2012 Spyder RTS - New owner with some questions?!

[SpyderLinder]

Wow, I'm blown away in an amazing way at how much information there is on this group!! I appreciate the intense knowledge that is here.

I just purchased a 2012 Spyder RTS (with only 3,117 miles on it no less!!). It's running fairly rough, so my hubby is going to do an oil change.

1. When looking at parts, there is an option of an RT SE5 or an SM5. How do I know which one I have? Is there a place to check with the VIN #?

2. Does it matter which model for an oil change? (SE5 or SM5)

3. Should I be putting in high test fuel or will it run fine on regular 87 octane? UPDATE: Just read the Q&A, I see that I have to check owner's manual, which previous owner couldn't find - will be ordering from local dealer)

4. Should we change out the spark plugs as well at the same time? Or is it unlikely that at 3100 miles it's needed yet?

I've taken 'Manny' out on the road a few times, and I'm in LOVE!!!! I get anxiety on the back of my husband's Harley, so I made the decision to purchase the Spyder so that I could at least participate with him on something he loves very much. Risky since I wasn't even sure I'd like it! But this is definitely a happy outcome. :yes: :yes: :yes:

 

[Mikey]

You have a lot of questions here!!! SE5, SM5 ----- SE5 has the paddle shifter; SM5 Manual shifter & hand clutch!! You would use the same oil on both, but use an oil that is right for wet clutch set up! You will need a trans filter and you will have to know if you have the extended filter or the short one, there should be a tag on or around the oil tank, saying if you have the long filter or not! You can use 87 octane gas safely, some will say that it will run better with higher, your choice! You don't really need plugs yet, but there are a couple vacuum lines on the carb that you may want to check!! Do a search at the top of your home page, that is a good tool to find out about everything you may want to find out! I would run a couple cans of seafoam, or a good carb cleaner threw your bike and change the fuel filter after you're done!! That bike's been sitting too long without riders, so get on that thing and enjoy!!!! :congrats: :2thumbs: And don't be afraid to ask the questions!!!

 

[SpyderLinder]

THANK YOU MIKEY!!! SO appreciative of your time to answer. I will have my hubby do what you suggested.

I Have the '+' clicker on the left just below the handle - I have to click on it with my left thumb to upshift. I 'reverse click' it from the rear to manually downshift. To me that's manual, but it could be the 'paddle' - can you please tell me which one that is?

You're the best!!

 

[Peter Aawen]

THANK YOU MIKEY!!! SO appreciative of your time to answer. I will have my hubby do what you suggested.

I Have the '+' clicker on the left just below the handle - I have to click on it with my left thumb to upshift. I 'reverse click' it from the rear to manually downshift. To me that's manual, but it could be the 'paddle' - can you please tell me which one that is?

You're the best!!

That is the paddle shifter for the SE5 - if you go around to the front of the Spyder & look closely, you should also be able to see the '-' on the 'reverse clicker' (unless it's worn off already!) Because you have an SE5, you also won't have a Left Hand Clutch lever (like most 'truly manual' gearboxed motorcycles) and you won't have a Left foot pedal for changing the gears either - but technically, you are correct in that BOTH the SM & SE gearboxes are still really 'Manual' gearboxes; it's just that the 'SE' denotes that is the 'semi-automatic' and as such, the Five Speed SE5's have a centrifugal clutch (all internal & automatic, no manual operation, only fully engaged at about 3,300 rpm, so keep your revs UP! ) teamed with the flappy +/- paddles and computer controlled electro-solenoid activated shifting; while the Five Speed SM5's still have the LH Clutch Lever & the foot pedal that require more than the twitch of a finger to change gears! :shocked:

Just for your info, the newer later 1330 Triple engined models (RT's fm 2014 on & ALL F3's) run SE6 & SM6 gearboxes - which are basically the same manual gearbox with the same style of changing features except that they each have an extra gear - 6 speeds rather than just the 5 speeds the V-twin motored SE5's & SM5's have; and the SE6's have an engine oil pressure based hydraulic clutch that is fully engaged by about 2,000 RPM to go with the lower revving higher torque motor.

