I have a question. I'm working on a 2011 Spyder RSS SE5, putting a new stator on, then subsequently removing new stator because it was not putting out enough voltage also. So when I opened the HCM filter housing to get to the bolt in there, I noticed there was no oil in the new filter. I did of course refill with new oil, started the bike, and ran it as per the shop manual. My question - should the bike automatically pump oil through the HCM or did I miss something? I did not drive the the bike or try to put into gear.
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After oil refill and running, no oil in the HCM filter! Did I miss something?
- Thread starter Darrel
- Start date
I'm pretty sure it was in properly, but as suggested, I'll be sure to double check when I put the second new stator in. Also, I did put 4 quarts in. I'm hoping it was just that the filter was not quite right. Thank you for taking time to talk to me.
BajaRon
Well-known member
I did not think it would be lack of oil. But thought I'd ask. You never know. Other than a failed oil pump or just a few seconds of engine running (the HCM filter should fill quickly), a backwards filter is the only thing I can think of. I am hoping that is the problem. Other possibilities could be more challenging.
Agreed
kvilian223
New member
I’m not a mechanic, but from what I know on the SE5 the oil reaches the HCM fully once the system is actually engaged. If you only started the engine and didn’t put it in gear, it’s possible not enough oil circulated through that circuit. I would recheck the oil level and carefully follow the exact procedure in the manual.
BajaRon
Well-known member
So, what was the oil solution?
I honestly could not tell ya the filters were in correctly i sud confirm there was oil going through the filter by slightly loosen the filter bolts
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
So, let's talk about P0562. The ECM, Cluster and DPS all monitor voltage and will individually trigger a P0562. You shouldn't be getting that unless something thinks that voltage is somewhere around 10 volts. The TCM also measures voltage and will set a low voltage fault, but it's a different code. You don't have that. So, because you have a DPS fault, it might indicate that it's just the DPS that is not happy. But first, just to cover all of the bases. The voltage tests are performed at 4000 engine RPM. The stator puts out a 3-phase AC output. Measuring at the 3-wire connector from the stator, you are supposed to get a minimum of 60 VAC each on pins 1-2, 2-3, and 1-3. At the battery, DC voltage should be 13-14 VDC.
If you have that, then we could focus on why the DPS might be the only thing that is unhappy. Of course, you will want to check the fuses for the DPS. Both the main power fuse in the fuse box under the seat - #5 -, as well as the DPS fuse in the front fuse box F3. But, good practice is to test them all, not just look at them.
If all is well, then historically, grounds have also been known to corrode. Your machine is fairly old. There's that main battery ground under the seat right next to that fuse box. Be careful working around that. There is a nut on the bottom side of that bolt. Almost impossible to get to from above unless you bend a wrench, Just pull off all the panels on the right side, remove it all, clean it all, and tighten it all.
Up front, on the left hand side, also awkward to get to, is another main distribution system ground. A lot of wire connections on that one. I believe the DPS ties into that one, but look around and see if there is also one for the DPS separately. Follow the harnesses. Again, remove all panels and such and you'll see it way down low in front, kind of on the left. Clean all of that up, too.
Plus, what Ron asked?
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