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2015 RTS Blank computer screen, won’t start - any ideas?

Interesting vid.... Have you ever gone thru the 'Read the Safety Card then Press Mode to continue' thing that should appear every time you turn the ignition off then leave it off for more than a 5 min or so stop, or does it always just go straight to the dash display like that every time regardless of how long since you turned the ignition on?? :dontknow:

Yeah, that’s usually what appears. Not now though.
 
I watched the video again and your speedometer doesn't show the Km/h indicator (the RPM indicator shows). So I'm pretty sure your console has some bad solder joints.

Would any for this be picked up if you were hooking it up to Buds? Would it find the gremlin in the box?:dontknow:
 
You might be able to reflow the solder joints as described here https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...der-consoles&p=1669454&viewfull=1#post1669454

Mikey -- there's a very good chance BUDS would not show the presence of the console (properly known as Instrument Cluster). See this post where BUDS doesn't show the ECM but does show the Cluster https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...S2-not-showing-ECM-Info&p=1658150#post1658150 What's happening is BUDS is sending CANBUS RTR messages and the various nodes send "I'm Here" messages in response. Any node that doesn't respond doesn't appear in BUDS. Same as when my console reconfigured itself when I removed the radio (which is controlled via CANBUS).
 
I’ve removed the console from the dashboard. It’s in three main parts which are all connected image.jpg

There’s a main board connected to a secondary board via four small wires which appear to soldered in place. Then the secondary board is connected to the screen via a flex cable which also appears to have been soldered in place. Presumably the screen cannot go in an oven at 220 degrees C, but I’m not confident on how to separate these components. Any ideas? I couldn’t find any images or videos online.
 
Looks like I don’t need an answer: after putting away all the components again, everything just worked! I’m guessing that one of the connectors was not properly seated or something similar? Not sure. I’ve started and stopped the trike several times now and taken a quick test drive and all seems well!
 
Thanks for posting that picture. Provided great insight. Will be useful when it happens to me. Anyone wondering about the complexity of the Spyder electronics should have been impressed by the size of that integrated circuit on the right.

"something similar?" Innate animosity of inanimate objects.:D
 
Did you perchance change the routing of the cable to the main connector? I had a similar problem with my 2015 RTS and when I relieved the stress on the conn. my problem went away. Have driven it about 2500 miles since with no problem. Hope it stays that way!!! Somewhere there is a minor flaw but d____ed if I can find it.
 
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