Mikey's got you pretty much covered for all the rest, and you really should check out the 'Do's & Don'ts' thread that's a sticky at the top of the Spyder General Discussion section - lotsa good info in that, just make sure you pay attention to the info specific to the V-Twin 998cc motors - the info for the 1330cc Triples can be a little different & confuse things a bit, but the different sections are fairly clearly marked! :thumbup:

Enjoy, and Welcome to the Forum as well as to the Miles of Smiles you can get from Spyder Ryding! :cheers:

 

[ThreeWheels]

I'll try to answer your remaining questions, you've got the oil change questions answered.
As to the Octane, there's a lot of talk on that, I had a 2010 and found 87 octane more than adequate, the computer adjusts the fuel injection and ignition timing appropriately.
You should change out the spark plugs AND the spark plug wires supplied by BajaRon. The OEM plug wires were woefully inadequate and may, in fact be the source of your rough running. My 2010 would drop out one cylinder until I replaced the wires with new ones from BajaRon.
Here are few answers to questions you didn't ask (yet).
Get a laser wheel alignment. The early Spyders were not well aligned out of the factory. A properly aligned Spyder tracks like it's on rails. An improperly aligned Spyder can throw you like a bucking bronco.
Tire pressure is also important. The fronts should be on the order of 17 PSI give or take a few pounds. The OEM Kenda tires were crap, and they're already old. Consider replacing them with car tires of the appropriate size. Also, the front tire pressures should match each other as close as possible, certainly within a half pound of each other.
Get a few thousand miles under your belt before making any more changes.
As you ride the bike, especially two up, you may find uncomfortable body roll around turns.
The easiest solution for this is a BajaRon sway bar upgrade.
Good luck. Please keep us posted so we know how you make out.

 

[KX5062]

I'll add to the good advice to say to watch out for engine heat build up. That issue plagued the 998 line up to varying degrees (pun intended) with different bikes and different models without any real consistency. Your husband can remove the charcoal emissions canister (there's a whole thread or more about how to do it and the benefits). To aid in keeping the engine compartment cool some people have removed a couple of the splash shields underneath the bike. There's some old threads about that too. Super easy to do without any real downside.

 

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: and :congrats: Your 2012 RT-S is considered the "best" of the 998 twins, it was the second to the last year, and by then BRP had a pretty good product going.

Based on what you have said, you have the SE5 model. Considered a semi-auto transmission, but you do the shifting via the paddles. Keeping the revs in the 5000 - 5500 gives the best performance and shifting. You don't need 5th gear until you get over 55 mph on the highway. Always keep the rev's in the 5000 range. Most riders let the 998 shift down by itself. You will get used to the process quickly.

I have been using 87 octane for years beginning with my 2010 RTS. So far, no issues. Plugs are good for 50 to 60K miles. Change out is optional. Rough riding may be due to lack of running the engine. You will get that solved quickly.

Enjoy your new :spyder2:

 

[SpyderLinder]

You should change out the spark plugs AND the spark plug wires supplied by BajaRon. The OEM plug wires were woefully inadequate and may, in fact be the source of your rough running. My 2010 would drop out one cylinder until I replaced the wires with new ones from BajaRon.

Thank you all for sooooo much helpful information! Does BajaRon have a website? I think that's his username here - should I contact him here? I would want to get everything I need to help Manny run the best.

 

[ARtraveler]

Thank you all for sooooo much helpful information! Does BajaRon have a website? I think that's his username here - should I contact him here? I would want to get everything I need to help Manny run the best.

He is a vendor on the site. Go to home page to find them.

 

[ThreeWheels]

Thank you all for sooooo much helpful information! Does BajaRon have a website? I think that's his username here - should I contact him here? I would want to get everything I need to help Manny run the best.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets

 

[UtahPete]

:welcome: and :congrats: Your 2012 RT-S is considered the "best" of the 998 twins, it was the second to the last year, and by then BRP had a pretty good product going.

Based on what you have said, you have the SE5 model. Considered a semi-auto transmission, but you do the shifting via the paddles. Keeping the revs in the 5000 - 5500 gives the best performance and shifting. You don't need 5th gear until you get over 55 mph on the highway. Always keep the rev's in the 5000 range. Most riders let the 998 shift down by itself. You will get used to the process quickly.

