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Hindle leaks

mjw930

New member
I know there are numerous posts on the Hindle leak at the collector and I have that one, very slight and moves with the clamp's top joint. I'm going to play around a bit more then probably use the copper exhaust RTV I use on almost everything.

I have another leak that I haven't seen anyone mention. This one comes from the seam where the black wrap is riveted to the front brushed cover. It puffs out a little air from the bottom of the pipe at that joint.

Could others who have the Hindle put their hand under the front of the pipe right where the arrow is and see if you have a leak too?

View attachment 1431
 
I have a Hindle and suspect a leak at the joint. How do you tell if you have a leak? Hindle doesn't sound the same as if it is at idle but it doesn't backfire either. Do you just put your hand near it and try to feel for the hot exaust?
 
I have a Hindle and suspect a leak at the joint. How do you tell if you have a leak? Hindle doesn't sound the same as if it is at idle but it doesn't backfire either. Do you just put your hand near it and try to feel for the hot exaust?

Yes, mostly it's by feel so you need to be REAL careful when you're moving your hands around. Another way, if you smoke, is to put a cigarette / cigar under the joint, the smoke will track with any leak.

On the main body leak it's not very hot so it's easy to feel. I haven't run the calibration sequence so the pipe hasn't gone through a heat cycle. Perhaps that will seal the main body leak.
 
I have another leak that I haven't seen anyone mention. This one comes from the seam where the black wrap is riveted to the front brushed cover. It puffs out a little air from the bottom of the pipe at that joint.

I don't think I would be concerned about that one. If the black metal is a cover (and I just looked at mine in the box), there's usually a small drain hole at that spot for condensation.

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Update,

I removed the pipe and cleaned off all the copper RTV and decided to install it as per the instructions. First I trued up the pipe to make it round again then installed it without the spring and made sure the pipe mate surface was perfectly straight with the pipe hanging loosely on the rear bolt. I torqued it to the requisite 34 nm (26 ft-lbs) then tightened the bracket bolt. I then ran it through the 15 minute calibration cycle.

Initially there was the leak at the wrap seam and a small one on the collector. However, once it came up to temperature the collector expanded enough to seal off the leak and the leak at the seam was almost gone.

Once it cooled I retorqued the bolts and installed the spring (it's not really needed but hey, I hate left over parts).

I'm going to let my wife ride it the way it is and see how it goes. At worst case I'll let the dealer know about it at the first service. It's a Can-Am part so it shouldn't matter that I didn't buy it from them.
 
I need a better high temp silicone that what I have, I have now re-done my hindle twice and after a good days ride there is a leaks again. Each of the two times the leak is at a different place, granted it small but with the leak is making me get back fires all the time that is how I know there is a leak. The silicone I got (from Auto Zone) says for exhaust and claims it can handle up to 750 degree temperature not sure how hot it gets at that point or maybe I am not doing it right or need to put a lot more around the pipe before I slip on the exhaust. Where can I get some better silicone and any advice please, I know most says it too little to do harm but I know it's there and think it should not leak.
 
If you look in the muffler section at Advanced they sell a specific joint sealant for exhaust pipes. I used this on three Hindles with no leaks.If you use the RTV you have to let it sit overnite to dry before you can ride.The other types dries in 15 minutes.I think the exhaust sealant is made by Walker Mufflers.
 
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