Another oil question

[usmcspyder]

Greetings, I have a question about oil. We recently bought my wife a 2010 RT with 40K miles on it. She drove it for a while because it was serviced at the dealer we bought it from. After a few thousand miles we took it in for a full service. At the end of about a 350 mile drive her Spyder stalled out at a light with the oil light on and would not start. After a few minutes, it started right up and she made it home. After checking her oil it appears that it is low. I presume this is why it stalled out. I assume The local dealer (which is 75 miles away) used BRP oil for the change. Being a little low I need to add some. Ultimately, my question is this. Can I use like a AMSOIL synthetic 20w-50 to "top off" her oil? Is there an issue with mixing viscosity? I will be doing oil changes from now on but I want to use something other than the BRP oil.I appreciate any insight on this as I am trying to get up to speed on these Spyders. I've had Triumphs and HDs but this is our first Spyder in the family.Thanks again.

 

[billybovine]

Greetings, I have a question about oil. We recently bought my wife a 2010 RT with 40K miles on it. She drove it for a while because it was serviced at the dealer we bought it from. After a few thousand miles we took it in for a full service. At the end of about a 350 mile drive her Spyder stalled out at a light with the oil light on and would not start. After a few minutes, it started right up and she made it home. After checking her oil it appears that it is low. I presume this is why it stalled out. I assume The local dealer (which is 75 miles away) used BRP oil for the change. Being a little low I need to add some. Ultimately, my question is this. Can I use like a AMSOIL synthetic 20w-50 to "top off" her oil? Is there an issue with mixing viscosity? I will be doing oil changes from now on but I want to use something other than the BRP oil.I appreciate any insight on this as I am trying to get up to speed on these Spyders. I've had Triumphs and HDs but this is our first Spyder in the family.Thanks again.

When the engine stalls there is no longer any oil pressure and the oil pressure light will come on. The Spyder has no way of knowing how much oil is in it because there is no oil level sensor. In fact it will run with no oil in it. So that is not the reason it stalled. First check the owners manual for the correct way to check the oil. The most important is after a ride fully heated up. If you do not correctly check the oil it may read low and you will overfill it. Anything above the add line is OK, but it is always a good idea to top it off to full, while you are at it. 20W-50 weight oil is incorrect. BRP states, in the owners manual, it must be a motorcycle oil, 5W-40 (many have the view that 10W-40 is acceptable) and must not be rated SM or clutch damage will occur.

If you have a couple days to kill search this forum for oil threads. :joke:

P.S. The likely reason it would not start after stalling, (assuming that it is an SE5, you did not share that info) is that it was in gear and would not start until the brake pedal was held down.

 

[BajaRon]

As stated by billybovine it is unlikely that your oil was low enough to cause the issue you had. I would suspect a faulty oil pressure sensor since it started working again right away.

But as far as adding the 20w-50 Amsoil, it will not be a problem as long as it is the correct MCF, JASO rated product. Do not use regular Automotive oil as it may affect clutch function.

If the oil in your Spyder is the correct type (and I think we can assume it is) then the MCF Amsoil will be completely compatible. Even if you added a full quart (unlikely) it won't raise the viscosity enough to bother.

Let us know what you discover as the problem but I'd get it looked into as a bad oil pressure sensor could leave you stranded.

Good luck!

 

[usmcspyder]

When the engine stalls there is no longer any oil pressure and the oil pressure light will come on. The Spyder has no way of knowing how much oil is in it because there is no oil level sensor. In fact it will run with no oil in it. So that is not the reason it stalled. First check the owners manual for the correct way to check the oil. The most important is after a ride fully heated up. If you do not correctly check the oil it may read low and you will overfill it. Anything above the add line is OK, but it is always a good idea to top it off to full, while you are at it. 20W-50 weight oil is incorrect. BRP states, in the owners manual, it must be a motorcycle oil, 5W-40 (many have the view that 10W-40 is acceptable) and must not be rated SM or clutch damage will occur.

If you have a couple days to kill search this forum for oil threads. :joke:

P.S. The likely reason it would not start after stalling, (assuming that it is an SE5, you did not share that info) is that it was in gear and would not start until the brake pedal was held down.

