Trailer bearings

[Grandpa Pete]

Hello Spyders and Spyderettes, I have an issue. I have an RT 622 i Mag silver. Last Nov I was going deer hunting and upon accelerating on to I35W in the Twin Cities, I heard a loud scream from behind me. Come to find out, my passenger side trailer tire was locked up tight. The scream I heard was the tire dragging on the freeway. Now, come to find out, you can't replace the bearings, as the inner bearing was shredded. I just got back from my dealer and had to order a totally new hub (for lack of a better term). I figured bearings would be 10 bucks.....81 dollars later, It'll be in next week. I looked at the computer screen off a blown up picture of the wheel hub and suspension. It shows no bearings are in the hub itself.
Help me Obi-Wans, your my only hope. ps.. I'm no mechanic and just try to figure stuff out:shocked::hun::gaah::dontknow:View attachment 100716View attachment 100716

 

[oldguyinTX]

Ouch!!:yikes: Made me get out the owner's manual for my 2013 RT-622 trailer, and sure enough, starting on page 25 it goes through the inspection, lubrication, and replacement of the bearings. Page 24 says to check them every year. You can bet that I will do exactly that before pulling it to Rehoboth Beach DE in early August.

 

[Cruzr Joe]

READ THIS:


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...take-note-PUBLIC-SERVICE-NOTE&highlight=cruzr



Cruzr Joe

 

[tip]

bearings

How about a shot of the back side.
The front looks normal.
Tip

 

[MouthPiece]

Thanks for reminding me to have mine changed. I have just about 6,000 miles on my 2012 622 trailer. I had it inspected just before I went on our 1,200 mile cruise/spyder ride to Key West and back. I'd say it's time now.
Again, my thanks to you for the reminder.

Chris

 

[Chupaca]

Don't know..!!

If others talk about replacing the bearings why not yours..?? I know they need inspecting and repacking and back home we would just machine it and go with a better bearing. Third world countries are masters at the art of keeping things going for ever....doing that here may not be cost effective and the new hub will be the best solution...:dontknow:

 

[Grandpa Pete]

to Mouthpiece...........There are no replacement bearings listed by BRP for the trailer. I can find no replacement bearings for this trailer anywhere. The way they looked to me in the scematic was a sealed bearing. My error

 

[PW2013STL]

Pete,

The new hub will come with the bearings in it. BRP wants the bearings re packed, but they do not sell the inner dust shield so you can pack them correctly. They also do not sell the bearings so if you need to replace them you have to purchase a new hub :banghead:.

I did write down the number printed on the bearing when I was re packing them so I will see if I can track them down for you. I have the part number of the dust shield that will work and will post that with (hopefully) the bearing info.

Les

 

[PW2013STL]

Bearings are Knott L44649 and should be the same as Timken L44649. Inner dust shield TCM 15192TB, or SKF 14840

 

[Highwayman2013]

Someone has to make those same size bearings.

 

[PW2013STL]

Someone has to make those same size bearings.

See above post.

 

[Pennyrick]

Bearings are Knott L44649 and should be the same as Timken L44649. Inner dust shield TCM 15192TB, or SKF 14840

But wouldn't it cost just as much or more to find someone to press out the old bearing and press in the new one? $81 doesn't seem to be that much in the entire scheme of things.

I have both our trailers done every year in the spring at a local trailer dealer. They clean and repack and replace both seals on each trailer at a cost of $7.50 per seal. Total bill for both trailers comes to $130 and I think that is good price for that insurance.

So far the hub bearings have held up for four seasons (trailers were purchased in 2010) so perhaps the hub replacement may be something to think about for this year.

 

[PW2013STL]

But wouldn't it cost just as much or more to find someone to press out the old bearing and press in the new one? $81 doesn't seem to be that much in the entire scheme of things.

I have both our trailers done every year in the spring at a local trailer dealer. They clean and repack and replace both seals on each trailer at a cost of $7.50 per seal. Total bill for both trailers comes to $130 and I think that is good price for that insurance.

So far the hub bearings have held up for four seasons (trailers were purchased in 2010) so perhaps the hub replacement may be something to think about for this year.

Bearings are not a press fit very easy to do. I purchased the seals for $8.00 for the pair and did not need to replace the bearings (which I found on Amason for under $9.00 each). Now if the race is bad that is a press in part.

My total cost was $10.00 to re pack both wheels.

