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2015 Can Am Spyder F3 - Needs a new engine!

My suggestions based on the information to date:

(1) Take a deep breath and relax. It's unlikely the engine has seized unless the spark plugs holes where left open for an extended period of time leading to water entry and rust which would cause cylinder wear than might lead to "one day it just stopped." Again, this is unlikely.

(2) Take a step back. Order a Service Manual. It will be electronic so delivery should be very quick. Then take some time reading it. If you like to understand machinery the manual does a nice job of explaining your new machine.

(3) Continue with cleaning your Spyder. It's a great way to get familiar with it. You will also discover the specific tools needs to change the oil, remove bodywork, etc.

(4) Best wishes with your new Spyder. I think with the community's help, you will be riding it in a few weeks with the same engine it already has..

I have NEVER owned a Can Am before.

*I own a service manual. Purchased the download as soon as I got home.
*The service manual is nearly a thousand pages. Not reading an entire service manual.
*I have shared the codes.
*I checked the coolant and oil when I got it home.
*The previous owner is 80 years old. She had the plugs changed and the oil changed at a dealer. She gave me those receipts. It was Saturday, so I was not able to call the dealer to get the full history.
*Obviously, a dusty/dirty bike will not cause the engine to seize.
*Spyder is cleaned. Did that today.

Thank you for your best wishes. The community has been most helpful...
 
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Yep..

From what I have read so far, I'm optimistic that it's not a catastrophic failure.
It's just a matter of identifying the fault.

Like Bert has said, Plenty of Blokes on here can assist with getting it running sweet again.

My question for you is what experience do you have with bike maintenance, and do you have any tools and stuff?

If you're serious about getting this sorted, don't shortcut or riddle the answers to questions posted.

I have owned 8 scooters/trikes. I have TONS of experience with them. NO experience with a Can Am Spyder. All the tools I need.
 
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I do and have always done all of my own maintenance on my bikes including my Spyder. There are many here that are a lot wiser than me when it comes to these machines, but I don't think you have an engine failure at all. I know you get tired of hearing about the battery but that is often the issue when a problem arises. Weird things going on and weird codes being thrown are often the result of a weak battery and/or a bad connection. Not just the connection at the battery terminals but also the ground connections to the frame. What if any aftermarket electrical items does the bike have? This can be a good place to start looking. I recently had what was a very expensive failure on my 2015 RT according to the codes being shown. Turned out that it was corrosion in a plug of an added electrical item that was easily and cheaply corrected. That's why I asked about any additions. These machines operate on a CANBUS wiring system that while not really complicated at all can be very finicky if tampered with. The slightest change in voltage or amperage can be read as a problem by the ECM. Man, I wish you were closer. I love a troubleshooting challenge and I would do what I could to help. Don't get too frustrated with the folks here. I know sometimes we think someone needs a smack, but sooner or later one of us is going to figure out your issue and it may even be you. These machines aren't as complicated as some may think when you sit back and go at it slowly. What drives you nuts is the fact that every system seems to tie into all the other systems and it is easy to go off on a tangent. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer for you. Don't give up on the Spyder or on us. Let me know what you find.
 
Ah ok. Cheers for the reply. Great.

Yep, these are totally different. I myself have been turning nuts and maintaining bikes since the mid 70's, that's 40 odd years or so I guess.

And I was astounded with the way these Spyders are put together in places.
I very much value Berts', and a few others' guidance.

Post #17 is worth re-reading.

Over to you. Iso.
 
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Another thought. Look for rodent damage. I bet this machine has been parked for long periods and rodents love wiring insulation.
 
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You might try starting with a jumper pack. I’m thinking still a battery issue. A lot of electrical gremlins come out with not enough juice.
 
Reckon I would pull off all the panels and have a real good look at all the wiring.

I had a rat into my 2009 GL1800. Munched down on the Palm Oil based plastics. The soft stuff. Mostly the wiring. Must smell good, taste good and be nutritional. The bike was 11 months old and needed stripping back to the frame to replace the looms.
 