Thanks Billybovine. I have been spending time trying to learn as much as I can about these bikes. This is a great website to learn from. I just get the feeling I am so far behind the power curve that I think I'm ahead. The bike is a SM5. My apologies for not indicating which bike it is. I checked the oil as defined in the owners manual and it is right on the bottom line of the dipstick.

 

[usmcspyder]

As stated by billybovine it is unlikely that your oil was low enough to cause the issue you had. I would suspect a faulty oil pressure sensor since it started working again right away.

But as far as adding the 20w-50 Amsoil, it will not be a problem as long as it is the correct MCF, JASO rated product. Do not use regular Automotive oil as it may affect clutch function.

If the oil in your Spyder is the correct type (and I think we can assume it is) then the MCF Amsoil will be completely compatible. Even if you added a full quart (unlikely) it won't raise the viscosity enough to bother.

Let us know what you discover as the problem but I'd get it looked into as a bad oil pressure sensor could leave you stranded.

Good luck!

Thanks BajaRon, I should have specified that I was referring to AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oil 20W/50. I will investigate the oil pressure sensor. Like I said, I am really trying to get spun up on this bike. Thanks for the imput.

 

[Chupaca]

Curious..!!

was the oil light on when it stalled or was it on after it stalled..?? It would come on after a stall which could be for a number of reasons. Codes will be stored and you should have the dealer hook it up to buds from time to time for updates and codes that may indicate problems...the best on adding oil is find out what oil was put in and get that. Once you do your own you will have the appropriate oil on hand...:thumbup:

 

[billybovine]

Thanks Billybovine. I have been spending time trying to learn as much as I can about these bikes. This is a great website to learn from. I just get the feeling I am so far behind the power curve that I think I'm ahead. The bike is a SM5. My apologies for not indicating which bike it is. I checked the oil as defined in the owners manual and it is right on the bottom line of the dipstick.

Oil at the bottom of the dipstick is not low enough to cause a problem. But of course you should add some. No apologies needed just a reminder we need all the relevant facts. Your description of what happened was excellent. I would suggest that you put a lot of the information about your Spyder in the signature. That way it will show up everytime you post and you don't have to remember when frustration sets in when having a problem. The helpful info would include model type and year, transmission type SE or SM, a list of mods that were installed. The list of mods can be very important because they sometimes can cause a seemingly unrelated problem. I hope this is the last problem for your Spyder.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Oil at the bottom of the dipstick is not low enough to cause a problem. But of course you should add some. No apologies needed just a reminder we need all the relevant facts. Your description of what happened was excellent. I would suggest that you put a lot of the information about your Spyder in the signature. That way it will show up everytime you post and you don't have to remember when frustration sets in when having a problem. The helpful info would include model type and year, transmission type SE or SM, a list of mods that were installed. The list of mods can be very important because they sometimes can cause a seemingly unrelated problem. I hope this is the last problem for your Spyder.

So Billy, you seem to be missing some info in your signature line. :roflblack:

 

[billybovine]

So Billy, you seem to be missing some info in your signature line. :roflblack:

You caught me. My occasional wisdoms only apply to others. :roflblack:

 

[usmcspyder]

was the oil light on when it stalled or was it on after it stalled..?? It would come on after a stall which could be for a number of reasons. Codes will be stored and you should have the dealer hook it up to buds from time to time for updates and codes that may indicate problems...the best on adding oil is find out what oil was put in and get that. Once you do your own you will have the appropriate oil on hand...:thumbup:

The oil light was on after it stalled. I'm fairly certain the dealer would have put in the recommended 5W/40 oil. My issue is I am too lazy to drive 150 miles to buy a quart of BRP oil. I would spend more on gas than what the oil would cost.

I am trying to recreate what the Mrs said happened. I know the light would go on after it stalled, I am just wondering if she just did something innocuous to have caused this to happen.

 

[BajaRon]

The oil light was on after it stalled. I'm fairly certain the dealer would have put in the recommended 5W/40 oil. My issue is I am too lazy to drive 150 miles to buy a quart of BRP oil. I would spend more on gas than what the oil would cost.

I am trying to recreate what the Mrs said happened. I know the light would go on after it stalled, I am just wondering if she just did something innocuous to have caused this to happen.

