2015 F3's Oil Light Indicator

[Wildrice]

Has anyone ever seen it light?? I changed oil AMSOIL Metric 10-40 all Synthetic & replaced the oil filter. I let both oil plugs drain for 1-2 hrs. Then following a procedure I've done for 50 yrs I start the engine after the oil drain stops dripping--let it idle or accelerate to 2K RPM for a short rev for approx 20-30 seconds--there is plenty of oil on the rings & cyl walls to prevent damage. After turning the engine off approx another pint of dirty oil flows out of both drain plugs combined. I wiped the oil filter canister clean. Installed a new oil filter, then I poured in 5 quarts of oil--started for 30 seconds--no oil shown on the dip stick after 2 min rest. Then I added another 1/2 quart which barely touched the dip stick--I poured in the remainder of the 6th quart--went for a 3 mile ride--ran good--but the dip stick shows oil at the middle bubble which is the low end of acceptable volume.
How come I read about guys that change oil on the 1330 engine with 5.3 quarts?? Yes I stick the dip stick all the way in--even turn it closed. The oil level was in the center of the acceptable level which I initially got the F3's. I think I may have added 1/4-1/2 quart in the 2240 miles--top speed was 110 in 5th gear on the 6 speed thumb shift automatic. At oil change I didn't notice any significant metal on the magnetic oil plug. 6 quarts of oil with dip stick meausring in the low end of acceptablenojoke
Darrell

 

[MrBones]

Maybe your notwarming it up enough. It calls for at least a 9 mile run plus idleing. It has to be at running temp or it will show too low on the stick.

 

[Peter Aawen]

This might not be applicable to the Rotax engines at all, but more & more modern engines that I see have very strict time limits imposed for draining their oil - drain them just a minute or so too long & you hafta manually re-prime the oil pump or the low oil pressure warning light will remain on cos the oil pump is not primed properly & so can end up not pushing enough oil around the engine.... with less than pleasing results!! :yikes:

So Wildrice, while I used to do the same as you on 'old school' engines (& still do on tractor diesels!) because those things were made to withstand operators doing that, I'd really be VERY wary of draining the oil out of any modern hi-tech engine (gas or diesel) for more than about 10 mins while changing the oil, & I'd NEVER even try to run one of these modern hi-tech EFI & computer controlled engines for anything more than a couple of seconds without oil in it to at least the indicated Low level & certainly not ever rev it at all without at least that much oil showing on the stick!! :shocked: They are just too finickety & you are waaaay too likely to upset some of their sensors/control systems or pumps/pick-ups!! :sour:

The extra oil you drained out & then hadta replace was likely not only meant to remain in there, but very likely kept there to stop unwary operators/mechanics from inadvertently damaging sensors &/or draining pumps/pick-ups any lower than their 'self priming' limits so that they didn't destroy the engine after a 'simple' oil change!! :shocked:

 

[Wildrice]

This might not be applicable to the Rotax engines at all, but more & more modern engines that I see have very strict time limits imposed for draining their oil - drain them just a minute or so too long & you hafta manually re-prime the oil pump or the low oil pressure warning light will remain on cos the oil pump is not primed properly & so can end up not pushing enough oil around the engine.... with less than pleasing results!! :yikes:

So Wildrice, while I used to do the same as you on 'old school' engines (& still do on tractor diesels!) because those things were made to withstand operators doing that, I'd really be VERY wary of draining the oil out of any modern hi-tech engine (gas or diesel) for more than about 10 mins while changing the oil, & I'd NEVER even try to run one of these modern hi-tech EFI & computer controlled engines for anything more than a couple of seconds without oil in it to at least the indicated Low level & certainly not ever rev it at all without at least that much oil showing on the stick!! :shocked: They are just too finickety & you are waaaay too likely to upset some of their sensors/control systems or pumps/pick-ups!! :sour:

The extra oil you drained out & then hadta replace was likely not only meant to remain in there, but very likely kept there to stop unwary operators/mechanics from inadvertently damaging sensors &/or draining pumps/pick-ups any lower than their 'self priming' limits so that they didn't destroy the engine after a 'simple' oil change!! :shocked:

Could be--but I just rode it for 50 miles--occasionally exceeding the 70 mph freeway speed limit--it runs great sounds great--6 quarts of AMSOIL Metric 10w40 show up at the minimum acceptable level on the oil stick--?? It would be extremely difficult to build an engine without any dips or valley's in the oil flow area. A pint of dirty oil could contain a pint with metal fragments. My stage 2 turbo Hayabusa 1298 cc is fairly high tech--343 rwhp & 212# torq using C16 Fuel at 15-16 lbs of boost. Pump gas 93 octane I can approx get 270 rwhp at 9-10 lb boost. I've blown several engines but usually using NOS without pulling a few degrees timing out of top rpm. Won't leaving dirty oil in the engine be similar to not replacing the dirty oil filter?? But I appreciate your feedback. I do have some concern that the oil light did not come on while running the engine after draining? In theory a dry sump engine contains most-all of it's oil in the oil reservoir--but draining the 1330 engine produced more oil from the engine trans area that the oil reservoir thus this engine my be some form of hybrid oil system.??
Darrell