2012 Sp;yder Rt Ltd

[AZCowboy]

Hey just wanted to put the word out on your oil changes. In the past year I have put on over 12,000 miles on my bike in 9 months. It sat in the shop for a month to replace the water pump (leaking oil through it). Not to go through all the other problems but I had my oil changed 3 times at two different locations. This time I wanted to get into the servicing of my bike as much as I could like I have down through the years with all my other bikes. I have to take off 9 parts before I can since I have a SE5 which has 2 oil filters. Got nice and hot then tried to drain the oil out from the engine drain plug. It was in so tight I stripped the head with the T40. I drained the oil out of the oil tank with no problem then replaced both oil filters again no problem. I thought I got all the oil out at the main filter going in with rags. I had to use a large vice grip on the lip of the oil drain plug then with a LOT of force broke it loose. I am happy that the treads in the engine were fine. When it came out I had enough oil still in the engine to cover the bottom of my oil pan. Now I don't know if this was over tighten at the factory or one of the shops. Now if this was done at the factory and as how tight it was I would say it was done at the factory why didn't either shop break it loose? Now enough oil was in there so that means there must of been a bit of dirt as well and the post that catches metal couldn't of been cleaned either. Now I am waiting a week and a half for the part and the shops wouldn't cover it. I have never had this much problems with a MC company ever. So if you don't do your own oil change better check that plug out. :spyder2: RJ

 

[Spyder4Tess]

Probably was over tightened by the last tech.This is just one good reason to do your own services.

Just did mine over the weekend and the plugs came off just fine.

 

[NancysToy]

Posting things in multiple forums is not a good way to get answers. Try a single location next time. As was said elsewhere, the drain plugs are hex (allen wrench), not torx. Remember the old adage...use the wrong tool, damage the fastener.

 

[Spyder4Tess]

As was said elsewhere, the drain plugs are hex (allen wrench), not torx. Remember the old adage...use the wrong tool, damage the fastener.

I used a torx on mine,guess I was lucky.

 

[NancysToy]

I used a torx on mine,guess I was lucky.

Yes you were! There are a few 2008 GS Spyders out there with torx (or mixed) plugs, but the rest are all hex. I would not recommend the use of a typical Allen wrench in removing them. Too easy to strip the head. Get the right sized hex socket and use a ratchet. Use one hand to fully bottom the socket while you turn the wrench. I recommend using a torque wrench to tighten the plugs when replaced.

 

[Spyder4Tess]

Glad I read this post!Thanks.

 

[Bob Denman]

Scotty,
What size hex do those little buggers take?

 

[NancysToy]

Scotty,
What size hex do those little buggers take?

6 mm

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

HEX SIZE

Scotty,
What size hex do those little buggers take?

Bob, Mike here.....They are both #6 , and I just put one in both to make sure :roflblack:.....And I believe the reason you should not use the bent " L " shaped hex wrench is because they are not " HARDENED STEEL " (can't be bent")......The socket type are HARDENED........just sayin.....Mike :thumbup:.........Well Scotty beat me while Iwas checking and typing..........plus He has this stuff memorized:agree:

 

[ABQAndy]

Bob, Mike here.....They are both #6 , and I just put one in both to make sure :roflblack:.....And I believe the reason you should not use the bent " L " shaped hex wrench is because they are not " HARDENED STEEL " (can't be bent")......The socket type are HARDENED........just sayin.....Mike :thumbup:.........Well Scotty beat me while Iwas checking and typing..........plus He has this stuff memorized:agree:

I agree, the dealer did my 600 mi. service and I did the 4,600 mi. and tried to take out the plug with a L hex wrench, couldn't budge it. Bought a socket type tool and finally broke it loose. I was really afraid that something was going to strip because I had to apply a lot of pressure to break it loose, made a loud scary noise when it broke loose!!! The tech at the dealer had to have way over tightened it.

 

[Bob Ledford]

Antisieze

A tiny dab of "never-seize anti-seize compound will give you a little insurance on removing the plug at a later date also. One small can will last you almost a lifetime. Get it at most any good automotive, refrigeration, or bearing outlet.

 

[Bob Denman]

6mm hardened steel socket style... :thumbup:
(filling out my shopping list...)

 

[NancysToy]

A tiny dab of "never-seize anti-seize compound will give you a little insurance on removing the plug at a later date also. One small can will last you almost a lifetime. Get it at most any good automotive, refrigeration, or bearing outlet.

Bad idea! Anti-sieze is not a good engine lubricant, and belongs nowhere near the oil system. Tight plugs are caused by...

1. Over torquing the drain plugs
2. Normal thermal tightening of a steel fastener in an aluminum case.
3. Normal tightening from expansion due to the crush washer
4. Reuse of a crush washer

It typically takes more torque to remove a drain plug in an aluminum case than it did to tighten it. That is why setting it to the correct spec and using the right tools is so important.