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998cc 2012 RTSE Transmission filter

Spyderman12

New member
Since I am currently grounded due to my states no non-essential travel ban I decided that this weekend would be a good time to change my oil. When I removed the transmission filter cap I noticed that the lower bolt seemed loose, and that accounted for the seeping I found under the cap. To my dismay I have since found that the threads are stripped in the lower hole. I have done some basic research and am currently looking at possibly doing a Helicoil type repair. As I have never done this type of repair myself before any guidance, advice or other assistance will be most appreciated. Thanks
 
Before you get too deep into this - and just wanting to cover all the bases - it has happened in the past that folks have removed both of the oil filter caps at the same time during an oil change. The problem is that the screws for the engine oil filter, and the screws for the HCM (transmission) oil filter are not the same length. The HCM oil filter cap screws are the longer ones. 5mm longer. So what happens is if one or both of the shorter screws are accidentally put into the HCM filter holes, there is not adequate thread engagement and the end threads strip out. Just the end threads.

However, once the longer screw is put in the correct place, there are still enough threads left to properly tighten down the screws with no need for repairs or Helicoils.

So, worth a check. First be sure that you have the two longer screws in the HCM filter cap, and the two shorter screws in the engine oil filter cap.

I've never had to do a Helicoil repair myself. Can't help you there, but I bet there's a YouTube video on it.
 
There are many YouTube vids about Helicoils. Basically, the hole is drilled slightly larger, then tapped with threads. The Helicoil is installed by screwing it in with a tool, usually using a drop of Loctite. The cross tang is broken off and removed, and the internal threads in the coil become the new threads for the screw. All easy if you can access the hole. I've had more than a couple of Mickey Mouse mirrors on handlebar controls on bikes stay put after Helicoil repair.
I'm always confused at how these things happen. I changed oil in my 2012 dozens of times, never damaged a thread.
 
Before you get too deep into this - and just wanting to cover all the bases - it has happened in the past that folks have removed both of the oil filter caps at the same time during an oil change. The problem is that the screws for the engine oil filter, and the screws for the HCM (transmission) oil filter are not the same length. The HCM oil filter cap screws are the longer ones. 5mm longer. So what happens is if one or both of the shorter screws are accidentally put into the HCM filter holes, there is not adequate thread engagement and the end threads strip out. Just the end threads.

However, once the longer screw is put in the correct place, there are still enough threads left to properly tighten down the screws with no need for repairs or Helicoils.

So, worth a check. First be sure that you have the two longer screws in the HCM filter cap, and the two shorter screws in the engine oil filter cap.

I've never had to do a Helicoil repair myself. Can't help you there, but I bet there's a YouTube video on it.

I found that the first time I changed the oil and filter, so now I do first one, and then the other.
 
There are many YouTube vids about Helicoils. Basically, the hole is drilled slightly larger, then tapped with threads. The Helicoil is installed by screwing it in with a tool, usually using a drop of Loctite. The cross tang is broken off and removed, and the internal threads in the coil become the new threads for the screw. All easy if you can access the hole. I've had more than a couple of Mickey Mouse mirrors on handlebar controls on bikes stay put after Helicoil repair.
I'm always confused at how these things happen. I changed oil in my 2012 dozens of times, never damaged a thread.

I know what you are saying. I have changed my own oil all but twice since I got the bike. The dealer changed it the first time after I bought the bike, and charged me over $300 for the job. I understand why they charge that much but it seemed a lot of money so I have changed it myself every time since then, except this time. Since the Spyder was in for other work I had them do the change, and this is the result! I found out later that the dealer had replaced their long time mechanic with someone who only had previous experiance with small engine repair. He also screwed up some other things on my bike that took a lot of time and work to sort out. Needless to say I am never going back there!
 
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