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998cc VS 1330cc engines

Firefly, where did you get the numbers: My 2015 RT has an 8300 rpm rev limiter, why would the red line be 7,250 rpm. I ask because I'm a relatively new spyder owner, and just don't know.

David

I think I may have made an assumption or two, but I would be interested in where your numbers came from, if you don't mind. Thanks.

I got the numbers from BRP spec sheets.
I don't see where it says the redline is 7,250.


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Warlock, That spec sheet only shows Peak Power & Max Torque, it doesn't show how high you can actually REV the motor, that's what the Red-line is for, & there IS a difference between Peak Power & Maximum Revs!! ;)

Just as an aside, there's an often used saying around here to the effect that Power is How Fast you can hit a tree; Torque is How Far you will move it when you hit it!! :shocked:

Revving your engine beyond whatever revs deliver Peak Power or Max Torque might not add a heap more acceleration or grunt to whatever you are doing because those are the points where the engine will be at its most capable in delivering power or torque, but at the cost of decreasing efficiency revving harder can add to your speed as you (slowly?) wind the revs out beyond the Peak Power Revs right out to the Red-line - hey, if there wasn't anything controlling that (like was often the case on old school non-electronic motors) you could probably keep on revving harder than the red-line & going even faster & faster, at least until the valves started bouncing or the engine blew up!! ;)
 
Warlock, That spec sheet only shows Peak Power & Max Torque, it doesn't show how high you can actually REV the motor, that's what the Red-line is for, & there IS a difference between Peak Power & Maximum Revs!! ;)

Just as an aside, there's an often used saying around here to the effect that Power is How Fast you can hit a tree; Torque is How Far you will move it when you hit it!! :shocked:

Revving your engine beyond whatever revs deliver Peak Power or Max Torque might not add a heap more acceleration or grunt to whatever you are doing because those are the points where the engine will be at its most capable in delivering power or torque, but at the cost of decreasing efficiency revving harder can add to your speed as you (slowly?) wind the revs out beyond the Peak Power Revs right out to the Red-line - hey, if there wasn't anything controlling that (like was often the case on old school non-electronic motors) you could probably keep on revving harder than the red-line & going even faster & faster, at least until the valves started bouncing or the engine blew up!! ;)

I knew it didn't show redline. He wanted to see where Firefly got his numbers. Peak engine rpm differs from red line rpms
David
 
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I'd heard that the 2013 RS was cut back to 100 hp. Got a friend that has a 13 model and it seems not as strong as the earlier models.
David
That's true...
They dropped the 990 series engines after 2012, and started using the 991 across the entire line-up.
 
I got the numbers from BRP spec sheets.
I don't see where it says the redline is 7,250.


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Interestingly enough , do the power to weight ratio on the rs vs the f3 and its going to come down to handling/rider. the f3 does not have a measurable advantage otherwise ....... But doing 25,000 miles on a 2012 RTS and now test riding a new 1330 RTS , these are 2 vastly different motors.
 
Just FYI.....

2012 RT:
Power: 100 hp @7500 RPM
Torque: 80 lb.-ft @ 5000 rpm
Weight: 930 lbs


2017 RT
Power: 115 hp @ 7250 RPM (15% increase)
Torque: 96 lb-ft. @ 5000 RPM (20% increase)
Weight: 1012 lbs (9% increase)
---------------------------------

2012 RS:
Power: 106 hp @8500 RPM
Torque: 77 lb.-ft @ 6250 RPM
Weight: 700 lbs

2017 F3S:

Power: 115 hp @7250 RPM (9% increase)
Torque: 96 lb.-ft @ 5000 RPM (25% increase)
Weight: 900 lbs (29% increase)



If we're comparing stats:-)

0-60 Times
GS/RS pre 2013, 990 series engine, 4.5 seconds (2009 model tested)
RS 2013 onwards, 991 series engine, 4.6 seconds (2013 model tested)
F3, exact model not specified, 4.8 seconds (2015 model tested)

So as we've noted before, as the years have gone by Spyders have got fatter and slower - I can relate to that:-)
 
If we're comparing stats:-)

0-60 Times
GS/RS pre 2013, 990 series engine, 4.5 seconds (2009 model tested)
RS 2013 onwards, 991 series engine, 4.6 seconds (2013 model tested)
F3, exact model not specified, 4.8 seconds (2015 model tested)

So as we've noted before, as the years have gone by Spyders have got fatter and slower - I can relate to that:-)
. :roflblack:

Brilliant, I am not sure where the data is from or if it was controlled, but it does answer the original question. CONCLUSION:"We are splitting hairs here! "

But the closing comment may be may be the most accurate statement on this entire thread.