Hitting the Kill Switch will definitely get your attention (been there, done that! :yikes. But this is unlikely as it would still be in the Kill position when you tried to restart it.

 

[ulflyer]

Use the 20-50

USMC: No problem using some 20-50. In fact, it will improve the viscosity of the BRP oil. I'd also suggest using that regularly for topping off when needed.

FYI: I found thru repeated lab tests on my '11 RT that using a quart of 20-50 along with the 10-40 Amsoil each oil change made the oil hold up much better til it was changed at 4000 mile.

 

[KX5062]

Also, if it stalled for some reason other than rider error, then the on-board computer (BUDS) maybe needed to be "reset". You have to take the key out of the ignition and away from the bike for a time (I forget the number, and I sure someone else will remember, but say 30 secs). That allows the bike to reset itself.

My wife stalled her Spyder at a gas station several times quickly in a row by accident, hitting kill switch and some other series of errors, and the bike would not start until we did the proxmity key reset. Once we did that, it worked fine and never showed any BUDS code errors.



Semper Fi

 

[usmcspyder]

There is so much to learn about these bikes I wish there was a local class I could take just to learn about them. Thank you for all the responses. All have broadened my knowledge of these bikes.

 

[billybovine]

Also, if it stalled for some reason other than rider error, then the on-board computer (BUDS) maybe needed to be "reset". You have to take the key out of the ignition and away from the bike for a time (I forget the number, and I sure someone else will remember, but say 30 secs). That allows the bike to reset itself.

My wife stalled her Spyder at a gas station several times quickly in a row by accident, hitting kill switch and some other series of errors, and the bike would not start until we did the proxmity key reset. Once we did that, it worked fine and never showed any BUDS code errors.



Semper Fi

I keep hoping this myth will go away. But it keeps getting repeated so often folks think it must be true.
Removing the key and walking away a certain distance. Maybe even shouting out a prayer to the gods of electronic devices may make you feel better but does nothing to make your Syder work better.
The range on the chipped key to the antenna in the key switch is at max an inch.
The DESS unit only looks for the chipped key, after the ignition switch is first turned on.

The actual facts
Some errors clear as soon as the fault that caused them is fixed.
Some errors clear after a period of time being operated after the fault that caused them are fixed.
Some errors clear after the ignition has been turned off for a period of time. Most I believe after the 20-30 second shutdown period. No one has been able to tell me if any that are cleared after the 40 minute ECM shut down period.
There are a few errors that require the Spyder being connected to a computer containing the BUDS software to clear.

 

[DrewNJ]

I think that myth came around because some of the systems on the spyder stay live for a half minute or so after shutdown. The chip in the key has nothing to do with it. I agree this myth needs to go away...

Also, running the oil at the bottom of the zone on the stick is totally acceptable. I run frome the bottom of the zone to the middle of the zone. Anything over the middle is over full IMHO.

 

[La20614]

Hmm kill switch, sat in a parking lot for 30 minutes, of course after being pushed there by a nice fellow who stated he was also a bike rider and couldn't leave me sitting in the road., then a nice GOS friend (after posting a question on facebook) asked me if I checked my kill switch, :gaah: I think while I was sitting at the light I must have moved my hand just enough to bump it and it sure did kill the engine....

 

[billybovine]

Hmm kill switch, sat in a parking lot for 30 minutes, of course after being pushed there by a nice fellow who stated he was also a bike rider and couldn't leave me sitting in the road., then a nice GOS friend (after posting a question on facebook) asked me if I checked my kill switch, :gaah: I think while I was sitting at the light I must have moved my hand just enough to bump it and it sure did kill the engine....

Accidently hitting the kill switch is not hard to do. Done That!!!

 

[BajaRon]

Accidently hitting the kill switch is not hard to do. Done That!!!

Very true. Try it in bumper to bumper traffic doing 70mph in LA! Of course I had to be in the fast lane with no shoulder (just concrete barricades). Only had to get over 4 lanes to get out of traffic. Don't try this at home! :yikes:

 

[nhoj]

I run frome the bottom of the zone to the middle of the zone. Anything over the middle is over full IMHO.

Is that with the motor running?