2011 RT Engine Vibration

[gypsy_100]

I've got a significant engine vibration showing up at 4,000-4,500 rpm. Not the belt as it happens in 4th and 5th gears at exactly the same rpm. It sounds like the vibration problems on the 2010 where the bolt was hitting the frame but I thought that was fixed long before the 2011's went into production. Anyone else have this problem or know a solution?

As an aside, possibly related, possibly not, I just installed the front brake lever which required taking off the muffler. My shop manual was permanently lost by the post office. Midwest kindly agreed to ship a second one but in the meantime I put the muffler back on by my best guess. Anyone know the proper torques for the hangar bolt and the two "spring bolts"? Is there any special procedure to be followed? Thanks

 

[Y Rider]

I have a 2011 RT LTD and it also has a vibration problem at the 4-4.5K RPM range. I put on Capt.Jim's RT belt tensioner and it reduced it significantly but it's still there. I am going to adjust the static belt tenstion a little tighter. With the Krikit II belt tension gauge the current belt tension reads 120 lbs. Most others say the belt tension should read approx. 160-180 lbs with the Krikit II. My dealer said it was in spec so they didn't change it but I feel it is way too loose. I can rotate the belt with my hand well over 90 degrees.

 

[RetiredCGRider]

You want the best shop manual then get this one

Here it is the best manual you can get, and the price is right.

http://www.green-manuals.com/motorcycles/can-am.htm $24.88

I have the Vibration also, it's worse then my Harley.

 

[gypsy_100]

Green Manual -- MidWest

That's the manual I ordered. In my e-mails to them, the return e-mail address is at MidWest Manuals so I concluded they were really the same outfit. Sounds like a great manual with lots of extras. All I need to do is actually receive it. My first manual was mailed on 8/15. Still not here as of 9/3 mail delivery. MidWest/GreenManuals sent a second copy on 9/1. Hopefully that one will get here.

 

[SPYDERJEFF]

I've got a significant engine vibration showing up at 4,000-4,500 rpm. Not the belt as it happens in 4th and 5th gears at exactly the same rpm. It sounds like the vibration problems on the 2010 where the bolt was hitting the frame but I thought that was fixed long before the 2011's went into production. Anyone else have this problem or know a solution?

These frames are different but we have had a few where the engine is hitting the frame. We have shimed the motor mounts (front,both sides 4.5mm). Have your dealer check for this, its hard to see so make sure they take the time to really check. It does feel the same as the 2010 when hitting so id guess this is could be the case with yours. The 2011 frame has smaller gussets now where the 2010 frame would hit the eng mount bolt so its not the same issue. What has happened is the engine will settle in its mount and the eng craddle will rest on the frame. Per BRP we shimed these. Hope this helps.


Jeff

 

[gypsy_100]

Motor Mount Check

Thanks. Can you describe for me where I should be looking to see if the engine is hitting? What panels to remove, where to look? I'd much rather go after this first myself to see if it's the problem, then try to convince the dealer to shim it.

 

[SPYDERJEFF]

Thanks. Can you describe for me where I should be looking to see if the engine is hitting? What panels to remove, where to look? I'd much rather go after this first myself to see if it's the problem, then try to convince the dealer to shim it.

This picture is at the front motor mount area. This shows the engine support resting on the center of the frame. The best way to see it is to look under the machine and up. It is hard to see. Can also remove the oil side panel (left side) and at the right angle can also see it. Hope this helps


Jeff

 

[gypsy_100]

Motor Mount Check

Great photo SpyderJeff. Thanks. Now, it looks like a lot of clearance in your photo. Is that the way it's supposed to look with proper clearance or is that a photo of one with inadequate clearance? Second question, do you shim between the motor mount and bracket or between motor mount and frame? Thanks again.

 

[SPYDERJEFF]

Great photo SpyderJeff. Thanks. Now, it looks like a lot of clearance in your photo. Is that the way it's supposed to look with proper clearance or is that a photo of one with inadequate clearance? Second question, do you shim between the motor mount and bracket or between motor mount and frame? Thanks again.

Shim the motor mount studs so the shims are touching the rubber mount. There are 2 lower studs (as you can see) and one upper stud. This pic its hard to tell but it is hitting the center part of the frame. Note the motor mount bracket bent where its welded to the frame. You can make out a rust line where paint has come off. A feeler gauge wont slide in where the frame is touching the motor mount (eng cradle brp calls it). With the shims its 4.5mm clearance. Hope this helps. Makes a big difference in how it rides! Customer on this unit said it has vibrated since new and now is like a different machine. Of course this guy is a former auto shop owner so he is picky and I would guess there could be many folks out there who don't even know they have a vibration problem.

Jeff