I have been using 87 octane for years beginning with my 2010 RTS. So far, no issues. Plugs are good for 50 to 60K miles. Change out is optional. Rough riding may be due to lack of running the engine. You will get that solved quickly.

Enjoy your new :spyder2:

:agree: forget all the other stuff (alignment, sway bar, etc) until those issues present themselves. You asked about rough idling, so get some miles on it, then if it's still a problem, consider new fuel filter and spark plug wires (particularly if it's also running rough at speed).

THEN, come back here with your results or other questions about your new bike. But, do the easy, more obvious stuff first, including the engine oil and filter change.

BajaRon can sell you exactly the correct oil, filters, plug wires etc for your model / year of bike. Send him a PM.

And, keep those revs up. The twin engine doesn't like low revs, and might be causing some of the roughness you are experiencing.

 

[JayBros]

Congratulations on your new ride. Do yourself a big favor, grab a large container of your preferred beverage, have a seat and read thoroughly your operator's guide. If you did not get one with the Spyder, go to this link, drill down to your year and model, save a copy on your computer and begin reading: https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=e&s1=fba5fc68-277d-4209-b605-db0987f88650&brands=roadster&type=og.

 

[SpyderLinder]

Congratulations on your new ride. Do yourself a big favor, grab a large container of your preferred beverage, have a seat and read thoroughly your operator's guide. If you did not get one with the Spyder, go to this link, drill down to your year and model, save a copy on your computer and begin reading: https://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=e&s1=fba5fc68-277d-4209-b605-db0987f88650&brands=roadster&type=og.

THANK YOU! Mine didn't come with the manual - I was going to pay $35 for one from the dealer. You're the best!!!!

 

[SpyderLinder]

:

And, keep those revs up. The twin engine doesn't like low revs, and might be causing some of the roughness you are experiencing.

I have been shifting at around 3200 rpms! I read on this forum somewhere about running it higher - it's hard to do that by nature but I will try.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have been shifting at around 3200 rpms! I read on this forum somewhere about running it higher - it's hard to do that by nature but I will try.

The reason some have mentioned the RPM's , has to do with the CLUTCH being FULLY engaged .... on the V-twins I think that occurs at about 3200 rpm's .... so I think that is what you should cruise at ... when I had both my V-twins I used 2800 rpm's ( for criusing ) and never had any Clutch issues. .... the nicest thing you can do for your ride is the change to AUTO tires and get rid of the Kenda's .... some dealers will mount and balance Auto tire some won't .... If so, doing the fronts are the same as you Car just take off the wheels and bring them and your new tires to any shop that does tire work and they can mount and most likely balance them .... there are many Video's on best to do the rear, it's not difficult just a bit more to do ..... good luck and :welcome: .... PS, I know tires and Spyders ... if you want recommendations PM me ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

I have been shifting at around 3200 rpms! I read on this forum somewhere about running it higher - it's hard to do that by nature but I will try.

3500 rpms is the "sweet spot" for the 1330/three cylinders.

At 3200 rpms on the 998 you are lugging the engine a little bit. Try that 5500 on your 998 and see what you think about the performance.

 

[SpyderLinder]

I wish I could 'like' this like we do on Facebook! haha!

I will definitely step out of my comfort zone next time I ride. Who knew!!! I'm going to have a panic attack going over 4000 though!

 

[SpyderLinder]

THANK YOU! Mine didn't come with the manual - I was going to pay $35 for one from the dealer. You're the best!!!!

I'm half way through the manual!!

 

[UtahPete]

I wish I could 'like' this like we do on Facebook! haha!

I will definitely step out of my comfort zone next time I ride. Who knew!!! I'm going to have a panic attack going over 4000 though!

Your husband's v-twin doesn't rev real high because it has lots of low end 'grunt'

Your bike is more like a sports bike with its relatively small displacement but high revving engine. Very different dynamics.

 

[Woodaddict]

I wish I could 'like' this like we do on Facebook! haha!

I will definitely step out of my comfort zone next time I ride. Who knew!!! I'm going to have a panic attack going over 4000 though!

YOU CAN!!! under each post is "like" and "thanks" buttons, now you can go thru and wish everybody that helps you a like!!