2014 RTL SE6 ... squeaking

[Jedye]

I've posted this before but the issue is getting worse. The left front tire is squeaking BAD. It use to just do it at speeds under 10mpg but since I've had my laser alignment, it's squeaking up to 40mph now. It's very loud and annoying.

I just came back from Hattiesburg Cycles and they said it's normal... that changing the pads out may not fix the issue. This is my third Spyder... I know it's not "normal".

I've tried slamming the brakes at 20mph to clear any grime or build up but that doesn't work. It's happening whether I press my brakes or not. It's noticeable more when going from 0-30mph (obviously the brakes not depressed then).

Any one else having this issue? Any suggestions?

 

[Bob Denman]

Have you actually lifted the front of the bike, and tried just spinning the left front wheel?
If it's a bearing; you'll know it in about a split-second... :shocked:
And tell the dealer that it AIN'T normal! :gaah:

 

[Chupaca]

Agree..!!

:agree: I have also seen the disk cleaned with "Simple Green" has cleared up many a squeal. You do have to stand on the brakes a few times. But it is not normal and you may have to have someone else check it...:thumbup:

 

[Jedye]

I haven't tried cleaning it with simple green... some else had recommended purple power but then other's said don't use any chemicals.

Update, it's just after 10pm and I took the bike out around town. At first, there was no squeaking but as the ride went on, it would squeak while decelerating (without hitting the brake) around the 8-12mph mark. Upon acceleration, the squeaking would stop. So this is sounding like once the pads or the caliper gets hot, it starts making noise. There's no grabbing or anything else that make it feel like the brakes are sticking though.

 

[Bob Denman]

The pads are dragging...
You can try cleaning those pins, that they slide on... :thumbup:

 

[Netminder]

Whenever I do my brakes on any vehicle, I use brake lube on any metal to metal parts in the brake caliper/pad, as Bob mentioned the sliding pins need it for sure. I still think you should also take Bobs suggestion and lift the front wheel and spin it just to eliminate the bearing as the culprit. Mine squeaks when I first take it out, but goes a way a few miles into the ride. Good luck with finding the issue!:doorag:

 

[BikerDoc]

I've posted this before but the issue is getting worse. The left front tire is squeaking BAD. It use to just do it at speeds under 10mpg but since I've had my laser alignment, it's squeaking up to 40mph now. It's very loud and annoying.

I just came back from Hattiesburg Cycles and they said it's normal... that changing the pads out may not fix the issue. This is my third Spyder... I know it's not "normal".

I've tried slamming the brakes at 20mph to clear any grime or build up but that doesn't work. It's happening whether I press my brakes or not. It's noticeable more when going from 0-30mph (obviously the brakes not depressed then).

Any one else having this issue? Any suggestions?

The next dealer whose response is "that's normal", should be ****!

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: :gaah:

 

[PMK]

Whenever I do my brakes on any vehicle, I use brake lube on any metal to metal parts in the brake caliper/pad, as Bob mentioned the sliding pins need it for sure. I still think you should also take Bobs suggestion and lift the front wheel and spin it just to eliminate the bearing as the culprit. Mine squeaks when I first take it out, but goes a way a few miles into the ride. Good luck with finding the issue!:doorag:

It's a 2014 with Brembo front brakes. Those are post mount so the sliding parts are the pistons only.

As for "Purple" soaps, be forewarned that those are all corrosive on aluminum and WILL stain or remove anodize coatings. I seldom use them at all.

Left front squeaker...jack the corner only and spin the wheel. Look for a bent disc.

Remove the wheel, remove the disc, clean all surface to ensure flatness (wipe with a rag) use a new set of clocked wheel holes and install the wheel assembly, torque to specs.

See if the disc wobbles.

As a second resort, swap the discs from left to right and right to left. It may take some miles to verify as the parts rebed in, but could be a possibility.

Also, with the wheel and disc removed, you can hand spin the hub to see if it will make noise.

Overall, the Spyder is pretty simple and easy to work with.

PK

 

[PMK]

Longshot, see if the lightening holes in the disc are all chamfered. Check both sides of the disc.

Not there, to inspect or see it, but it is a possibility.

PK

 

[outlawsix]

Okay im curious. What is "use a new set of clocked wheel holes" I have wrenched a thing or two but have never heard this term before.

 

[PMK]

Okay im curious. What is "use a new set of clocked wheel holes" I have wrenched a thing or two but have never heard this term before.

For Outlawsix and thers, the disc slides off the wheel studs, reindex it to a new position 1/3 turn either clockwise or anti-clockwise direction.

The same can be done with the wheel.

In the overall picture of this.

He wants the problem solved, it may be as simple as disc runout from dirt clamped between the disc and hub.

Also, we have no indcication of a real problem except brakes contaminated with brake dust from what others have posted.

Some things make little sense, why would it get worse after alignment, unless the wheel was removed.

Could it be a hub with an improperly machined surface for the disc / wheel to mount to?

In a simplest hope, the left wheel was not properly tightened to specs and allowed the wheel to wobble and the disc to have runout, but was not severe enough to be felt in the bars.

Honestly I don't know the solution, but a change to something may offer an indication of what to focus on.

I hope he resolves it, since the noise can be a distraction.

Myself, I would avoid the soap and water to remove dust in the calipers and pads in preference to remove the pads and clean with Brakleen, also wipe the disc.

PK

 

[Jedye]

[SUP]If it helps with the diagnostics, originally, the wheel was WAY out of balance. I had it fixed after the first 600 miles. The wheel was removed then. Come to think of it, the squeaking started not too long after that....around the 1000 mile mark.[/SUP]

 

[outlawsix]

Wheel wasn't removed for alignment....but i see what you mean. No logical reason why it should be louder after the laser alignment. Will tear into it tomorrow and see what is discovered.

 

[PMK]

[SUP]If it helps with the diagnostics, originally, the wheel was WAY out of balance. I had it fixed after the first 600 miles. The wheel was removed then. Come to think of it, the squeaking started not too long after that....around the 1000 mile mark.[/SUP]

Pull the wheel, make certain no "crud" is making something wobble, such as the disc. Reinstall and torque it correctly. I would not clean a thing except flat mating surfaces.

Basically try and make it change with one simple correction. Best to troubleshoot and locate, then sort it out.

FWIW, what you find on the left, I would certainly check the same on the other side...

Remember though, it could sill be just simple brake dust, it does happen.

PK

 

[outlawsix]

He pressure washed it earlier today and said a chunk came out. He didnt know what the chunk was, and i didnt see it either. But it was a tad bit more quiet afterwards....

I agree, when dealing with a unknown issue, change only one thing at a time.

 

[Jedye]

Thanks, outlawsix and PMK!!!

 

[BajaRon]

If the pads were dragging you'd probably notice a pull to that side. But that is easy to check. If you ride a ways and do not use your brakes. Use engine compression to slow down and stop with a minimal brake usage as possible. Then feel both front rotors. They should both be cold.

Be very careful, though. Put your hand NEAR the rotor first to see if you can feel any heat coming off of it. Then just touch the rotor for a split second and take your hand away. It takes .02 seconds for temperature to register with your brain. And then another .02 seconds to send a response back to your hand. That is way too long if the rotor is hot.

So just touch it as quickly as you can and remove your hand. Then wait. If the rotor was hot it will register. Do this a few times leaving your hand against the rotor for just a split second longer each time until you get a good reading on temperature.

If the rotor is not hot then compare temperatures between the 2 front rotors. They should be the same. If one rotor is hotter than the other then you have a dragging pad.

Raising the front and spinning the wheels will also tell you if your pads are dragging and avoids the possibility of a burn. Though if done as I describe above, you won't get burned.

You can also take some 300/400 grit Emory paper and sand both sides of the rotor. Sand in the direction of rotation (not cross ways to rotation). This gets rid of the embedded brake material which can, at times, cause brake squeal. The easiest way to do this is to lift the wheel off the ground, Spin the wheel with one hand while applying pressure to the Emory paper to one surface of the rotor with the other.

If all is working as designed, this product works very well and will cure almost any pad vibration induced noise (the most common source of squeal).

 

[mrfats]

Oh, how we miss Scotty....

 

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: :agree: