Maintnance Questions

[sabunim5]

I'm getting ready for my 12K mile service. 1) In going through the shop manual I am confused by the "Y" exhaust pipe front gasket - Replace. There are three gaskets on that pipe. Do you replace all three? If not which one? I kind of think it is sad that the shop manual doesn't tell you. 2) Has anyone done the brake fluid replacement using only the manual procedure and and skipping the extended BUDS portion? Thanks in advance for any replies. :thumbup:
sabunim5 :spyder:

 

[ataDude]

IMHO, if they're not leaking, leave 'em alone. Replace them as needed.
.

I'm getting ready for my 12K mile service. 1) In going through the shop manual I am confused by the "Y" exhaust pipe front gasket - Replace. There are three gaskets on that pipe. Do you replace all three? If not which one? I kind of think it is sad that the shop manual doesn't tell you. 2) Has anyone done the brake fluid replacement using only the manual procedure and and skipping the extended BUDS portion? Thanks in advance for any replies. :thumbup:
sabunim5 :spyder:

 

[smokster]

I'm getting ready for my 12K mile service. 1) In going through the shop manual I am confused by the "Y" exhaust pipe front gasket - Replace. There are three gaskets on that pipe. Do you replace all three? If not which one? I kind of think it is sad that the shop manual doesn't tell you. 2) Has anyone done the brake fluid replacement using only the manual procedure and and skipping the extended BUDS portion? Thanks in advance for any replies. :thumbup:
sabunim5 :spyder:

I did mine at 15, 000 when I knew I needed to replace my back tire and brake pads.
That being said, I wrote all the the 12k service that they wanted down on a spread sheet. Divided the things that I could do myself. (I am not a mechanic, but did my own oil amd coolant change).
Knowing that alot of this stuff is over kill or could be done at the same time. (ie. tire change...check seals and bearings, greese, check lug nuts).
Anyway, except the valve job, my cost was 310.00 to do the 12k check-up, which included me doing the oil change and coolant change (93.00). I think that is plenty of $$$ every 12-15k. FYI, one Y gasket out of 2 needed replacement ( I have aftermarket exhaust). I had alot of popping, now I have none. So, this could be a sign that it needs to be replaced.

 

[Dudley]

I agree with ataDude. After reading many posts by different people, preventative maintenace by dealers varies in cost like sizes of watermelon. Apparently BRP has not set a standard unit/for work for dealers to go by. If a job calls for 2 units, then that's what you pay even if it takes the mechanic 6 units cause he's slow. I will do as much as I can for the Spyder. If I can't the dealer will do it. I can see as well as anyone else can if anything is leaking. I can check for loose nuts and bolts. I have never changed the brake fluid on any bike I have ever owned, and won't on this one. I have never changed the coolant on any bike, but I may on this one, but not at 12,000. I can, and have adjusted the brake cable. I sprayed some oil on the key/spring on the parking brake and it works flawlessly now. My thinking on the valves is simple. If the correct shims were put on at the factory, the 6000 mile check is overkill. The difference in price between "check" and "adjust" is not acceptable. If you're going to remove the head covers to check the valves for, lets say $300, why does it cost over twice as much to adjust, when you replace a shim or 2? My thinking? The "check" is just a check on paper and the covers never come off. I am beginning to think that BRP has many of the Spyder riders running scared that if they don't follow everything by the book the boogy man will get them. I am just posting what has been on my mind for a while. I don't expect anyone to agree with me. These are just my thoughts.

 

[Roger]

Dudley i kind of agree with you " if it's not broke don't fix it" but say you don't do the 6000 mile tune up then at say 10,000 mile something goes wrong do you think they will void the warranty because something did not get done at 6000 mile service. or is it a scare tactict by brp. imho i will never be cheap on anything that has to do with brakes or parking brakes.

 

[Dudley]

Roger...just my thoughts. I don't want anyone to do what I am doing.

 

[smokster]

Dudley i kind of agree with you " if it's not broke don't fix it" but say you don't do the 6000 mile tune up then at say 10,000 mile something goes wrong do you think they will void the warranty because something did not get done at 6000 mile service. or is it a scare tactict by brp. imho i will never be cheap on anything that has to do with brakes or parking brakes.

Most riders have 15,000-25,000. The ones who have check the valves said they were fine. I have 16,000 and have had no issues. To check them every 6k is crazy, maybe every 20k

 

[Roger]

ok thank you dudley and smokster. Dudley i agree with you if you can preform some of the maintenance go for it. there is no better way to learn more about your bike then doing some of the work yourself i will do some myself if companies did not want you to do it they would not publish repair or maintenance manuels. That sounds reasonable.

 

[bjt]

My thinking on the valves is simple. If the correct shims were put on at the factory, the 6000 mile check is overkill. The difference in price between "check" and "adjust" is not acceptable. If you're going to remove the head covers to check the valves for, lets say $300, why does it cost over twice as much to adjust, when you replace a shim or 2? My thinking? The "check" is just a check on paper and the covers never come off. I am beginning to think that BRP has many of the Spyder riders running scared that if they don't follow everything by the book the boogy man will get them. I am just posting what has been on my mind for a while. I don't expect anyone to agree with me. These are just my thoughts.

I think that might depend on the service man at the dealership. I know when my wife's Spyder was in for her 6,000 mile service and shim check, the covers came off the heads because we were there to get something out of her trunk and saw the engine opened up.

 

[Dudley]

I didn't mean to imply they all do it. But it IS something easy to do and get by with it. And in the end it's all about making money for the dealer.

 

[ataDude]

...The difference in price between "check" and "adjust" is not acceptable. If you're going to remove the head covers to check the valves for, lets say $300, why does it cost over twice as much to adjust, when you replace a shim or 2?...

Checking involves basically just removing the valve covers... and the misc stuff to get to them... and then using a feeler gauge to check the valves' clearance.

I do believe that re-shimming requires removal of the cams... that's a lot of work... and dangerous <to the engine> if you don't know what you're doing.

.

 

[bone crusher]

Roger...just my thoughts. I don't want anyone to do what I am doing.

That's the best advice you've given yet...

Just pullin' your chain...no harm intended...
:cheers:

 

[Tonga]

Well, lots being said here and I hear that no shims have been replaced yet. I know that taking the Valve covers off is no easy task and takes time and I for one will pay up to keep my warranty. I have shimed many Valves in the past but have never seen an engine as hard to get at as this Rotax. I will check them myself after warranty period but BRP might back off if something goes wrong and I haven't done my duty. The brake fluid I'll do myself and the coolant as well when needed. Toys cost money. Good luck out there.