After canisterectomy...runs like crap!!! :(

[vendit]

Well, I did my canisterectomy and drove it for about 50 miles tonight. It seems to be surging worse than before I did the canisterectomy. I don't understand why? The sad part is mine ran awesome bfore the update. Even after the update for about 600 miles it ran great, but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

 

[aka1004]

Well, I did my canisterectomy and drove it for about 50 miles tonight. It seems to be surging worse than before I did the canisterectomy. I don't understand why? The sad part is mine ran awesome bfore the update. Even after the update for about 600 miles it ran great, but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

completely stock?

 

[WaltH]

Well, I did my canisterectomy and drove it for about 50 miles tonight. It seems to be surging worse than before I did the canisterectomy. I don't understand why? The sad part is mine ran awesome bfore the update. Even after the update for about 600 miles it ran great, but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

How many miles? Stock?

 

[bone crusher]

Well, I did my canisterectomy and drove it for about 50 miles tonight. It seems to be surging worse than before I did the canisterectomy. I don't understand why? The sad part is mine ran awesome bfore the update. Even after the update for about 600 miles it ran great, but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

IMHO, I think it is best to have your dealership reinstall the update and perhaps not go and reconfigure/rip out things from your bike. I know many here are looking for fixes, but ultimately, your dealership has the best ability to address your problem and take care of your bike. I'm not sure if your operation will void your warranty or not, but I'd go to the dealership and demand they make your bike run the way it did before the update...anything else is just guesswork...

 

[docdoru]

Well, I did my canisterectomy and drove it for about 50 miles tonight. It seems to be surging worse than before I did the canisterectomy. I don't understand why? The sad part is mine ran awesome bfore the update. Even after the update for about 600 miles it ran great, but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13894

 

[vendit]

Running completely stock with about 2500 miles.

 

[ataDude]

Don't overlook the obvious... that you routed/plugged the wrong hoses!

.

 

[Lamonster]

Don't overlook the obvious... that you routed/plugged the wrong hoses!

.

That's what I'm thinking.

 

[Some Guy]

Yo Vendit...give me a call and I'll come over and look at it. I need a good ride anyway...even if it's only 10 miles or so!

 

[Firefly]

Well, I did my canisterectomy and drove it for about 50 miles tonight. It seems to be surging worse than before I did the canisterectomy. I don't understand why? The sad part is mine ran awesome bfore the update. Even after the update for about 600 miles it ran great, but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

I'm thinking you didn't get the right hose plugged and you're sucking in air all the time.

 

[vendit]

I plugged the short hose coming off the bottom of the purge valve with a very tight bolt, and fuel line clamp. Then removed the hose from the evap canister that goes to the gas tank, put an inline fuel filter in (with the flow arrow pointing towards the gas tank, and then ran a 2 ft hose forward and out the bottom pan near the radiator. I thought this was correct, but please advise if it is incorrect.

Thank you!

 

[Firefly]

I plugged the short hose coming off the bottom of the purge valve with a very tight bolt, and fuel line clamp. Then removed the hose from the evap canister that goes to the gas tank, put an inline fuel filter in (with the flow arrow pointing towards the gas tank, and then ran a 2 ft hose forward and out the bottom pan near the radiator. I thought this was correct, but please advise if it is incorrect.

Thank you!

I would think that should work okay--- but I think most of us removed the line from the purge valve and plugged it directly instead of on the other side of the valve.

Not sure if anyone else that has done it has done so on a 'stock' Spyder.

 

[Lamonster]

I plugged the short hose coming off the bottom of the purge valve with a very tight bolt, and fuel line clamp. Then removed the hose from the evap canister that goes to the gas tank, put an inline fuel filter in (with the flow arrow pointing towards the gas tank, and then ran a 2 ft hose forward and out the bottom pan near the radiator. I thought this was correct, but please advise if it is incorrect.

Thank you!

Should be fine then unless it came off on the other end. :dontknow:

 

[Magic Man]

but now seems to be running worse the more I ride it. It was only 66 degrees tonight as well, so heat isn't playing into it.

Anybody have any suggestions??

The old saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" has been around for so long because sometimes it rings very true. :agree:

I'd rehook the "can" and see how it runs first before I went on any other "witch hunts" looking for anything else. :thumbup:

MM

 

[Dragonrider]

Disconnect your battery for 15 min. Then re-connect & let it idle for 10 min - DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE.

If your vacuum line isn't leaking, that should fix it.

 

[vendit]

Thanks for the help. I will try a few of these things.

"some guy" thanks for your offer to come over. I am leaving friday for the weekend, so I guess I will have to look at stuff next week. I will let you know. Thanks again!

Mike

 

[Pilo]

Battery disconnect...?

Disconnect your battery for 15 min. Then re-connect & let it idle for 10 min - DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE.

If your vacuum line isn't leaking, that should fix it.

I did the canisterectomy on my SE5 yesterday but could not see any results for the better.

The gas smell is still there, and I even did a 'high-point' goose-neck in the tank breather extension, to make sure that gasoline will not go past this point, just the fumes.

Many fumes coming out of the hose extension tip at the rear axle and some gas condensation.

Did not notice any improvement in the functioning of the engine, and the erratic idle that sometimes appears when it is really hot is still there.

Do I really have to disconnect the battery, reconnect it after a while, let id idle for 15 minutes and cool down for another 15 minutes in order to reset the fuel mapping...?

Saludos, Pilo

 

[bone crusher]

Totally agree...

The old saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it" has been around for so long because sometimes it rings very true. :agree:

I'd rehook the "can" and see how it runs first before I went on any other "witch hunts" looking for anything else. :thumbup:

MM

 

[BajaRon]

I did the canisterectomy on my SE5 yesterday but could not see any results for the better.

The gas smell is still there, and I even did a 'high-point' goose-neck in the tank breather extension, to make sure that gasoline will not go past this point, just the fumes.

Many fumes coming out of the hose extension tip at the rear axle and some gas condensation.

Did not notice any improvement in the functioning of the engine, and the erratic idle that sometimes appears when it is really hot is still there.

Do I really have to disconnect the battery, reconnect it after a while, let id idle for 15 minutes and cool down for another 15 minutes in order to reset the fuel mapping...?

Saludos, Pilo

The canister removal can only correct a purge valve issue. If the purge valve is not the issue (as in a rough idle when the engine is hot) then it won't make any difference at all.

The rough idle with a hot engine is probably the anti-knock ignition retard coming into play. Removing the canister won't have any effect on this.

If the canister-ectomy is done properly I can't imagine how some are getting all these other effects.

Maybe it's like washing your car causes it to rain....???

 

[krb1945]

you may have a lose...

hose clamp. The factory clamps don't seem to be as effective as the old trusty screw type clamps. I've been changing all of ours to the screw type. The gas smell is now gone from two of them. The 3rd one still smells but I suspect that is because I have a tendency to top the tank up all the time./Ken