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Added oil to Spyder today.

Yeochief

New member
I'm planning a ride to meet up with family later this week and also planning on meeting a mob of Spyder Lovers in Lake Placid on Saturday. :yes: I took :ani29: out for a ride and stopped at the shop I rent to check the oil level. After checking a couple of times, I was sure that the oil level was just at the ADD mark on the dip stick. Only a thousand miles since the 600 mile service at the dealer. Went to Auto Zone for a quart of Castrol Power RS Racing 4T SAE 10W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. Used the owners manual to ensure I got what I was supposed to. They didn't have 5W-40, but it shouldn't be a big deal to add .5 qt 10W-40. :yikes:$9.99 + tax for the quart. I put a little less than half the bottle into :spyder2:. Will check the level after my next ride.
 
10-40 is what your supposed to use anyway. :thumbup: Is full synthetic what your dealer but in, or was it blend.
 
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Oil?

I have no idea, the repair invoice for the 600 mile service just lists BRP Spyder Oil Change Kit (SE5) 991 for $89.99. I'm going to check with BaJa Ron about getting the filters, seals and Amsoil so I can change the oil myself. I got a lift from Harbor Freight for $60 and it lifts :spyder2: just fine once I locate the balance point, That and some stands, and I will be in fat city.
 
Oil

I have no idea, the repair invoice for the 600 mile service just lists BRP Spyder Oil Change Kit (SE5) 991 for $89.99. I'm going to check with BaJa Ron about getting the filters, seals and Amsoil so I can change the oil myself. I got a lift from Harbor Freight for $60 and it lifts :spyder2: just fine once I locate the balance point, That and some stands, and I will be in fat city.


You did good and made a good decision to go Amsoil !!!
 
10-40 is what your supposed to use anyway. :thumbup: Is full synthetic what your dealer but in, or was it blend.

:lecturef_smilie: Uh-uh!

Use the XPS SYNTHETIC BLEND OIL (SUMMER GRADE) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W 40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container.

NOTICE​
To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use a motor oil meeting the API service SM or ILSACGF-4classification. Clutch slippage will
occur.

 
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I'm planning a ride to meet up with family later this week and also planning on meeting a mob of Spyder Lovers in Lake Placid on Saturday. :yes: I took :ani29: out for a ride and stopped at the shop I rent to check the oil level. After checking a couple of times, I was sure that the oil level was just at the ADD mark on the dip stick. Only a thousand miles since the 600 mile service at the dealer. Went to Auto Zone for a quart of Castrol Power RS Racing 4T SAE 10W-40 Full Synthetic Motorcycle Oil. Used the owners manual to ensure I got what I was supposed to. They didn't have 5W-40, but it shouldn't be a big deal to add .5 qt 10W-40. :yikes:$9.99 + tax for the quart. I put a little less than half the bottle into :spyder2:. Will check the level after my next ride.

The you added oil that has an API SERVICE of GL. This is a good oil and can be used in your Spyder. This oil will mix ok with the BRP oil. Check your oil about every 500 miles.

Mike
 
They say to use 5w-40, But its not easy to find it, And if you look at the temperature charts that they post there are other weights they recommend also,. And their summer weight oil doesn't even tell you if it is indeed 5w-40.:dontknow:
 
The blended oil that BRP sells for the Spyder is 10w-40. The reason BRP makes 5w-40 is for snowmobiles that experience a much colder environment than the Spyder. How many of us start our Spyder after sitting all night in sub zero temperatures?

10w-40 is just fine for the Spyder, especially in the relatively warmer temperatures most of us run in.

Plus, the closer the lower and higher number, the more stable the oil is. 10w is a pretty thin oil. The lower number is viscosity when cold. The higher number is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, which is where you're running nearly all the time.
 
Now I'm confused. I knew the manual states to use 5w-40, but I also thought (like Baja already said) the blend was 10w-40. :dontknow: Sorry, If I was wrong.
 
Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with the use of 10W-40. I also believe, although we have no proof of it, that the summer weight blend is 10W-40. Without the viscosity or grade ratings, who is to know for sure, though. BRP really missed the mark when they stopped properly marking their oils. All I wanted to do was clear up the misunderstanding that BRP actually specifies 10W-40. In writing, they still stick with the slightly lighter 5W-40. With a full syn, the lighter oil doesn't worry me, but with a blend, I think it is a tiny bit riskier. Still, no lubrication-related failures have been reported here, no matter what the oil. Just make sure you have some in the oil tank...and go ride!
 
Scotty's got it right

Far as most of us know, no Spyder failures related to a failuyre of the oil. I use to be an absolute nurd on the oil. Particularly when I had two Rabbit diesels. VW even told me they'd cancel the warranty if I used NAPA oil filters (1/2 price of VW's.) I talked with NAPA's warranty lawyer at the time, they are still based in Marietta (or Smyrna). He said VW didn't want people using generic filters due to possible problems but that NAPA stands 100% behind anything they sell and let the bastards sue - they'll lose. When Mobil came out with Mobil 1, lots of auto makers, hard as it is to believe, would nullify your warranty if you used Mobil syn. I asked the Mobil rep at the Redding Air Show what the company's policy was. He said it was unconditional. If some reliable sorce said the oil caused it, they'd investigate and pay, "in most cases". We had a Sterling car for years, they said, don't use it, it's unproven, etc. We used it for about 8 years and it was superb. I put synthetic in several bikes and no problems. Harley said only to use their synthetic - bull. Used Rotilla (or is it Rotella?) diesel for years and it's still in my scooter and Magna. No additives to mess up the clutch. When I heard BRP said semi-syn, I thought "what a bunch of jerks." But with the rediculous interval of 3,000 miles, you probably could use the oil out of tuna fish cans and be ok!! Use what ever meets the spec, save the extra money you would have spent on synthetic and buy something useful like another LED or something.
No doubt syn is better, don't get me wrong, I love the stuff. But every 3.000 miles? No way.
The BS thrown at the car/truck/motorcycle buyer never stops, but this "Blog is stopping, because it's coming up on 50, going to 60 today and I'm outa here. in 30 seconds.
Tuck
 
The blended oil that BRP sells for the Spyder is 10w-40. The reason BRP makes 5w-40 is for snowmobiles that experience a much colder environment than the Spyder. How many of us start our Spyder after sitting all night in sub zero temperatures?

10w-40 is just fine for the Spyder, especially in the relatively warmer temperatures most of us run in.

Plus, the closer the lower and higher number, the more stable the oil is. 10w is a pretty thin oil. The lower number is viscosity when cold. The higher number is the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, which is where you're running nearly all the time.

:agree: Just go to the Amsoil site comparing their oil to the others and you will see no matter which brand of oil the test results favor 10W40 over 5W40.
 
I,m ordering 8 quarts of Amsoil (Free 6 month Wholesale deal) and then puttin on 100 miles down to the Ocean and back- Gonna get near 50 Degrees but still wear the thermal suit cause its comfy!!!nojoke
 
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