A few Questions after performing my oil change

[otter28169]

I was wondering how the used oil looked when others had done an oil change. I had 5000 miles on my oil and it looked like tar. When I went to pull the drain plugs the crankcase drain plug was so tight I had to use a second wrench to get enough leverage on it to break it free. The manual states that the plugs are to be torqued to 15 ft/lbs. I am concerned that it looks like the oil changes I have paid for at recommended service intervals may not have been done. I will not mention names, I am just wondering.

 

[DrewNJ]

This is one of the main reasons I do my own servicing. At least I know the work was done, and done correctly.
Your oil should not be tar like and there is no reason the drain plugs should have been tightened by a gorilla....
Sorry to hear man.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

 

[NZSpyderRyder]

Tight drain plug

This is only a suggestion as I haven't attempted my own oil change yet, but is the erin plug made of steel and the sump case aluminium ? or visa versa ? If this is the case then the two dissimilar metals do create a bit of chemistry that makes them go very tight, a bit like corrosion and it is that bond that you are breaking.

 

[Jeriatric]

Grrrr

If you haven't tossed it. Does it smell burned? :bbq:

If you still have it. Stir it vigorously, then smell it.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's the thing..!!

On the oil tank the metals are alike. On the engine the case is aluminum the plug is steel. Tapping on them helps break them loose. Hot oil can form a varnish that act like loctite. In too many cases mechanics don't bother to torque them but for fear of oil leaks or not having changed the crush washers overtighten them. Depending on your oil, after 5,000 miles should come out looking like a dark maple syrup. If it came out looking like tar it would be wise to also check the filter screen in the oil tank...:thumbup:

 

[ulflyer]

Otter, I did all my oil changes on my previous '11 at 4000 miles and the oil, no matter what brand I had used, was always very black. I wouldn't describe it as "tar" but looking at it in the drain pan it was BLACK. It was also very thin when drained while hot or very warm as the viscosity starts breaking down significantly by 2000 miles.

 

[otter28169]

I replaced the crush washers, and tightened to spec. Just the other day one of the guys I work with asked me if the spyder would "puff smoke" when I was shifting. At the point where I was passing him I was on it pretty hard, so I assumed it was normal (this was after the oil change). Now I am kind of wondering. I think I am going to do all of my own service from here on out.
Both of the drain plugs were hard to remove. I did consider electrolysis as a cause for the crank drain plug, but this seemed a little to extreme.
Next bit of work is going to be new brake pads, and adjusting the parking brake. Back to the manual..........

Just sayin'............

 

[bruiser]

I had to go to a hex head plug on the wife's Spyder. The previous dealer screwed up the socket head plug. Note that drain plugs will "seize" over time due to heating and cooling. I have found that a good allen head socket on a long handle 3/8 drive ratchet works very well. Using a "sharp" pulling action or jerk on the ratchet will break the plug loose. Like Chupaca said, using a ball peen hammer and giving a good "rap" will break the tension. Just be careful to not distort the opening to the socket head. I used that method on hydraulic solenoid blocks when trying to remove the plugs.

 

[MikeinGA]

Otter, I did all my oil changes on my previous '11 at 4000 miles and the oil, no matter what brand I had used, was always very black. I wouldn't describe it as "tar" but looking at it in the drain pan it was BLACK. It was also very thin when drained while hot or very warm as the viscosity starts breaking down significantly by 2000 miles.

I look for two things in the drain oil thickness and for dirt, metal, and water. I check thickness by how much time it takes for two oz. of the drain oil to go through a glass tube compared to new oil. For the dirt, metal, and water. I let a quart of drain oil sit in a round bottle sealed glass container and settle out the bottom. If the thickness doesn't look good and/or it has to much dirt, metal, or metal in it I will send out for analysis. This can show if the oil is holding up or does the engine has a problem. I change my oil in my 2011 RS-S between 5,000 and 6,000 miles. I change my oil in my car and SUV every 10,000. I use Amsoil products in all my equipment. That's IMHO.

Mike

 

[AZCowboy]

Oil change

I was wondering how the used oil looked when others had done an oil change. I had 5000 miles on my oil and it looked like tar. When I went to pull the drain plugs the crankcase drain plug was so tight I had to use a second wrench to get enough leverage on it to break it free. The manual states that the plugs are to be torqued to 15 ft/lbs. I am concerned that it looks like the oil changes I have paid for at recommended service intervals may not have been done. I will not mention names, I am just wondering.

I found that they don't drain the oil they pump it out instead. I had the same problem with the factory drain plug. I replaced then (both engine and oil tank) with Gold Plug they have a strong magnet plus has a regular nut end which works great. I have a SE5 and drained the oil tank, took out both oil filters and wiped it with a rag. When I took out the drain plug to the engine you wouldn't believe how much dirty oil came out. But go to http://goldplug.com/ they have drain plugs for just about everything. Hope this is of help. RJ :spyder2: