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2012 RT - what's the Oil capacity?

jbaker

New member
I just finished my initial oil change on a 2012 RT with the manual transmission. 4 qts has the oil just to the bottom of the dipstick, at the add line? Everything I've read says 4 qts. Do they ever take more?
 
:dontknow:I should have asked the dealer when I took mine for the first 600 mile oil change. They did more than oil change which include updates on the computer, new oil filter change and new left panel change. Did you get all these updates and changes?
 
I just finished my initial oil change on a 2012 RT with the manual transmission. 4 qts has the oil just to the bottom of the dipstick, at the add line? Everything I've read says 4 qts. Do they ever take more?

Is that a engine hot or cold reading?
 
Has the engine been run yet? Hot or cold? Did you drain the sump too, or just the tank? All these make a difference.

Not sure where you read the 4 quart capacity, but the Spyders take a little more. SM capacity = 4.1 qt with filter change, and the SE capacity = 4.5 qt with both filters changed. Best to put in 4ish, run the engine to full operating temp, then fine tune the level after you read it hot. JMHO
 
On our RTS SE5, I start with 4 Qts. I then crank the bike and let it idle for a little and then add in another .2 Qts (4.2 total). I then will get it up to normal operating temp and then check and adjust from there. The last oil change took just under 4.5 Qts and it was right at the Full mark.

Does anyone know how many (ml's) of oil it takes to go from the "add" to "full" mark? Just curious on the next oil change where I would just split the difference to start with?
 
Have to agree..!!

Scotty
:agree: add the 4 Qt's run the engine and then top off as needed...!! :thumbup:
 
The 2011-2012 service manual says:

All Models
18. Pour 3L (3.2qt(U.S. liq.)) of the recommended oil into the oil tank.
19. Start engine and let idle for two minutes.
Do not rev up engine during idling period as the may cause permanent engine damage.
Ensure oil pressure warning lamp goes out within 5 seconds from engine start. If oil pressure warning lamp stays ON for more that 5 seconds, STOP ENGINE and recheck oil level.

I think they mean look under the bike for a large pool of oil...

20. Ensure engine oil filter cover, engine and oil tank drain plugs, and HCM filer cover (SE5 models) are not leaking.
21. Stop Engine

SM5 Model
22. Add 0.9L (1qt (U.S. liq)) of the recommended engine oil in the tank.
Note the total quantity is 3.9L (4.1qt (U.S. liq)).
23. Check oil level immediately and adjust if required.

SE5 Model
26. Add 1.2L (1.3qt (U.S. liq)) of the recommended engine oil in the tank.
Note the total quantity is 4.2L (4.4qt (U.S. liq)).
27. Check oil level immediately and adjust if required.
Note: When the engine oil filter and the HCM oil filter are replaced, the total oil quantity to add will be 4.3L (4.5qt (U.S. liq)).

JT
 
The 2011-2012 service manual says:

All Models
18. Pour 3L (3.2qt(U.S. liq.)) of the recommended oil into the oil tank.
19. Start engine and let idle for two minutes.
Do not rev up engine during idling period as the may cause permanent engine damage.
Ensure oil pressure warning lamp goes out within 5 seconds from engine start. If oil pressure warning lamp stays ON for more that 5 seconds, STOP ENGINE and recheck oil level.

I think they mean look under the bike for a large pool of oil...

20. Ensure engine oil filter cover, engine and oil tank drain plugs, and HCM filer cover (SE5 models) are not leaking.
21. Stop Engine

SM5 Model
22. Add 0.9L (1qt (U.S. liq)) of the recommended engine oil in the tank.
Note the total quantity is 3.9L (4.1qt (U.S. liq)).
23. Check oil level immediately and adjust if required.

SE5 Model
26. Add 1.2L (1.3qt (U.S. liq)) of the recommended engine oil in the tank.
Note the total quantity is 4.2L (4.4qt (U.S. liq)).
27. Check oil level immediately and adjust if required.
Note: When the engine oil filter and the HCM oil filter are replaced, the total oil quantity to add will be 4.3L (4.5qt (U.S. liq)).

JT

I have a practical observation that should be noted regarding this procedure. First, using 3 liters may or may not be OK, but 3 quarts is sometimes insufficient to get the oil light to go out in the specified time. Also be aware that it will be grossly insufficient if you rev the engine or try to shift before you add additional oil. Sometimes the system airlocks and 4 quarts can overfill the tank. That may be their thinking here, but it is better to add a little more...at least 3.5 quarts, before following this procedure further. JMHO

Never did figure out their discrepancy between the SE capacity listed in the specs (4.5 qts) and the quantities stated in their procedure (4.4 qts). I suspect it may be rounding error introduced by breaking the total into two parts. At any rate a little less oil helps prevent blow-by to the airbox, so 4.4 won't hurt in most cases...but it may not get the Spyder up to the mark. In other cases, it could overfill the Spyder if all the oil didn't drain. Better to sneak up on the last little bit, after riding the Spyder and getting it up to full operating temperature. JMHO
 
I did note a significant difference in oil level in the tank from just warming up the engine and having it at normal operating temperature the last time I checked the oil.

