has any one done there own wheel aligment it does not look that hard but they say that after you get done you must hook back up to buds. could i drive to the dealer after i get done or would i have to trailer or is it a big deal.
I have a unique awe S#$T experience to tell you about. I've had my Spyder up on my two-post lift many times. One too many. From 3-4 ft above ground, the bike shifted forward enough to fall off the left front lift pad. $900 in parts. I thought Allstate would cover the damage on my comprehensive coverage($0 deductible) because the bike was not being riden at the time. Nope, $1000 collision deductible, no claim filed. $900 out of pocket. While waiting for parts, I built 1/4" plate steel craddles for all four lft posts. Future problem prevented.
Anyway, after putting humpty dumpty back together, I had 1.5" of toe in on the left front, point of impact. Sure did not look like A arms or tierod were damaged, not replaced. Even though the bike rode straight with a minor pull to the right, VSS limp mode resulted. No more warranty. Didn't feel like waiting a week for an appt for alignment and steering sensor reset, was able to align the front end
WITHOUT A TRIP TO THE DEALER FOR A BUDS RESET WITH THEIR TWO CLICKS OF A MOUSE ON THE LAPTOP SCREEN SOFTWARE BUTTONS.
Similar to the service manual procedure for alignment, I used the front hole on the 1" x 5" retangular main frame rail to install a 1/4" x 20 nutsert.
The rear hole is not centered in the frame so I had to drill a new rear hole for the rear nutsert.
Mounted a 1.5" x 60" square stock to the nutserts.
Clamped on two 1" x 60" angle aluminum on both ends with small C clamps.
Squared these up to the main aluminum square stock mounted to the frame.
Strapped down the handlebars perfectly straight, measuring each end of the handlebar to similar bolts on both sides of the cross support under the seat.
Front wheels off, moved the magnetic base laser level from side to side, rotor to rotor, pointing laser front to back to precisely align the front end. Did not need to remove the mud flaps, but did need to remove the A arm plastic covers to access the inner tierod ends.
Result was perfect zero toe-in/out alignment, no VSS limp mode for steering sensor fault, no more pull. Put 1000 miles on the bike since then, no problems. The Service Manual says to reset the SAS and Steering Torque Sensor after every time you fart while riding or after replacing a front suspension component.
If the factory assembled and aligned the bike correctly and then zeroed out the sensors in software, I see no reason why the alignment cannot be restored without the sensor resets. If you have warranty left or money/time to waste, by all means, let the dealer reset the sensors with BUDS. If you don't, give it a shot!!!
Spydersense