 

[Grandpa Pete]

THANK YOU LES:yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes:
The dust seal/rear seal on the back is intact. The front race looks very clean. No pitting or braising or heat soak. The front washer/seal is like brand new, castle nut is good, and I did'nt kill the dust cap that covers it all. There's light at the end of the tunnel..........:clap::clap:

 

[TexasSpyder]

Hello Spyders and Spyderettes, I have an issue. I have an RT 622 i Mag silver. Last Nov I was going deer hunting and upon accelerating on to I35W in the Twin Cities, I heard a loud scream from behind me. Come to find out, my passenger side trailer tire was locked up tight. The scream I heard was the tire dragging on the freeway. Now, come to find out, you can't replace the bearings, as the inner bearing was shredded. I just got back from my dealer and had to order a totally new hub (for lack of a better term). I figured bearings would be 10 bucks.....81 dollars later, It'll be in next week. I looked at the computer screen off a blown up picture of the wheel hub and suspension. It shows no bearings are in the hub itself.
Help me Obi-Wans, your my only hope. ps.. I'm no mechanic and just try to figure stuff out:shocked::hun::gaah::dontknow:View attachment 100716View attachment 100716

I had the same "lockup" on my rt622, only I was in heavy traffic and took a minute to get off the road which ruined one wheel and tire also. BRP replaced both hubs and the wheel and tire under warranty. I only had about 200 miles on the trailer at the time.

J. D.

 

[moorerandy]

RT-622 Trailer - replaced wheel bearing seal & added Bearing Buddy protectors

Thanks to all the discussion here about RT-622 trailer bearings and grease seals, I was motivated to inspect our trailer's wheel hubs and discovered a leaking grease seal on our 2013 Can-Am RT-622 trailer.

Replaced the leaking grease seal, repacked the wheel bearings with water-resistant grease, and added a set of Bearing Buddy trailer wheel bearing protectors. Following provides part number info for quick reference:

1.) Grease Seal (Aka: Oil Seal or Aka: Inner Dust Shield) - manufactured by Chicago Rawhide (as suggested by others --- I took the wheel hub to the NAPA Auto Parts store where we measured and confirmed the required grease seal part number):
NAPA Part Number: 14832 --- purchased from local NAPA Auto Parts store.

2.) Bearing Buddy - Stainless Steel trailer wheel bearing protector:
Model Number: 1980SS (Indicated to fit Outer Bearing Cone: L44649) --- purchased from local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

Knott bearing number as depicted on trailer hub wheel bearings: L44649

3.) Bearing Buddy Bra (aka Extended Dust Cap):
Model Number: 19B (Indicated on Bearing Buddy package to fit Bearing Buddy Model 1980) --- purchased from local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

Again thanks to our Spyderlovers discussion Forum --- I can only imagine that we have been spared from experiencing a trailer hub bearing failure somewhere down the road. Thank You & HooYah!
:clap::yes:

 

[jaherbst]

Thanks to all the discussion here about RT-622 trailer bearings and grease seals, I was motivated to inspect our trailer's wheel hubs and discovered a leaking grease seal on our 2013 Can-Am RT-622 trailer.

Replaced the leaking grease seal, repacked the wheel bearings with water-resistant grease, and added a set of Bearing Buddy trailer wheel bearing protectors. Following provides part number info for quick reference:

1.) Grease Seal (Aka: Oil Seal or Aka: Inner Dust Shield) - manufactured by Chicago Rawhide (as suggested by others --- I took the wheel hub to the NAPA Auto Parts store where we measured and confirmed the required grease seal part number):
NAPA Part Number: 14832 --- purchased from local NAPA Auto Parts store.

2.) Bearing Buddy - Stainless Steel trailer wheel bearing protector:
Model Number: 1980SS (Indicated to fit Outer Bearing Cone: L44649) --- purchased from local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

Knott bearing number as depicted on trailer hub wheel bearings: L44649

3.) Bearing Buddy Bra (aka Extended Dust Cap):
Model Number: 19B (Indicated on Bearing Buddy package to fit Bearing Buddy Model 1980) --- purchased from local O'Reilly Auto Parts store.

Again thanks to our Spyderlovers discussion Forum --- I can only imagine that we have been spared from experiencing a trailer hub bearing failure somewhere down the road. Thank You & HooYah!
:clap::yes:

Bearing Buddies only get grease to the outer bearing not the inside bearing. Please note.

Jack

 

[moorerandy]

Thanks Jack ... a good reminder to repack all four of the trailer's wheel hub bearings.

 

[cyclelover63]

Bearings are Knott L44649 and should be the same as Timken L44649. Inner dust shield TCM 15192TB, or SKF 14840

Other than this,is it pretty well the same as any other trailer repacking job?

 

[moorerandy]

Yes - just standard wheel bearings ... two on each hub.

Grease Seal (Aka: Oil Seal or Aka: Inner Dust Shield) - manufactured by Chicago Rawhide (as suggested by others --- I took the wheel hub to the NAPA Auto Parts store where we measured and confirmed the required grease seal part number):

NAPA Part Number: 14832 --- purchased from local NAPA Auto Parts store.