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30 psi in frt tires

comments

no, no, no.. You don't get it.

There's no scientific way you could have a valid opinion because you've not testified for tens of dollars in court cases. The fact that you've ridden motorcycles, or driven cars, or ridden bicycles for years does not mean you understand any dynamics of an inflated rubber tube rolling on the ground. The "butt feel" you are experiencing is not real. It is unreliable. It tells you nothing, absolutely nothing. Do not even think for a second that your observations matter either. They can't be because you must take a couple of on-the-job classes for it.

The only acceptable tire pressure is what others ridicule you into accepting. Do it their way, or you will be mocked on Spyderlovers with emoji abuse.
:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ..... I'm going to request the administrator to start a new Topic category just for YOU .... It could be titled the STUPID - NASTY - IRRELEVANT - IDIOTIC comments etc. - category ..... I'm sure it will give the members here tons of stuff to laugh about during the ( for most ) Off -season :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:...........annnnnnnnnd a Happy New Year ....... Mike :thumbup:
 
LOL. You act like you're 8 years old. How did that attitude work on the witness stand of those big cases?

I'll still race you at your wet socks 14psi. I'll bet you didn't have them at 14psi at your BIG WIN of that sanctioned drag race. LOL.
 
Oh, boy.... here we go. I can't believe that there is such hard feelings in this topic!

I run my front Yokohamas at 26psi's on my RT. Love the handling. Some will claim that 14psi is the only safe pressure.

Well, there are only about 5 000 threads on tires here that answer almost every imaginable technical question but few that are willing to do an intelligent "Search" for themselves. ::hun:

There's a difference between helping and enabling. This forum is rich with info, advice and answers. We should be teaching /encouraging folks to learn to find that pre-existing help IMHO. Then the focus can be on NEW info, advice and answers.
 
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Well, there are only about 5 000 threads on tires here that answer almost every imaginable technical question but few that are willing to do an intelligent "Search" for themselves. ::hun:

There's a difference between helping and enabling. This forum is rich with info, advice and answers. We should be teaching /encouraging folks to learn to find that pre-existing help IMHO. Then the focus can be on NEW info, advice and answers.

I hate to say it, but good luck on that suggestion. Been watching the various threads since Feb 2010. No change noted. :yes:
 
Well, there are only about 5 000 threads on tires here that answer almost every imaginable technical question but few that are willing to do an intelligent "Search" for themselves. ::hun:

There's a difference between helping and enabling. This forum is rich with info, advice and answers. We should be teaching /encouraging folks to learn to find that pre-existing help IMHO. Then the focus can be on NEW info, advice and answers.

I appreciate your suggestion, and to some extent I share your frustration, but I have to be honest, the search function is pretty lame. You get presented with either NO relevant information, or TOO MUCH relevant information. Here's a screen shot of a quick search on Tire Pressure.
"Merlins Blood" ? Proper Oil Level Procedure ? 2016 F3T for sale ?
Really ??
Sometimes it's easier to just ask the question again.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong. I'm sure someone on this forum will be delighted to tell me if I am.


Capture 1.jpg
 
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The only way to see the difference in tires is to mount them and do cornering and braking tests.
This needs to be done in an honest and scientific way.
It needs data recording equipment mounted on the vehicle, video footage and measurements made on the road.
This would put this discussion to rest but since this is never going to happen I'm sticking with what BRP recommends.
They have done the homework and I'm not seeing anything like that on this website or thread.
I can not find a single car tire out there that is geared for a vehicle weighing roughly 1000lbs.
Its all fun-n-games till you slam on the brakes or corner hard and loose traction.

I'll swap my trusted Kenda tires when someone shows me the hard data. nojoke
 
Second generation Smart Cars weigh a minimum of 1653lbs. You can see this here.

They have a range of tire sizes, but their stock wheels and tires are similar to our fronts. Their recommended psi settings are 29 for the front and 36 for the rears. Here.

Close but still no cigar.
And you must remember you are missing a wheel which reduces traction even more.
additionally...they figure the weight as the "average" of additional passengers and cargo.
even those little Smart cars figure an average of passenger and cargo being 600-800lbs, something not close to a Spyder.

Show me a weight rating for a tire that not only shows close to a 1000lb car but missing a wheel, like a Spyder.

