One would think so. Thanks, Billy.For others reading this replacing the horn for another one has nothing to do with the CAN BUS.
Yes there is a lot of stuff on that circuit. Sure it's a good idea to use a relay. Also how rugged is the horn switch to handle the extra current? :dontknow: But on the practical side a lot of people seem to have connected their horn without any ill effects. Any problems should have showed up by now.
... and the Load Shedding Relay is on the same fuse as the horn. But after reading it again, I see your point.So you see, there is a lot of communication going on among the various modules, but only to the modules. The modules then control everything else, some by controlling power directly such as the turn signals, and some by controlling relays like the load shedding relay which is what controls power to the headlights, grip heaters, etc.
Clarification on CAN-BUS.
The CAN-BUS protocol is about messages not devices.
That is, every device on the bus broadcasts it's messages with specific identifiers and every device listens to all messages ignoring all but those having the specific identifiers of interest.
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Conceptual explanation of the relationship between CAN-BUS and OBD-II.
CAN-BUS is how the Spyder talks* to itself.
OBD-II is how the Spyder talks* to us.
* talks using CAN-BUS messages.
If you understand LAN protocols, each device has an address.
In a packet of data sent from anything it has a address in the header for the destination component.
It's not that the VSS doesn't talk to the radio, the radio actually does see the packet the VSS sent but it just ignores it as the packet is not addresses to it.
Bob
Clarification on CAN-BUS.
The CAN-BUS protocol is about messages not devices.
Adding a note about OBD-II and Spyders. OBD-II requires certain standard messages for specific emission certifications. Spyders aren't required to meet those certifications (note the lack on your under-seat stickers) and therefore is using manufacturer-unique OBD-II messages (allowed by the standard). Which I learned at the cost of $100 in hardware and software.![]()
Clarification on CAN-BUS.
==========
Conceptual explanation of the relationship between CAN-BUS and OBD-II.
CAN-BUS is how the Spyder talks* to itself.
OBD-II is how the Spyder talks* to us.
* talks using CAN-BUS messages.
The Spyder CanBus system is much the same as industrial control systems, right? And there are a bunch of them! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_o...tion_protocols

Just a question, I removed the radio box on the right side, because I got my bike molded for an single din stereo. There was a silver braid connected to my antenna, I left it loose, installed my radio and speakers, next I removed my old led strips and added new ones. When I put everything back together, I don't have tail lights, head lights and brake lights but the bike cranks and everything else works. I'm confused. You are very knowledgeable can you help me please?There has been some misunderstanding here about what the Can Bus is and isn't on our Spyders, and what it affects. CAN refers to Controller Area Network. Can Bus generally refers to a communication protocol among various components on the Spyder. Here is a overview of the network.
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Brake lights, tail lights, and headlights all are powered by 12 volt lines controlled by switches and relays. Turn signals are the only lights tied into the Can Bus, and then not directly. TS are operated by the cluster which communicates with the left side multi-switch via the Can Bus network.
Looking at the diagram you can see that all the various controllers communicate over the network, the engine, the stability system, the power steering, the radio, the left switch, and so on. But they do not all communicate with every other one. The engine doesn't talk to the MSL or the radio. But the MSL talks to the radio and to the cluster. The VSS talks to the ECM but not the radio. Nobody on the network talks to the brake light, but the brake light switch is one of the inputs to the ECM, which has as one of its functions cruise control. The engine and transmission talk to each other, and the MSL talks to the SE transmission module, which is how the shifting is controlled.
So you see, there is a lot of communication going on among the various modules, but only to the modules. The modules then control everything else, some by controlling power directly such as the turn signals, and some by controlling relays like the load shedding relay which is what controls power to the headlights, grip heaters, etc.
This is probably somewhat rambling and confusing to some, but hopefully it'll help us all understand the role of the Can Bus a little bit better. If I didn't make something clear enough ask away.
Just a question, I removed the radio box on the right side, because I got my bike molded for an single din stereo. There was a silver braid connected to my antenna, I left it loose, installed my radio and speakers, next I removed my old led strips and added new ones. When I put everything back together, I don't have tail lights, head lights and brake lights but the bike cranks and everything else works. I'm confused. You are very knowledgeable can you help me please?
Sorry, I'll check the dates next time. My leds are a kit and they are all plugged. So If they polarity is wrong, it comes from the factory. It doesn't explains why everything else works.Just be aware that this thread/that post you quoted was started/went up quite a few years ago now, and the originator of the thread/the post you quoted hasn't logged on to the Forum for a while, altho AFAIK, he's still around and looks in occasionally. So while the discussion following that initial post may help you and someone else may answer (not me tho, sorry, but my realm of expertise these days is elsewhere, I come from/got my auto engineering quals back in the days of points & carby jets!) you probably don't want to hold your breath expecting an answer from @IdahoMtnSpyder. He might drop in, but don't count on it!
This is why it ALWAYS pays to check the date on the first post in any thread AND at least the last few posts before replying &/or asking a question of any of the members posting in the thread. It's usually a good idea to try and keep all the related info in the one thread if at all possible/reasonable (otherwise we'll end up with a multitude of partly helpful threads like all the oil & tire threads), just don't expect direct answers/rapid replies/possibly any reply from members who haven't been around for a while. You can see when a member/poster joined and when they last visited the Forum by clicking on their Avatar pic, the one in the round window above their username.
That said, as has been mentioned elsewhere, LED's only work if you've connected their polarity the right way around, and many of us have come across similar issues to those you describe simply because an LED was installed with the polarity backwards. This can be a right pain to track down if you've installed a bunch of individual LED's, but when you've got a string of them in a circuit, often all it takes is one dud, or one installed the wrong way to stop that circuit from working at all... sorta like some Christmas tree lights. So have you checked that ALL your LED's are working and connected the right way around??![]()
Sorry, I'll check the dates next time. My leds are a kit and they are all plugged. So If they polarity is wrong, it comes from the factory. It doesn't explains why everything else works.
My leds works find, my headlights, tail lights and brake lights in the back don't work. Fuse F1 and F2 has 3 volts. That's my problem.Have you actually tried swapping the polarity anywhere?? Maybe even on the Spyder end?
More than one member here has been caught out by the Spyder's wiring being the reverse of what it's meant to be &/or what the documentation says it should be, and swapping the polarity shouldn't hurt the LED's either individually or as a kit; but the bottom line is that if you've got one LED or a string of LED's connected the wrong way around, they just won't work, even if the filament globes you just took out of that circuit all worked a moment before.
So again, I'd suggest you check the polarity of your LED's - heck, if you're concerned, just connect the + & - wires of the kit &/or each individual LED in turn to a suitably fused lead direct from the battery; and if they don't work one way, try them the other way! At the very least, you'll establish that the LED's in the kit DO actually work... or not! And along the way, you juuuust might find out why they don't work the way you've currently got them installed.
It shouldn't take long, and it shouldn't hurt anything - LED's connected with their polarity the wrong way around don't blow, they just don't work, exactly what you've told us they're doing at the moment. And even if they still don't work, you will have positively exclude polarity as being an issue.![]()