The service manual did elaborate on not revving the engine at all during the 2 minute idle period. The procedure did say 3.2 quarts for initial fill not 3 quarts, kinda scary if .2 quarts can make the difference in if the oil pressure is correct or not. I was wondering why the initial fill was so much lower than the total...

JT
 
I follow the procedure in the manual as far as adding three quarts, letting it idle and then adding the rest and going for a 10-mile ride to get it thoroughly up to temperature. On my SM5, I have consistently found that the total volume added should be 3.9 quarts if I'm aiming for the middle of the range, at full operating temperature. If I add 4.1 qts, it is too much, slightly overfull and definitely above the mid-point. Having it at full temp is important and makes a difference versus just "warmed up". I always let it drain for about an hour with both plugs out and the filter off so I think I'm getting it thoroughly drained. I aim for the midpoint in the hope that it will reduce the oil-in-the-airbox problem. I get tired of cleaning the airbox. Just my experience.
 
I follow the procedure in the manual as far as adding three quarts, letting it idle and then adding the rest and going for a 10-mile ride to get it thoroughly up to temperature. On my SM5, I have consistently found that the total volume added should be 3.9 quarts if I'm aiming for the middle of the range, at full operating temperature. If I add 4.1 qts, it is too much, slightly overfull and definitely above the mid-point. Having it at full temp is important and makes a difference versus just "warmed up". I always let it drain for about an hour with both plugs out and the filter off so I think I'm getting it thoroughly drained. I aim for the midpoint in the hope that it will reduce the oil-in-the-airbox problem. I get tired of cleaning the airbox. Just my experience.

The procedure in the service manual says add 3 Liters not 3 quarts. 3L = 3.2 quarts US liq.

Also the manual also states "...Check the oil level on the dipstick, it should be near or at the upper mark"

JT
 
I follow the procedure in the manual as far as adding three quarts, letting it idle and then adding the rest and going for a 10-mile ride to get it thoroughly up to temperature. On my SM5, I have consistently found that the total volume added should be 3.9 quarts if I'm aiming for the middle of the range, at full operating temperature. If I add 4.1 qts, it is too much, slightly overfull and definitely above the mid-point. Having it at full temp is important and makes a difference versus just "warmed up". I always let it drain for about an hour with both plugs out and the filter off so I think I'm getting it thoroughly drained. I aim for the midpoint in the hope that it will reduce the oil-in-the-airbox problem. I get tired of cleaning the airbox. Just my experience.

:agree: When i had a Spyder and changed the oil [Sm5] I would open 4 qt's pore 3 in , Warm it up then add the last qt for a total of 4... When i first got the Spyder [08] I would add a little over the 4 qt,s as per the manual, And in 500 miles or so latter it would burn the extra out, Then it would stay at that level till i changed the oil at 3k.
 
:agree: When i had a Spyder and changed the oil [Sm5] I would open 4 qt's pore 3 in , Warm it up then add the last qt for a total of 4... When i first got the Spyder [08] I would add a little over the 4 qt,s as per the manual, And in 500 miles or so latter it would burn the extra out, Then it would stay at that level till i changed the oil at 3k.

I ended up at about 4.3 to get it to the full mark on the dipstick. I actually measured what came out and this is about what I drained out.

Thanks to all for the advise and reponses.
 
With my SM5 I pour in 3 quarts, start it up to idle for a min to circulate then top it off with the last quart. Puts it right at the middle level on the stick. No issues, no oil in the box etc etc....


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I ended up at about 4.3 to get it to the full mark on the dipstick. I actually measured what came out and this is about what I drained out.

Thanks to all for the advise and reponses.

If you actually drained 4.3 out, it means there was more than that in there as some remains in the filter media. That sounds like a lot for an SM. Even the manual says only 4.1 and as I said, I've found 3.9 to get to the mid-point. Are you sure you are looking at the "full mark" on the dipstick and not the top of the cross-hatch pattern? BRP seems to be unique in the world in that the top of the cross-hatch is not the full mark. The full mark is a little rib in the middle of the cross hatch. From my experience, 4.3 would probably take it to the top of the cross hatch. Just a thought.
 
About an 1/8th inch over full

My oil level was low, just below registering on the dip stick. I checked after running the engine for about 4 minutes at idle. I put in 1/2 qt and that put it in the middle of the fill range. I ran the engine for 2 more minutes at idle, and put in a little more oil. Ran it again at idle, and now it shows about an 1/8th inch over the full mark. Will this cause me a problem, or is this OK?
 
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