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Another rider needed a jump start, which got me thinking... Here's my better way!

C

Clawman59

New member
So I was on a group ride and one of the riders needed a jump, which was not an easy task, so it got me thinking. If I ever needed a jump on my 2020 Spyder RTL, you need to remove everything from the frunk, a torx bit to get the door off to access the battery, and then try to connect the jumper cables to the battery. So I set out to come up with something better. I searched the internet and found a battery jump post setup on Amazon. I mounted the post behind the cover above the frunk that you remove to get to the coolant reservoir. l ran the positive cable to the battery and the negative cable to the main body ground behind the left radiator. So now, if I ever need a jump or someone else needs theirs to be jumped, I just remove the panel and connect to the post, easy peasy.

image_picker_02AC44CB-228B-47EE-AD75-16C4900CFA57-9769-000002ADA350355A_transformed.jpeg
 
Knizar said:
I agree, something needs to be done to simplify a jump start.
I used the a heavy duty SAE cable that protrudes into my frunk for charging and jump starting
Click to expand...
8G wire or better I hope, the SAE connection rated 80A minimum as well. There are few alternatives, usually just a remote positive terminal & a clean area to clamp ground to frame. '13 ST had remote post OEM - under the frunk lid but above the storage tub, opposite side to the BUDS access just below headlights. Thought BRP was gonna make that standard...
 
Bfromla said:
8G wire or better I hope, the SAE connection rated 80A minimum as well. There are few alternatives, usually just a remote positive terminal & a clean area to clamp ground to frame. '13 ST had remote post OEM - under the frunk lid but above the storage tub, opposite side to the BUDS access just below headlights. Thought BRP was gonna make that standard...
Click to expand...

Point Taken, I used the same gauge wire on the SAE cable as on my battery jump pack.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You did a great job. The only thing I would do is find some way of enclosing the sides so nothing could get across the back side of those studs and ground themselves out. Good luck and good job!!! (y)
 
I was thinking SAE to alligator clips pigtail; I already have fused wire connected from the battery to SAE. Wouldn't it work?
 
pegasus1300 said:
For those of us still sporting the older PRE 3 Cylinder RT just lift your seat. The + terminal is accessible on the right and there is a ground post sticking up on the left, very easy.
Click to expand...

Good info, ^^ but it only applies to the 2012 Spyder's and earlier models! :cautious:

If you've got a 2013 or newer V-Twin powered Spyder, then the battery is no longer under the seat - just like it is on all the 1330's, it's behind a panel in the back wall of the frunk. ;)

However, if all the 2013+ V-Twin powered Spyder models are like my 2013 RT (and if all the Oz V-twin powered Spyders I've seen are anything to go by, then I suspect that the rest are too - happy enough to be corrected tho. ;)) there's a 'remote Battery Terminal block' under the Frunk Lid on the Left hand side (when seated on the Spyder ;) ), below the black removable cover that opening the frunk exposes, the black sorta triangular cover that's just below the headlight - once you take the cover off, you should see a Red placcy cover on the positive terminal, with the negative terminal left naked exposed. It's a handy place to attach accessory wiring too. (y)
 
Clawman59 said:
So I was on a group ride and one of the riders needed a jump, which was not an easy task, so it got me thinking. If I ever needed a jump on my 2020 Spyder RTL, you need to remove everything from the frunk, a torx bit to get the door off to access the battery, and then try to connect the jumper cables to the battery. So I set out to come up with something better. I searched the internet and found a battery jump post setup on Amazon. I mounted the post behind the cover above the frunk that you remove to get to the coolant reservoir. l ran the positive cable to the battery and the negative cable to the main body ground behind the left radiator. So now, if I ever need a jump or someone else needs theirs to be jumped, I just remove the panel and connect to the post, easy peasy.

View attachment 211400
Click to expand...
Is that bracket metal or plastic? I'm interested in doing this mod.
 
If it's like the one I sent back, it's a heavy duty thick plastic like material. Also if mounting in the same place, be aware of post height cause those caps need to lift up over the post to clear.
 
Uticat said:
If it's like the one I sent back, it's a heavy duty thick plastic like material. Also if mounting in the same place, be aware of post height cause those caps need to lift up over the post to clear.
Click to expand...
I was looking at that same spot that Clawman59 installed at, but I was concerned if the height would interfere with the closing of the Frunk. The accessibility is great but I don’t want to create a problem with the frunk hood. Looking on Amazon there are a few different sellers which could mean they're a bit different in configuration.
 
Clawman59 said:
So I was on a group ride and one of the riders needed a jump, which was not an easy task, so it got me thinking. If I ever needed a jump on my 2020 Spyder RTL, you need to remove everything from the frunk, a torx bit to get the door off to access the battery, and then try to connect the jumper cables to the battery. So I set out to come up with something better. I searched the internet and found a battery jump post setup on Amazon. I mounted the post behind the cover above the frunk that you remove to get to the coolant reservoir. l ran the positive cable to the battery and the negative cable to the main body ground behind the left radiator. So now, if I ever need a jump or someone else needs theirs to be jumped, I just remove the panel and connect to the post, easy peasy.

View attachment 211400
Click to expand...
very good idea indeed
 
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