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Calling all 2014-2015 RT owners with "Belt Vibration"

I read this thread from start to finish, and am surprised that no one has posted the information about the Idler pulley / belt tensioner / vibration dampner that Doc Humphrey's of Roadster Renovations. This is a device that fits on the top of the belt, and will get rid of vibrations you don't even know exists, and is only about $130.00. I took off a Smooth Spyder tensioner that I ran for over a year and was happy with, just to try Doc's device out, and it is now sitting in the drawer of my workbench is interested in it. I had the Smooth Spyder set at 12 pound of pressure per instructions and it did a good enough job until I tried this one. Saw no reason to put it back on. Besides, the new setup only puts about 2 pounds or so of pressure, on the top of the belt, and less pull on the bearings. But I will say, what started this was BRP coming out with an idler pulley for the F3, Doc made an adapter first that used it on an RT. Worked well, but Doc decided he could do better, the BRP unit only had one bearing, Doc's has two. I've been running it now for over 4,000 miles and it still looks like new, my RT rides like I was in an automobile. There are some good posts about it here on SpyderLovers, and on FaceBook.

When my RT was new, I had some belt slap around 3,600 to 4,000 rpm that the Smooth spyder got rid of, but it really just moved it around. I guess I've talked enough, so I'll quit. If you don't believe me, that's ok. I'm not the only one who feels this is the way to go, you do what you want.

David
 
I read this thread from start to finish, and am surprised that no one has posted the information about the Idler pulley / belt tensioner / vibration dampner that Doc Humphrey's of Roadster Renovations. This is a device that fits on the top of the belt, and will get rid of vibrations you don't even know exists, and is only about $130.00. I took off a Smooth Spyder tensioner that I ran for over a year and was happy with, just to try Doc's device out, and it is now sitting in the drawer of my workbench is interested in it. I had the Smooth Spyder set at 12 pound of pressure per instructions and it did a good enough job until I tried this one. Saw no reason to put it back on. Besides, the new setup only puts about 2 pounds or so of pressure, on the top of the belt, and less pull on the bearings. But I will say, what started this was BRP coming out with an idler pulley for the F3, Doc made an adapter first that used it on an RT. Worked well, but Doc decided he could do better, the BRP unit only had one bearing, Doc's has two. I've been running it now for over 4,000 miles and it still looks like new, my RT rides like I was in an automobile. There are some good posts about it here on SpyderLovers, and on FaceBook.

When my RT was new, I had some belt slap around 3,600 to 4,000 rpm that the Smooth spyder got rid of, but it really just moved it around. I guess I've talked enough, so I'll quit. If you don't believe me, that's ok. I'm not the only one who feels this is the way to go, you do what you want.

David


I have to agree! I just put the BRP idler pulley on my F3-T and it got rid of all belt vibrations at all speeds. Now I may put
the idler pulley on my RTS even though the vibrations have never been hardly noticeable on it from day one.
Toby
 
I have to agree! I just put the BRP idler pulley on my F3-T and it got rid of all belt vibrations at all speeds. Now I may put
the idler pulley on my RTS even though the vibrations have never been hardly noticeable on it from day one.
Toby

Toby, you might want to do a bit more checking before you do this. There has been some instances of the BRP pulley bearings going bad with in a couple of thousand miles. Doc Humphreys setup uses a double bearing roller.

David
 
EXACTLY!
and another way to decrease or rid the bike of vibration is a good wheel balance AND a Laser Alignment.

AJ
It has been described as a "Harmonic Vibration". Perhaps by dropping a gear, you're just moving the frequencies around enough, that it stops the vibration... :dontknow:
 
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Bought brand new last June.I didnt buy the maintenance service contract.... 6 years or 6 services At 3000 miles paid $312 for oil change and 3000 mile service...they signed they did both in operators manual. (60 month extended really 3 years...wont go into that)

I always had slight vibration on handlebars no where else that I noticed. I lived with it...wasn't bad...

at 9661 miles had oil changed last Friday and major checks done, had them sign operators manual that they performed all items under 9300 mile service and they changed a very dirty air filter. $415.00

on way home had vibration like a portable hot water foot massager everywhere. called them when I was in garage getting off bike, taking it back Tues. when you ride a bike you get to know what is normal for your bike....I want to know is this the NEW normal after the checked stuff and tweaked stuff, IF they did...they did something or its a vibration coincidence.......it rides different now.


