I just finished my initial oil change on a 2012 RT with the manual transmission. 4 qts has the oil just to the bottom of the dipstick, at the add line? Everything I've read says 4 qts. Do they ever take more?
That seems to be typical for an SE.Spyderpops just changed my RT Ltd SE5 this week and it took 4.3 or so Quarts.
Cruzr joe
The 2011-2012 service manual says:
All Models
18. Pour 3L (3.2qt(U.S. liq.)) of the recommended oil into the oil tank.
19. Start engine and let idle for two minutes.
Do not rev up engine during idling period as the may cause permanent engine damage.
Ensure oil pressure warning lamp goes out within 5 seconds from engine start. If oil pressure warning lamp stays ON for more that 5 seconds, STOP ENGINE and recheck oil level.
I think they mean look under the bike for a large pool of oil...
20. Ensure engine oil filter cover, engine and oil tank drain plugs, and HCM filer cover (SE5 models) are not leaking.
21. Stop Engine
SM5 Model
22. Add 0.9L (1qt (U.S. liq)) of the recommended engine oil in the tank.
Note the total quantity is 3.9L (4.1qt (U.S. liq)).
23. Check oil level immediately and adjust if required.
SE5 Model
26. Add 1.2L (1.3qt (U.S. liq)) of the recommended engine oil in the tank.
Note the total quantity is 4.2L (4.4qt (U.S. liq)).
27. Check oil level immediately and adjust if required.
Note: When the engine oil filter and the HCM oil filter are replaced, the total oil quantity to add will be 4.3L (4.5qt (U.S. liq)).
JT
It's handy to just add three (metric) containers.I was wondering why the initial fill was so much lower than the total...
JT
I follow the procedure in the manual as far as adding three quarts, letting it idle and then adding the rest and going for a 10-mile ride to get it thoroughly up to temperature. On my SM5, I have consistently found that the total volume added should be 3.9 quarts if I'm aiming for the middle of the range, at full operating temperature. If I add 4.1 qts, it is too much, slightly overfull and definitely above the mid-point. Having it at full temp is important and makes a difference versus just "warmed up". I always let it drain for about an hour with both plugs out and the filter off so I think I'm getting it thoroughly drained. I aim for the midpoint in the hope that it will reduce the oil-in-the-airbox problem. I get tired of cleaning the airbox. Just my experience.
I follow the procedure in the manual as far as adding three quarts, letting it idle and then adding the rest and going for a 10-mile ride to get it thoroughly up to temperature. On my SM5, I have consistently found that the total volume added should be 3.9 quarts if I'm aiming for the middle of the range, at full operating temperature. If I add 4.1 qts, it is too much, slightly overfull and definitely above the mid-point. Having it at full temp is important and makes a difference versus just "warmed up". I always let it drain for about an hour with both plugs out and the filter off so I think I'm getting it thoroughly drained. I aim for the midpoint in the hope that it will reduce the oil-in-the-airbox problem. I get tired of cleaning the airbox. Just my experience.
:agree: When i had a Spyder and changed the oil [Sm5] I would open 4 qt's pore 3 in , Warm it up then add the last qt for a total of 4... When i first got the Spyder [08] I would add a little over the 4 qt,s as per the manual, And in 500 miles or so latter it would burn the extra out, Then it would stay at that level till i changed the oil at 3k.
I ended up at about 4.3 to get it to the full mark on the dipstick. I actually measured what came out and this is about what I drained out.
Thanks to all for the advise and reponses.