• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

After canisterectomy...runs like crap!!! :(

hose clamp. The factory clamps don't seem to be as effective as the old trusty screw type clamps. I've been changing all of ours to the screw type. The gas smell is now gone from two of them. The 3rd one still smells but I suspect that is because I have a tendency to top the tank up all the time./Ken

I have always topped my Spyder off to the hilt. Lamont gets on me for it and I am not recommending anyone else do it. But it works great for me.

Everyone else is running on fumes and I've got another 20~25 miles left in the tank.

I have never had problems with fumes or gas smell with or without the canister installed.
 
I have always topped my Spyder off to the hilt. Lamont gets on me for it and I am not recommending anyone else do it. But it works great for me.

Everyone else is running on fumes and I've got another 20~25 miles left in the tank.

I have never had problems with fumes or gas smell with or without the canister installed.

I'm with you on that Ron. I just can't seem to bring myself to withdraw the gas pump as soon as it clicks off. Must some sort of obsessive-compulsive thing. :D

Bruce
 
I'm with you on that Ron. I just can't seem to bring myself to withdraw the gas pump as soon as it clicks off. Must some sort of obsessive-compulsive thing. :D

Bruce

You hit it right on the head! Ain't it wonderful? :D:D

The way I look at it, I paid for the whole tank and I'm going to use as much of it as I can. I know it's a twisted perspective...but it's ALL MINE and I'm going to stick with it till something blows up!

In my opinion, Chicken Little is alive and well, and she may even be right one of these days. But I'm going to break the rules as long as I can! :roflblack:
 
Thanks for the help. I will try a few of these things.

"some guy" thanks for your offer to come over. I am leaving friday for the weekend, so I guess I will have to look at stuff next week. I will let you know. Thanks again!

Mike
After you put everything back the way it was, if it still runs bad, look at the carb and make sure all of the hoses are in place. I had one of the tubes pull out of the carb with the hose still attached and this caused me similar problems. This happened when I changed the spark plugs of all things. When I found the errant tube I took the hose off of it, tapped it back in place, and put the hose back on it. I can't believe I am the only one who has experienced this problem. Note: I am not even sure that we called this thing a carb any longer. But it is the area under the airbox where if we had a carbuerator, it would live in that area.
 
I am not even sure that we called this thing a carb any longer. But it is the area under the airbox where if we had a carbuerator, it would live in that area.

Throttle body


The components of a typical throttle body


In fuel injected engines, the throttle body is the part of the air intake system that controls the amount of air flowing into the engine, in response to driver accelerator pedal input in the main. The throttle body is usually located between the air filter box and the intake manifold, and it is usually attached to, or near, the mass airflow sensor.
The largest piece inside the throttle body is the throttle plate, which is a butterfly valve that regulates the airflow.
On many cars, the accelerator pedal motion is communicated via the throttle cable, to activate the throttle linkages, which move the throttle plate. In cars with electronic throttle control (also known as "drive-by-wire"), an electric motor controls the throttle linkages and the accelerator pedal connects not to the throttle body, but to a sensor, which sends the pedal position to the Engine Control Unit (ECU). The ECU determines the throttle opening based on accelerator pedal position and inputs from other engine sensors.

Throttle body showing throttle position sensor. The throttle cable attaches to the curved, black portion on the left. The copper-coloured coil visible next to this returns the throttle to its idle position when the pedal is released.


When the driver presses on the accelerator pedal, the throttle plate rotates within the throttle body, opening the throttle passage to allow more air into the intake manifold. Usually an airflow sensor measures this change and communicates with the ECU. The ECU then increases the amount of fuel being sent to the fuel injectors in order to obtain the desired air-fuel ratio. Often a throttle position sensor (TPS) is connected to the shaft of the throttle plate to provide the ECU with information on whether the throttle is in the idle position, wide-open throttle (WOT) position, or somewhere in between these extremes.
Throttle bodies may also contain valves and adjustments to control the minimum airflow during idle. Even in those units that are not "drive-by-wire" there will often be a small electric motor driven valve, the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), that the ECU uses to control the amount of air that can bypass the main throttle opening.

Image of BMW S65 from the e92 BMW M3 showing eight individual throttle bodies


Many cars have a single throttle body, however more than one may be used, chained together by linkages, to improve throttle response. At the extreme, high performance cars, such as the BMW M1, and high performance motorcycles, like the Suzuki Hayabusa, have a separate throttle body for each cylinder. These are often referred to as "individual throttle bodies", or ITBs.
A throttle body is somewhat analogous to the carburetor in a non-injected engine. Carburetors combine the functionality of the throttle body and the fuel injectors into one, that is, to modulate the amount of air flow, and to combine air and fuel together. Cars with throttle body injection (called TBI by General Motors and CFI by Ford) locate the fuel injectors in the throttle body, thereby allowing an older engine to be converted from carburetor to fuel injection without significantly altering the engine design.
 
After you put everything back the way it was, if it still runs bad, look at the carb and make sure all of the hoses are in place. I had one of the tubes pull out of the carb with the hose still attached and this caused me similar problems. This happened when I changed the spark plugs of all things. When I found the errant tube I took the hose off of it, tapped it back in place, and put the hose back on it. I can't believe I am the only one who has experienced this problem. Note: I am not even sure that we called this thing a carb any longer. But it is the area under the airbox where if we had a carbuerator, it would live in that area.

That's the problem! You're running a carburator on a Fuel Injected engine! :roflblack:

Seriously, they are called throttle bodies because all they do is meter the incoming air. Fuel is added at the cylinder by high pressure injectors, thus, fuel injection.

You'd think they could leave well enough alone. But carburators are a dying breed. Our children probably won't even know what they are.

P.S. I see Lamont beat me to it while I was typing....Why you do that to me Lamont?
 
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