Misc. Questions
.
When you replace a rear tire do you ask them to check the alignment at that time, is not that part of install to make sure tire is running true? just asking, have not replaced tire yet. getting close 9661

about the vibration does the ECM needs tweaking back to where it was IF it was adjusted when it was there for oil change?????
Have them loosen belt? if they adjusted it, (what bothers me about this is that its all the time, not at a certain speed) I put it in N and its constant consistent vibration even when winding up and down the throttle with foot on brake lol. its not the tires, or belt...its not moving....in N

OR Just
Tell them its an engine problem and make the running of the engine smoother?

any and all suggestions will be considered, I take her back to dealer Tues. closed on Mondays.

I would not have a Ride Now dealer check your alignment but I wouldn't have them change my oil either.
 
Good timing.

Those who know me know I ride a lot. I own a '14 RT-S, I, like many have experienced this vibration. But something slowly started happening. I changed to a General Altimax RT 43 last September 3rd. A was running a Kumho KH 16 before. I like this General. The vibration slowly starting to fade away.
I was out riding last Thursday and felt, and heard a loud clunk, then another. I had to pull over. I noticed a spot on the drive belt, looked underneath and saw a tooth missing. By the time I rode 14 miles home, half the remaining teeth were gone. Had to have it towed. The tire didn't need changed, it had 28,000 miles on it and I thought it had another 5000, but I had them put another General on. I picked up the bike the next day and they had the old belt laying on the counter. I was amazed how long it was! Right then I thought about the vibration. From the front sprocket to the rear it has to be 3 feet or better. And in my mind I can see the belt fluttering. Some people on this forum have used belt tensioners that put tension on top of the belt. They claim the vibration is either gone or greatly reduced. To my point, the original belt lasted 108,352 miles. With the new belt and rear tire, that vibration was back, bad. My next farkle, belt tensioner. If that cures it, then I'll firmly believe that fluttering is the vibration. If somebody could get a camera down there....
Buckeye Chuck
 
BRP has nothing to do with it.

ALL vehicles are susceptible to Harmonic Vibration - repeat ALL!
In larger vehicles you may not hear or feel it, but it is there. It may not happen on all roads but it will on others.
It's just a matter of physics.
I one finds it that annoying, get a pulley and be done with it.

AJ
How does a person get BRP's Attention. We paid a lot of money for these bikes, why should we as customers put up with this known problem? Going slower or faster isn't the answer. "Fix The Dam Problem'. BRP has known about this problem for two years. It's not the dealers fault by any means! I have a new 2015 RT limited, I love the machine, but not the vibration. BRP is selling these bikes with a known problem, is it legal to sell a defective product? I know it isn't unsafe to ride, but it is known problem. I was in Sturgis this year, I spoke with a BRP rep. He said they would try to have it fixed by 2016! Great, what about the rest of us??
 
BRP has nothing to do with it.

ALL vehicles are susceptible to Harmonic Vibration - repeat ALL!
In larger vehicles you may not hear or feel it, but it is there. It may not happen on all roads but it will on others.
It's just a matter of physics.
I one finds it that annoying, get a pulley and be done with it.

AJ

Even though they balance the crankshafts when built, they will still put a harmonic balancer on the front of the crank to minimize the vibration. The transfer of power from the engine to the wheels has always been an issue, regardless of driveshaft, chain, or belt.
The Vibration Damper works.
 
:agree: :clap: :2thumbs:
I added one of Doc's Vibration Dampers this past Winter. As soon as I broke the bike out of storage, fired it up, and got out onto the highway: the difference was apparent! :yes:

This is the review I've been waiting to see here. Thanks Bob, I appreciate it.

