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Analog RPM not matching digital

BeachSpyder

New member
So I was on a nice ride today and was on my way down to Sandbridge when I looked at the instrument panel, and the RPM needle was stuck at 1000, even though I was doing 50mph in 4th gear. I pulled over at he corner and re-started, but it happened again a couple of miles later, and averaged 1000 rpm less than the digital while malfunctioning. The engine was behaving and sounding normal. The heat read normal, it was 80 degrees outside, I was in normal traffic, and I don't have any engine mods on my 2011 RT. Any ideas?
 
Time for a new cluster. I'm on my fourth. Be sure to record your mileage when you drop it at the dealer (take a dated picture). The new cluster will be at zero.
 
why did it fail?

Time for a new cluster. I'm on my fourth. Be sure to record your mileage when you drop it at the dealer (take a dated picture). The new cluster will be at zero.

Did they tell you what the problem was? I just noticed it for the first time today, and it does not do it consistently. Did other items in your cluster fail as well? Was it the computer in the cluster that actually failed? Thanks for the help.
 
My speedo does that

Strangely enough, I have the same problem but with the speedo. It works OK until I do about 100kms and then the needle points to wherever it likes or sometimes freezes.If I stop for a while it works fine for a few kms but then the issue reappears. Do you think that I need a new cluster as well?

Robert
 
temp

thought mine was fishy the temp said 105 and I know it was closer to 80 and in had been in the shade. is this related? close to 10k miles on an 2012 RT A&C.
 
Had the same promblem, found that needle was scraping on the inside of the cover.If you look at it at an angle with bright light shining on it you may just see where the tip of the needle has left a mark.Normaly happens in hot sunlight.Dealer ordered replacment cluster.
 
Did they tell you what the problem was? I just noticed it for the first time today, and it does not do it consistently. Did other items in your cluster fail as well? Was it the computer in the cluster that actually failed? Thanks for the help.
It is the circuitry in the cluster that is apparently failing. The nature of the problem varies. My first cluster starte with the tach being about 1600 low, intermittently. Then the amount was variable, then it stuck at 1000 low, then it stuck at zero. It got progressively more frequent...sometimes lasting for days. The second cluster was DOA off the shelf, and wouldn't boot up. The third cluster had the tach and speedo both off by a fixed amount. The fourth is just right.

Strangely enough, I have the same problem but with the speedo. It works OK until I do about 100kms and then the needle points to wherever it likes or sometimes freezes.If I stop for a while it works fine for a few kms but then the issue reappears. Do you think that I need a new cluster as well?

Robert
Yes, you will need a new cluster to repair it...if you choose to do so.

thought mine was fishy the temp said 105 and I know it was closer to 80 and in had been in the shade. is this related? close to 10k miles on an 2012 RT A&C.
Not related. The sensor is under the body, and picks up trapped heat. It updates slowly, and is not in a high air flow position. They all heat soak after the Spyder is parked a while, read higher after parked in the sun, read somewhat higher when going down the road, and do not respond very fast. The best indication of how well yours is working is to note the temp when first started after a night in the garage. It should read within a couple of degrees of the garage air temperature.
 
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