2014 RTS - Won't start; Dash Screen Dark - any ideas?

[DSSpyder]

After riding a few hours my dash screen when dark. Everything else was working correctly. Stopped for lunch, at restart, power comes on, everything appears to start properly, EXCEPT dash screen is dark, Starter will NOT engage. Tried clicking correct buttons to start, neutral, brake on, etc..... Start button will not engage starter to start engine.
Had Spyder towed home. Cooled all night, problem still exists! Battery new, 12.6 V, does not dip on Starter Button depression.

Any ideas?

 

[BertRemington]

The instrument console is central to Ignition-On initialization and functional readiness checks. Apparently your console is failing and cannot complete initialization and readiness checks which, in BRP's process, means your Spyder isn't ready for the road. The next step is failure analysis with BUDS. Hopefully it's only a loose connection to the console or bad solder joints which can be reflowed.

 

[sledge]

I had kinda the same thing on my 2011 about 6 months ago. I had my Spyder hauled home, and started really checking things, I thought it was my Battery. I bought a new Battery, put it in the bike, and it started right up, but it still seemed like the Battery was low voltage maybe; then checking more, I found the REAL problem all along - the Battery GROUND Cable where it has a bolt through it to the frame of the bike was NOT Tight Enough! Fixed that, and it has been fine ever since then. I hope this might help.

 

[jvint]

I have a 2014 RT and seem to be having the same type of issue. Dash went dark while riding but ran fine going home. Turned it off numerous times and it started but the next day all I get is one click from solenoid when I hit starter. If I unhook the battery and wait awhile before hooking it back up it will start again but after sitting with battery connected it goes back to the one click and nothing.

Did replacing your digital dash screen solve the problem for you?

Thank you!

 

[BertRemington]

it goes back to the one click and nothing

These symptoms point to a sulfated battery https://repairious.com/how-to-fix-a-sulfated-battery/

 

[Peter Aawen]

I have a 2014 RT and seem to be having the same type of issue. Dash went dark while riding but ran fine going home. Turned it off numerous times and it started but the next day all I get is one click from solenoid when I hit starter. If I unhook the battery and wait awhile before hooking it back up it will start again but after sitting with battery connected it goes back to the one click and nothing.

Did replacing your digital dash screen solve the problem for you?

Thank you!

That sounds much more like a ground issue; a dead or dying battery issue; or maybe a dying starter/starter solenoid problem rather than a dash issue jvint, but I guess it maybe possibly could be... :dontknow:

Still, I'd strongly suggest that you rule out those 'much easier/cheaper to resolve' possibilities first, before possibly wasting $$$ on fixing/replacing the dash, which might not even be involved! :shocked:

These symptoms point to a sulfated battery https://repairious.com/how-to-fix-a-sulfated-battery/

Just be aware that AGM batteries (like those normally used in our Spyders ) do need a little bit of 'different management' to those normal car batteries most of us are used to - which are 'wet cell batteries', not 'Absorbed Glass Mat' AGM batteries! :lecturef_smilie:

Try this method specifically aimed at AGM batteries: https://www.batteryskills.com/sulfated-agm-battery-recovery-how-to-overcome-sulfation/

And also be aware that 'normal' load testing usually accepts the battery holding anything above about 10.5v under starting load, but because of all the ancillary computers & the extra juice these require to get your Spyder started/keep it going, even if the magneto charge system (all V-Twin powered Spyders, ie all 2013 Spyders & earlier, plus the 2014 -2016 RS, RSS, & ST, STS models & all Rykers) or Alternator charge system (all 1330 powered Spyders, like your 2014 RT, jvint ) is operating perfectly, you WILL need to see 12v or better from your battery when it's under starting loads!

Just Sayin' :thumbup: