Any A/mkt Clutch Kits for 09 SE5's?

[DLE]

The clutch pack doesn't come with the shims/ You want 1mm and I would say .5 is not enough. You'll have to order the shim kit.

Any reason I could not use the 1mm plate from the original pack? It isn't burned or warped. Also the example given in the manual, would seem to imply that measurement B, is greater then A. This was not the case with the new clutch, as a result, A being .5mm greater then B. So adding 1mm, and using their formula, would make the nominal dimention further skewed, or am I looking at this wrong?

 

[Lamonster]

Any reason I could not use the 1mm plate from the original pack? It isn't burned or warped. Also the example given in the manual, would seem to imply that measurement B, is greater then A. This was not the case with the new clutch, as a result, A being .5mm greater then B. So adding 1mm, and using their formula, would make the nominal dimention further skewed, or am I looking at this wrong?

This is one of those deals where I have to have it hands on, I can't do it in my head but I know you want to wind up with 1mm clearance or I think it was 1.2mm but I would have to check the book on that. You can use the old shims if it comes out right.

 

[DLE]

This is one of those deals where I have to have it hands on, I can't do it in my head but I know you want to wind up with 1mm clearance or I think it was 1.2mm but I would have to check the book on that. You can use the old shims if it comes out right.

Removed the clutch cover and remeasured the pressure plate and disk spring, and the distance from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate, and found that while I had measured it correctly, I had read it wrong. And after thinking about it, realized, those measurements should come out to the same as the measurements of the OEM clutch, as a new disk spring was also part of the disk kit. After measuring, the adjustment plate thickness did come out to exactly what the original clutch had and after installing the plates, the clutch performed great. I made a quick 3 day trip up up the Idaho panhandle, across the North Cascades highway, down I-5 and back across Stevens pass. So it recieved a good workout.
A couple of questions; 1) since I had caught my clutch slipping early, and the friction plates were not burned or warped, nor were the steel driven plates, and the disk spring was well within spec., would it have been possible to measure the clutch free play, get a shim kit, make the proper adjustment and save myself the $500+ expense for a new clutch kit. 2) I do track my fuel economy, not that I am overly concerned about it, but it does give me a snapshot of the overall health of the machine. I did notice that it was dropping off, not a great amount, but some. Nothing else had changed. Now it is back to where it was. Just curious if other riders that have noticed a drop off in economy might be experiencing clutch issues.
In looking back, mine probably started awhile before manifesting itself to the point of becoming really noticible. I also am very cognisant of my RPMs when riding.

 

[Lamonster]

Removed the clutch cover and remeasured the pressure plate and disk spring, and the distance from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate, and found that while I had measured it correctly, I had read it wrong. And after thinking about it, realized, those measurements should come out to the same as the measurements of the OEM clutch, as a new disk spring was also part of the disk kit. After measuring, the adjustment plate thickness did come out to exactly what the original clutch had and after installing the plates, the clutch performed great. I made a quick 3 day trip up up the Idaho panhandle, across the North Cascades highway, down I-5 and back across Stevens pass. So it recieved a good workout.
A couple of questions; 1) since I had caught my clutch slipping early, and the friction plates were not burned or warped, nor were the steel driven plates, and the disk spring was well within spec., would it have been possible to measure the clutch free play, get a shim kit, make the proper adjustment and save myself the $500+ expense for a new clutch kit. 2) I do track my fuel economy, not that I am overly concerned about it, but it does give me a snapshot of the overall health of the machine. I did notice that it was dropping off, not a great amount, but some. Nothing else had changed. Now it is back to where it was. Just curious if other riders that have noticed a drop off in economy might be experiencing clutch issues.
In looking back, mine probably started awhile before manifesting itself to the point of becoming really noticible. I also am very cognisant of my RPMs when riding.

You might have been able to shim it back to spec and saved some bucks what what fun would that be?
I had a clutch that was shimmed wrong but it didn't have any effect on my mileage that I know of. It did have an effect on some of my parts. It's all good now. I'm glad to see you stuck it out in finding the issue. Not too many folks here get their hands dirty that deep into the Spyder. :doorag:

Not enough clearance

 

[billybovine]

Removed the clutch cover and remeasured the pressure plate and disk spring, and the distance from the top of the clutch hub to the last friction plate, and found that while I had measured it correctly, I had read it wrong. And after thinking about it, realized, those measurements should come out to the same as the measurements of the OEM clutch, as a new disk spring was also part of the disk kit. After measuring, the adjustment plate thickness did come out to exactly what the original clutch had and after installing the plates, the clutch performed great. I made a quick 3 day trip up up the Idaho panhandle, across the North Cascades highway, down I-5 and back across Stevens pass. So it recieved a good workout.
A couple of questions; 1) since I had caught my clutch slipping early, and the friction plates were not burned or warped, nor were the steel driven plates, and the disk spring was well within spec., would it have been possible to measure the clutch free play, get a shim kit, make the proper adjustment and save myself the $500+ expense for a new clutch kit. 2) I do track my fuel economy, not that I am overly concerned about it, but it does give me a snapshot of the overall health of the machine. I did notice that it was dropping off, not a great amount, but some. Nothing else had changed. Now it is back to where it was. Just curious if other riders that have noticed a drop off in economy might be experiencing clutch issues.
In looking back, mine probably started awhile before manifesting itself to the point of becoming really noticible. I also am very cognisant of my RPMs when riding.