Another thought. Look for rodent damage. I bet this machine has been parked for long periods and rodents love wiring insulation.

It was kept in a heated garage. There could still be damage but as I was looking it over today and yesterday (10+ hours), I saw no signs of any damage.
 
One tool I don't have is a 19mm hex bit socket to try and manually turn the engine.

I will get one at lunch tomorrow and see if it budges.
 
Scott -- every evening my cat and I go out on the porch for "beer cat" time. While he checks his turf I use the opportunity to relax my focus on design projects and revisit various topics of the day, one being your interesting F3. One item is especially puzzling is the replacement of the spark plugs at 13K miles when the maintenance schedule is 28K. And many riders are going to 50K without problems although at risk of their ignition coils. And combined with its running rough the question is why such an early replacement was needed? I'm kinda wondering if the Spyder ran smoothly (the 1330cc engine is wonderful) for 12.9K miles and then suddenly started roughly if not actually stopping whereupon the previous owner thought (was mislead into) spark plug replacement was needed. And when that expensive action didn't fix the problem the previous owner parked it for several years then as a New Year's resolution decided to sell it on.

I truly hope tomorrow your engine turns freely. And if it does think about peeling back the scenario I described above.

Again best wishes getting your F3 on the road again.
 
Per Scot "I am truly heartbroken. Yes, over a bike...! haha"

Completely understandable. I wish I had the exact info you need, but I don't.

When I had a Honda, I did a lot of my own work. The Spyder is a real pain to work on.

There are an incredible number of odd things that can go wrong. I hope you can get it sorted soon.

Good luck!!!
 
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Scott -- every evening my cat and I go out on the porch for "beer cat" time. While he checks his turf I use the opportunity to relax my focus on design projects and revisit various topics of the day, one being your interesting F3. One item is especially puzzling is the replacement of the spark plugs at 13K miles when the maintenance schedule is 28K. And many riders are going to 50K without problems although at risk of their ignition coils. And combined with its running rough the question is why such an early replacement was needed? I'm kinda wondering if the Spyder ran smoothly (the 1330cc engine is wonderful) for 12.9K miles and then suddenly started roughly if not actually stopping whereupon the previous owner thought (was mislead into) spark plug replacement was needed. And when that expensive action didn't fix the problem the previous owner parked it for several years then as a New Year's resolution decided to sell it on.

I truly hope tomorrow your engine turns freely. And if it does think about peeling back the scenario I described above.

Again best wishes getting your F3 on the road again.

I agree with you! What made them change the plugs? I am thinking that there was a bad cylinder and they thought changing plugs would fix that. May have made it worse.

I am going to pick up a torx socket and try to manually turn this engine. If it turns, I’ll keep searching. If not, I’ll find a used engine and someone who knows how to swap them.

Still worth the journey, for what I paid. And I absolutely appreciate your help.
 
IF a replacement engine is needed, are all of the 1330 engines the same? Can am made several models with this engine. I was hoping they are interchangeable.
 
I am going to tear the plastic off tomorrow (again) and get to the spark plugs and see if I can get some penetrating oil in there and hopefully unsieze the motor.
 
IF a replacement engine is needed, are all of the 1330 engines the same? Can am made several models with this engine. I was hoping they are interchangeable.

Yes, for all intents and purposes they are! The major differences you'll find are in the hard coded programming of various Control Modules; Engine (ECM) & Transmission (TCM) in particular, altho there may also be some significant changes in the Dash Units &/or the Left-Hand Control Module (which handles & transmits most of the handlebar control inputs from BOTH handgrips!).... :rolleyes:
 
NEW APPROACH!

I am hoping I can get this motor free'd up. Today, I plan on removing the plugs and adding some Marvel's Mystery Oil into the spark plug inlets. HOPEFULLY, that will free up the engine.

It froze for a reason. No oil circulation, no coolant circulation, etc.

First things first. Let's try and get this motor free'd up.

Stay tuned!
 
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