was at the dealer for the filter kit. BTW, they only changed the clutch hub in Durango, no other parts.
billybovine
Active member
This clutch upgrade is not just for the SE. There is a kit for SE and another for SM. This is logical because the clutch packs in both are identical except for one plate and the oil nozzles are the same. It also looks like it applies to all models from 2008 to 2012. I will wait until I have trouble or decide to rebuild the clutch and then get the kit with the new nozzle.
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The centrifical clutch assembly, without going into much detail, contains several disc's that perform different functions and some centrifical weights referred to as rollers. As the engine RPM's increase and the clutch spins, these rollers, which resemble small dumb bells, move out, increasing the pressure on the clutch discs, causing the clutch to engage and move the machine. When your clutch is setup properly, there are adjustment plates that provide a predetermined amount of clearance so, ideally at an idle, the clutch would not be engaged and at approximately 2400 rpm's it would engage.
When my machine was new, and the clutch was, for a lack of being able to describe it differently, tight, there was a small amount of creep when I would put it in 1st or reverse. As the clutch loosened up, that clearance became excessive, and I noticed the clutch was not engaging as quickly and was definitely was closer to 2400+ rpm's. But that also lead to excessive wear to the friction plates and under hard acceleration, as the rpm's picked up, the rollers in the clutch pack were all the way out, but as the wear on the friction plates was becoming excessive, the clearance was too great and the clutch was slipping, which would create much heat and over time burn and possibly warp some of the plates.
When I installed a my new clutch pack, the proper clearance was restored and now at an idle, the clutch does have a small amount of pressure being exerted on the friction disks at an idle. This will get better the more it is driven.
The most important take away from this is to realize that the biggest enemy to your clutch is driving and shifting at low RPM's. This can cause a lack of complete pressure on the disk pack, and the slippage to occur, providing excess wear on the friction disks.
The oil nozzle is part of the new disk pack, and does provide better oil distribution into the axis of the disk pack. I do not know if this is available separately.
Wish I could repost the photos, but have spent several hours trying and have not been sucessful.
So repent of your driving errors, go forth, keeping your rpm's and shift points high, rejoice and be happy, enjoy riding your machine thoughout the land.
NOT my case (RS SM5):
Sorry, you are correct. Should have clarified that I was referring to the se5.
rcturner
New member
Back to my original question, does my 2012 have the new nozzle? Based on the additional information included in this post, it is a significant change but nothing about when it was incorporated into production.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
Pretty sure this is a 2013 change but you can purchase the updated parts.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
Lamont, when you say parts, do you mean an entire Clutch kit, or can you just get the "OIL NOZZLE"? and if you can get the oil nozzle, do you have a part #? Thanks, much appreciated. Mike :thumbup:
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rcturner
New member
What would be the circumstances that would make this modification necessary or at least desirable ? Is this a modification that could be done by the home mechanic that has about 50 years of experience working on motorcycles, cars, etc or is it something that needs to be done by the dealer ?
Putting a new nozzle in is a very simple, straight forward procedure. Taking the panels off to gain access to the location will take you twice the time as the actual procedure to replace it.
Not sure how necessary it is, it is something that is part of the new clutch pack.
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