Joe
 
If we're comparing stats:-)

0-60 Times
GS/RS pre 2013, 990 series engine, 4.5 seconds (2009 model tested)
RS 2013 onwards, 991 series engine, 4.6 seconds (2013 model tested)
F3, exact model not specified, 4.8 seconds (2015 model tested)

So as we've noted before, as the years have gone by Spyders have got fatter and slower - I can relate to that:-)

Was this on a track under a controlled environment? Multiple runs averaged? Same rider?
0-60 times will vary greatly..... especially from rider to rider. The takeoff is everything. I've run both my GS and RT on the strip at Spyderfest.. neither I would consider 'fast'. The GS was pretty quick though.. depending on the takeoff. With the F3 you're probably better off starting in 2nd gear.

Last time at the drags at Spyderfest there was a husband and wife.. both on F3's.. I believe semi-auto's who were beating everyone. But again.. the rider and the takeoff will make or break the whole race. The low center of gravity along with tamed-down nanny allows the F3 to take corners faster....if that's your thing.
 
Was this on a track under a controlled environment? Multiple runs averaged? Same rider?
0-60 times will vary greatly..... especially from rider to rider. The takeoff is everything. I've run both my GS and RT on the strip at Spyderfest.. neither I would consider 'fast'. The GS was pretty quick though.. depending on the takeoff. With the F3 you're probably better off starting in 2nd gear.

Last time at the drags at Spyderfest there was a husband and wife.. both on F3's.. I believe semi-auto's who were beating everyone. But again.. the rider and the takeoff will make or break the whole race. The low center of gravity along with tamed-down nanny allows the F3 to take corners faster....if that's your thing.


and the variance in spyder ryders weight:yikes:
 
If you buy a vehicle based upon it's 0 to 60 times: that about like buying it because you like how their cruise control operates... :shocked:
It's only one very small factor...
 
If you buy a vehicle based upon it's 0 to 60 times: that about like buying it because you like how their cruise control operates... :shocked:
It's only one very small factor...

:firstplace: OR how you drive in relation to tire wear, MPG and Miles between fillups. I love my ST but sure would like to get more miles per tank of gas without trying to baby my beast.
 
I just traded a 13 for a 19. The 13 had the twin, and the 19 has the Ace. Even though the new 19's are stripped versions of the Limited, and I don't recommend ANYONE buy one if you expect all the bells and whistles, I really like the Ace motor. The problem with the twins is they scream all the time. The triple barely makes a whimper. At 62 mph the twin turns 5,200 rpms. The triple turn 3,200 at the same speed. To me, that's more like it. I've never had it past 4,000 because of the speeds involved.

The Ace is the engine. To bad the bike itself isn't.
 
I'm new to spyders (1 season), so some day I may choose to get out the wallet and move up from my '10 RS. I've gotten used to being in tune with the unique powerband of the RS. It is so different than any other bike I've owned. The power is sufficient to keep me smiling... either 1 up or 2 up. I paid a touch under 8k for it and have put some nice upgrades on it. With the lower purchase cost, I can afford a lot of gasoline. I'm learning to do much of the maintenance on my own. So... time will tell as the miles go up what the experience with this new arachnid will be. This thread is interesting, to see the different perspectives on the different BRP products. Who knows what is ahead for BRP (or, perhaps, other newcomers to the 3 wheel marketplace)?
 
I had a 2014 rss,now I have a 2019 f3s the f3 handles better,faster holds more gas and has less maintenance It just that much better,great bike
 
I test rode a 2010 RT SE5. If that was all that was available, I wouldn't be riding a Spyder now. The engine is unsitable for a touring ryde for me, I couldn't stand having to scream the engine all the time. I don't mind it on a performance bike, but I prefer my touring rig to be more sedate.
 
I test rode a 2010 RT SE5. If that was all that was available, I wouldn't be riding a Spyder now. The engine is unsitable for a touring ryde for me, I couldn't stand having to scream the engine all the time. I don't mind it on a performance bike, but I prefer my touring rig to be more sedate.

2014 or higher will get you the 1330/3. That should be more to your liking. I have a 2011 RT SE5 and a 2014 RT-S. They are both great...but...I do like the 14 better. And for one of the same reasons as you mentioned.
 
This thread is 998 vs 1330. I hear different referanc to Engine size at times for the 998. Some say 990 (size? or series?), some say 998cc, now the 991 for 2013's. What is a series 991 engine?

[ GS/RS pre 2013, 990 series engine, RS 2013 onwards, 991 series engine, ]
 
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