2010 RT limited - new to me bugs

[PatriotRider]

2 questions:

1) the frunk open button on the "dash" doesn't seem to work...
<weird it shares the rocker with the parking brake>
am I doing something wrong or is there a common fix for this.
thank goodness the key also opens it

2) the rear trunk lid only has a left side hydraulic unit "lifter" that keeps the lid open and puts some resistence on it's movement. It seems a bit weak for it's job and I suspect it should have another on the right side for a total of 2. Someone installed a led strip kit all over the machine and wires show hidden below the hinges. I wonder if they forgot to put a lifter back.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

LIFTER

No right side lifter on any RT................unless it was DIY by owner.........not necessary.......unless you have a heavy outside rack....then just get a stronger piston ......Mike :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

Key needs to be turned on (EDIT: engine needs to be running--thanks folks, I missed that) for the "frunk" release to work. If that does not do it, check the fuses. I don't remember which one, but someone will have the information and share.

The fact that the brake and frunk release were on the same switch, got the switch dumped from the line for safety reasons.

 

[Chupaca]

Let's see..!!

check the frunk switch. Sometimes gets bent and does not allow proper function. Like BLUEKNIGHT911 said only one and if needed a stronger one can be installed. Couls add one if needed...:thumbup:

 

[wiredgeorge]

In the 2010/2011 RT shop manual, they talk about an upgraded bushing where the latch closes. The 2010 bushing has a very small thin part and you must be lined up on it real carefully otherwise the thing will shut if you give the frunk a whack shut but won't want to open. The later bushing is likely thinner all the way across. When you shut the frunk the next time, make sure the hook on the latch is dead straight with the thin part of the bushing. I don't have a button on my RT so don't know what could be wrong electrically.

 

[HamburgerHelper]

There is a microswitch on the latch mechanism that informs the system when the frunk is closed.
If the microswitch isn't properly aligned or is broken the solenoid won't fire to open the frunk.

 

[PatriotRider]

I found this video by Finless Bob describing the problem & fix
Unfortunately, the trunk switch is not my machine's problem
I don't think it's getting any power from the button
I guess there's a fuse & relay in the front fusebox under the frunk

thanx for everyone that posted in my thread here

 

[Bob Denman]

On the 2010s; the bike actually needs to be running.
But I hate to have to ask you if it was...

 

[JAEN]

On the 2010s; the bike actually needs to be running.
But I hate to have to ask you if it was...

CORRECT - On the 2010 RT , the engine must be running.

 

[Bob Denman]

That was one of the improvements that BRP made for 2011... The key only needed to be turned-on. :thumbup:

 

[Highwayman2013]

I found this video by Finless Bob describing the problem & fix
Unfortunately, the trunk switch is not my machine's problem
I don't think it's getting any power from the button
I guess there's a fuse & relay in the front fusebox under the frunk

thanx for everyone that posted in my thread here

Fusebox should be at the rear of the frunk under the little cover.

 

[HamburgerHelper]

I found this video by Finless Bob describing the problem & fix
Unfortunately, the trunk switch is not my machine's problem
I don't think it's getting any power from the button
I guess there's a fuse & relay in the front fusebox under the frunk

thanx for everyone that posted in my thread here

The switch you push for frunk release is in a socket buried in the tupperware.
If it is not the fuse or relay then the next place to look is to make sure the switch is seated firmly in the socket.

 

[finless]

Here is what I did for the trunk lid shock to make it a little stronger.

Bob

 

[PatriotRider]

Here is what I did for the trunk lid shock to make it a little stronger.

Bob

funny part about this is I race a Kyosho 1/8 scale dirt buggy at a nearby outside track...just recently upgraded the shocks

btw, it's very common to only purchase a set of springs pretty cheap...don't see the need to purchase the whole shock

If it's not anywhere else, I'll post a spring that works for me and a supplier at best price.

great vids, Bob...thank you :bowdown:
I can't help picturing you walking around with your go pro mounted helmet on even when fixing something in your driveway !!! :yikes:

 

[PatriotRider]

Here is what I did for the trunk lid shock to make it a little stronger.

see video below

Bob

Bob or anyone: I see the top of the shock but the bottom is buried...any help is appreciated on how to get to the bottom of the shock...thanx

btw: I found 4 surplus springs in my r/c buggy stuff...if one of them works well on this project, I'll prob offer up the other three gratus;
not a big deal as a pair of springs can be purchased for $5or6 on ebay...I'll play with it as rear springs are more robust than fronts and I don't know what might work best as far as firmness