David
 
When BRP came out with their own damer for the F3 models: I started "getting interested" in the, :D
Doc's version has a dual-bearing setup that should be much more reliable! :2thumbs:
 
Toby, you might want to do a bit more checking before you do this. There has been some instances of the BRP pulley bearings going bad with in a couple of thousand miles. Doc Humphreys setup uses a double bearing roller.

David

I have heard of that happening and if and when it does I will add Doc's wheel with the double bearings and use the
BRP bracket. I understand that this will work, if not I will change the whole thing, but for now I just wanted to make
sure the idler pulley would solve part of my vibration problem. The crappy Kenda front tires are the other part of
the problem but they are going to be replaced very soon as soon as my other front wheels arrive.
Toby
 
vibration

Doc's tensioner was a life saver on my 2014 RTS .The vibration at 70-75 is gone. Couldn't do 670 ml day on the interstate without it
:thumbup:
 
This vibration - Are y'all talking about the vibration I feel in my RT when it is under stress, like going up a hill or accelerating, especially with a passenger, or is this something else?

Thanks
 
Let me add my two cents to this discussion, a heavier sway bar, or laser alignment, will having nothing to do with a vehicles vibration. If your wheels are out of balance, the vibration with be speed sensitive. The vibration that this conversation deals with is rpm sensitive. ie: the vibration will change according to the rpm you are running, and can be anything from a buzz to a slap, and can be changed or eliminated by changing the belt tension. Before spending any money, you can readjust your belt tension and see if it has any effect on the vibration you are feeling. I'm not real picky about this, as I've been riding motorcycles for a pretty good while. Mine became a problem because at highway speeds ( 70-80 mph ) 3500 to 4000 rpm, it changed from a buzz to a slap and was very annoying. I first spent a good bit of change and installed a Smooth Spyder belt tensioner, a nicely made unit that remedied my problem, and I was a happy camper. When Doc Humphrey decided to make an adapter for the BRP idler pulley so it could be used on RT's, he asked for volunteers to test his product. I was one of those initial testers. I mean, for the price of the idler pulley ($36.00) I figured I didn't have anything to loose. I took off the belt tensioner (which by the way was set to put 12 pounds of pressure on the bottom of the belt) and installed the BRP / Doc unit which put maybe 2 or 3 pounds of pressure on the top of the belt, and my first impression was not very kind. But, I then put on my helmet and went for a ride. I spent the next three hours riding all over North Florida, trying to induce a vibration. I did very thing from lugging my engine to over reving (that isn't really true because you can not over rev. your Spyder, it has an 8,200 rpm limiter built in). Up and down hills (what few we have), slow speed, how ever I could think of to make my RT vibrate, and finally gave up. I will admit that I did get to a couple of places that I thought it was going to start vibrating, but nope, it never did. It even got rid of vibrations that I was aware I had. So now, I have a little more than 4,000 miles on the Doc's unit, and I just checked it yesterday, and after running my finger over the roller, I can say, it looks like it did when new, no marks, scuffs, or wear marks on the roller, or the belt, and absolutely no play in the bearing or roller. Going down the road, it feels like I am sitting in my car. It is an easy mod to do, and relatively cheap considering what you get for your money. Don't take my word for it, use the search engine here on the forum and / or Facebook. Go to Doc Humphrey's page, Roadster Renovations, he's sponsor here on the forum.

Enough, I'll get off my soap box. B ut wait, I do have a question: I thought it was not possible to pick a wheel up going around a curve with our older Spyders. I have a 2015 RT Limited, and yesterday, while going around a right hand turn, I realized that my right wheel was about a foot off the ground. It happened so smoothly that I didn't realize it until my wife asked me what I was doing. After the turn as I straightened out, the wheel just settled down and off we went. And no, I didn't try to do it, it just happened. Catcvh you later.

David VonStein
 
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