Thanks for letting us know how you made out. I find this stuff interesting.

 

[DLE]

You might have been able to shim it back to spec and saved some bucks what what fun would that be?
I had a clutch that was shimmed wrong but it didn't have any effect on my mileage that I know of. It did have an effect on some of my parts. It's all good now. I'm glad to see you stuck it out in finding the issue. Not too many folks here get their hands dirty that deep into the Spyder. :doorag:

Not enough clearance

Might I inquire as to what the symptoms were, how you realized it was your clutch. Any unusual sounds, etc. Which way was the clutch shimmed wrong? Too much, or too little. Thanks for your replies.

 

[DragonLorD]

When I roll on the throttle at higher RPMs, the engine revs and the Spyder catches up after a couple of seconds. Assuming I may need a new clutch plates, is anyone aware of after market clutches for the se5?

BRP has known about the weak/slipping clutch since 2009, and put a new clutch in all Spyders since 2011. I bought my 2009 Spyder brand new and they replaced/upgraded a clutch under warranty, it was never a Recall but a well-known issue. Sunshine riders who never open the throttle will never even notice before their clutch slowly and surely smoke itself off - when the warranty is gone.

 

[Lamonster]

Might I inquire as to what the symptoms were, how you realized it was your clutch. Any unusual sounds, etc. Which way was the clutch shimmed wrong? Too much, or too little. Thanks for your replies.

There was no clearance when I checked and I was getting a chatter. After new parts and shimmed properly it was fine. :doorag:

 

[DragonLorD]

Easy way how to find out state of your clutch.
If it is 2010 or older - it needs a new clutch!
Test: bring it at 6000 rpm in 5th gear and fully open, if it reacts and accelerates, your clutch is still fine but will get there eventually. If engine revs up but no or delayed acceleration - it's a clutch time Pal.

 

[DLE]

There was no clearance when I checked and I was getting a chatter. After new parts and shimmed properly it was fine. :doorag:

Reason I ask, is now when I put it in 1st or reverse, the clutch grabs and at an idle will try to move the machine if it is on the level. Really not a problem, just don't have to have the rpm's up to approximately 2400 for it to engage. Slight brake pressure holds it just fine.

 

[Lamonster]

Reason I ask, is now when I put it in 1st or reverse, the clutch grabs and at an idle will try to move the machine if it is on the level. Really not a problem, just don't have to have the rpm's up to approximately 2400 for it to engage. Slight brake pressure holds it just fine.

Mine was the same way and it did get better with time.

 

[Sny]

Reason I ask, is now when I put it in 1st or reverse, the clutch grabs and at an idle will try to move the machine if it is on the level. Really not a problem, just don't have to have the rpm's up to approximately 2400 for it to engage. Slight brake pressure holds it just fine.

Assuming you have an SE what you're describing sounds like it's creeping at idle right?

The centrifugal clutch is engaging too early. Not the same kind of problem being described here.

 

[DLE]

Assuming you have an SE what you're describing sounds like it's creeping at idle right?

The centrifugal clutch is engaging too early. Not the same kind of problem being described here.

After putting in the new clutch kit with the extra two plates plus a thicker steel driven plate, and a new disk spring, I assume it just tightened things up a little, made the clutch somewhat more responsive.

 

[DLE]

Easy way how to find out state of your clutch.
If it is 2010 or older - it needs a new clutch.
Test: bring it at 6000 rpm in 5th gear and fully open, if it reacts and accelerates, your clutch is still fine but will get there eventually. If engine revs up but no or delayed acceleration - it's a clutch time Pal.

Thats when I noticed it. Either when I would hit resume on my cruise control or when I would pull out to pass another vehicle and roll the thottle wide open. The RPM's would jump but the Machine would then slowly catch up with the engine.

 

[rcturner]

What does the new oil nozzle do? Is it already in my 2012 RT?

 

[NancysToy]

What does the new oil nozzle do? Is it already in my 2012 RT?

You have one. It sprays the clutch plates with oil constantly. The Rotax is a dry sump engine, so the clutch plates can't run in an oil bath in the sump to stay wet, they have to be fed with oil constantly. A jet feed of oil is better than old-fashioned splash lube anyway, as it has a controlled volume and less friction.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

You have one. It sprays the clutch plates with oil constantly. The Rotax is a dry sump engine, so the clutch plates can't run in an oil bath in the sump to stay wet, they have to be fed with oil constantly. A jet feed of oil is better than old-fashioned splash lube anyway, as it has a controlled volume and less friction.

Scotty, do you know what years and what models have this feature? And what happens to everyone else??.......... Mike
And I'm guessing this feature only effects the SE trans?

 

[NancysToy]

Mike,
Everything has it, or the clutches wouldn't work. It is what makes the "wet clutch" wet.

 

[rcturner]

You have one. It sprays the clutch plates with oil constantly. The Rotax is a dry sump engine, so the clutch plates can't run in an oil bath in the sump to stay wet, they have to be fed with oil constantly. A jet feed of oil is better than old-fashioned splash lube anyway, as it has a controlled volume and less friction.

Good information.

Thanks

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Everything has it, or the clutches wouldn't work. It is what makes the "wet clutch" wet.

Since they are talking about a NEW oil nozzle; Do we all need one? Thanks