2011 Rt replacing Spark plugs and wires with Ron's

[Yelhelp]

OK I read all the threads I could find, and watched all the u-tubes for this project. I found lots of things that did not co-inside (?). Some said it is easier to take the truck off only two bolts on the bottom and four on the top , I found 6 on the top and two on the bottom and the trunk does not move, (well got over that, said to Hell with doing that, I'll put them all back ) I got the bike down to the point I need it to get the air box out so I can get to the front plug and complete that part of this.
I'm not real sure I want to put the same air filter back so I went to look at Kwel metal and jt's and whala there on jt's web is a note that reads "Note: Changing the air filter alone and not modifiying the exhaust in any way should not require a fuel mix controller. If you have a Y pipe OR aftermarket exhaust you may need a fuel mix controller." Well I have an aftermarket exhaust the 2 brothers slip on. So from the looks of it I can put my factory muffler back on or try and install this "Fuel mix controller" which does not make me feel all fuzy inside. But I'm sure I want nothing to do with trying to put this factory air box back in. What does one do with the hose that goes to the air box if I get the JT?
I bet before this is done lots of other ?'s will come up, but if I knew what I was doing I would just pay to have this done, I'm trying to learn how to do this for a reason, to learn ( besides my best warranty is up, maybe I should buy a new bike LOL)
any help is appreciated. :banghead::banghead::banghead:

 

[Chupaca]

I'll try....

Though mine is an RS, I have both the JT air filter and a Yoshimura 77 exhaust and did not install a fuel controller. For the additional hose to the air box I got an oil breather filter which JT added or offers with his kit. I know the RT air filters are a bear to deal with and some finally just cut them out. If you are running a custom exhaust you will not mind the sound of the airflow to the throttle body but can cut it down with the extra foam band JT offers. You will have easy access to all the engine, cooler running and better prrformance....your choice :thumbup:

 

[finless]

Should you decide to put the air box back in.... this video should help and make it MUCH easier to go back in and future removals.

Bob

 

[sawtooth]

No need to remove the air boc

I just finished removing and replacing my spark plugs and wires on my 2012 RT-s. (Baja Ron's plugs and wires) There is no need to remove the air box to remove the right side plug. I lifted my spyder up on 16" blocks then removed the side panels both left and right. I then remove the support and screen that's rear of the radiator. Now you have access to the RT side plug and wire. When you 1st look up to find the plug it looks impossible but it's actually fairly easy, don't let it intimidate you. A very bright light pointing to the plug area is a must. I sat on the floor and reached up with my hand with a pair of needle nose pliers and wiggled and poked at the wire boot and it came free of the plug fairly easy. To remove the plug you need the right combination of tools because you are very limited in height. I used a plug socket 3/8 drive and adapter from 3/8 to 1/4 drive then a 1/4 " beaker bar to loosen the plug. A swivel joint is also helpful in this process.The plug is not torqued very tight so it was no problem braking it loose. Once loose the plug can easily be spun out by hand using the plug socket. I tied a length of wire to the old plug wire before I removed it then tied the new wire to it and pulled it back through.

Bob

 

[Mazo EMS2]

Interesting...Whatever it takes I suppose. I did it the typical way. There is a metal mounting tab on the right side for panels and such, that is smack dab in the way. I simply bent that tab over to get the box out and back in....then simply bent the tab back where it belonged. Made the job MUCH simpler.