The Smart car is almost 1700lbs and has an extra tire, the math?
The Spyder is 33% lighter?
The Spyders missing tire reduces traction by 25%?

Any mathematicians out there wanna try to solve this math quiz?
 
Close but still no cigar.


So......53 posts into the thread and I forget what your recommendation is for tires ?
The stock Kendra's ??

And what does the Slingshot use for tires ?
Yes, I understand that it is not IDENTICAL but close is often good enough........despite protestations to the contrary. ;)
 
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Happy new year!!! Now, can we stop beating this dead horse and move on?:chat::bdh: Strop worrying about what everyone else does and ride your ride.
 
Close but still no cigar.
And you must remember you are missing a wheel which reduces traction even more.
additionally...they figure the weight as the "average" of additional passengers and cargo.
even those little Smart cars figure an average of passenger and cargo being 600-800lbs, something not close to a Spyder.

Show me a weight rating for a tire that not only shows close to a 1000lb car but missing a wheel, like a Spyder.

The Smart car is almost 1700lbs and has an extra tire, the math?
The Spyder is 33% lighter?
The Spyders missing tire reduces traction by 25%?

Any mathematicians out there wanna try to solve this math quiz?

I only put the Smart Car information up because it is the only thing close to what we are running.

But a nitpick in your math... our rear tire is bigger than the Smart Car tires. I'll let you work that through your HP calculator, but until you actually ride with car tires, you REALLY don't know what you are missing. Why do you think so many on this forum replace them?

Not science, but do a search on this popular forum. Look for anecdotal evidence of your claims. Look for actual claims of:

"holy s.....t.... my car tires are making me spin out on wet roads!" See what you find for us and report.
 
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I only put the Smart Car information up because it is the only thing close to what we are running.

But a nitpick in your math... our rear tire is bigger than the Smart Car tires. I'll let you work that through your HP calculator, but until you actually ride with car tires, you REALLY don't know what you are missing. Why do you think so many on this forum replace them?

Not science, but do a search on this popular forum. Look for anecdotal evidence of your claims. Look for actual claims of:

"holy s.....t.... my car tires are making me spin out on wet roads!" See what you find for us and report.

I was simply asking for the hard data, the math or any actual testing done.
I see none of that.
I see thread after thread of what people "think" is best.
 
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It's funny how a single thread can bring out the bad in all. No matter what you type, post stats,etc it will not change a persons mind. That is why I stated I like 17 lbs for me. Might not be what you like so run what you feel is right for you. So when people ask a question that doesn't know it's best to tell them to try different pressures until the find their sweat spot. JMO and I'm sticking to it
Happy New Year, David:bdh:
 
Here is a poor boy's method of looking at tire pressures.

Get your tires up to operating temperature (hard to do this time of year in many locations so some of us may need to wait until summer).

Wet an area on your driveway. A foot or 2 is plenty. You don't want standing water. Just enough to be good and wet.

Drive over the wet spot and you will see your tire footprint in the dry area on the other side. Kind of like the old carbon copiers, if you can remember back that far! :rolleyes:

If you are running too high a pressure the outer edge of the tread pattern will be light or missing. You should see an equal and complete tread pattern. This does not work as well for low tire pressure as it has to be extremely low for the pattern to show a problem.

This will not work on the rear tire if you are using Kenda's because of their weak tread area. Kenda's balloon out at speed, so whatever results you get at slow speeds will not translate to the real world. It will work fine if you are running a car tire because the tread area on a car tire is strong enough to resist ballooning at speed.

The front Kenda tires also have a weak tread area. But because of the narrow tread span the effects of ballooning are greatly reduced on the front tires. This is one reason the fronts last so much longer than the rear.
 

How about 75 psi or even a 100 psi. They float better when crossing rivers with the higher PSI's right?
:joke:

​Jack

Sorry, but with the added weight of all of that tire pressure, my mileage went to hell fast. Just too heavy!

I'll stick with 4PSI, thank you.
 
<snip>

The Spyders missing tire reduces traction by 25%?

Any mathematicians out there wanna try to solve this math quiz?
I'm no mathematician but think that last statement is not mathematically correct. Say a Spyder did have two rear tires, at the same total overall weight. The rear-end footprint would be doubled, but the downward PSI would be halved... an exact wash.

The total coefficient of friction (traction) would probably change some, but methinks nowhere near 25% (50% on rear axle...). :bowdown:
 
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