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RT Hitch removal and belt adjustment

I tried alignment w/tire off ground

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.
nojoke I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all:cus: broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete
 
nojoke I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all:cus: broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete

He got lucky and yours did what it should do. You should not run your Spyder in gear without pulling the speed sensor and I wouldn't recommend doing that. You can do all your adjustment just fine like I have posted above.
 
Axle Nut

Thanks for all the info on adjusting the belt. Can anyone tell me how tight the axle nut should be? Thanks!!
 
So if you were to adjust your belt without a reference to the original adjustment, what tools do you need to measure tension?

From reading this, the tool Lemont used is assuming the belt tension was correct to begin with?

I am taking mine in for the 600 mile service and my belt is "slightly" up against the flange so I know it needs to be adjusted and I plan to point that out to the dealer.

Thanks,
Bob
 
So if you were to adjust your belt without a reference to the original adjustment, what tools do you need to measure tension?

From reading this, the tool Lemont used is assuming the belt tension was correct to begin with?

I am taking mine in for the 600 mile service and my belt is "slightly" up against the flange so I know it needs to be adjusted and I plan to point that out to the dealer.

Thanks,
Bob

You can measure your belt tension with the Klicket tool, 236 lbs for the 2013, 101 lbs for 2012 on down. What I did was buy the correct Klicket tool (in my case 100 to 300 lb range) to check belt tension when I picked up my new 2013 at the dealership....By the way, the belt checked out at 200 lbs with rear wheel on ground which is on the low side but I have no vibration issues so I left it that way.
 
I LISTENED LAMONT !

I replaced my rear tire an brakes adj. belt like you said (rotated tire by hand) everything turned out great no problems with codes or limp mode.:thumbup: Thanks for the info. (I will listen from now on) PETE
 
I picked up the Kirkit and fir the life of me cant figure out how to use it. I have read the instructions that can with it. But my question, on the Kirkit in the center where the "blue" part is are you suppose to pull up on it to set it before you apply pressure to the belt? And does the Kirkit reset automatically or do I need to do something manually to it to take another reading?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
I picked up the Kirkit and fir the life of me cant figure out how to use it. I have read the instructions that can with it. But my question, on the Kirkit in the center where the "blue" part is are you suppose to pull up on it to set it before you apply pressure to the belt? And does the Kirkit reset automatically or do I need to do something manually to it to take another reading?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The "blue" part is how the Kirkit measures the belt resistance.

Step 1. Make sure the "blue" is flush with the Kirkit or "pushed down"
Step 2. Find the center of the belt between the front sprocket and the rear sprocket.
Step 3. Place the Kirkit centered on the belt and push smoothly down until you hear a "click"
Step 4. Take the reading
Step 5. For an accurate reading - repeat the above after rotating the belt

Hope this helps!



-Mike
 
Thanks Mike,
So just to be sure. I dont have to do anything prior to the Kirkit? Just push down evenly till I get the "click"?

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The Kirkit works just like a torque wrench.....except you do not set it first. The "click" your hear will be the belts tension - kinda automatic.


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>
 
HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks
 
HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

My 2010 RT S runs about 180 lbs. with the krikit. that is where it has been since new. Anything over 200 seems too tight to me and could cause bearing problems.
 
HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

Can I just add.... The belt tension spec is SOOOOOO liberal that it's not rocket science. Scotty can jump in here but the current spec has a 30% variability range! It surprises me that with this HUGE range you even need a sonic gauge! It's like WTF?????

This is my honest opinion now that I have adjusted my belt AND watched many videos and other peoples posts on the "value" they read using the Kirkit gauge! Even from Lamont using the Kirkit gauge!

IT"S NOT FREAKIN THAT CRITICAL!

I did what everyone said. I went and got my 600 mile service and they DID adjust my belt. I know that because my tracking on the rear pulley was off and after service it was spot on! Then, that same day, I got a Kirkit and read the belt tension. It turned out to be EXACTLY like Lamont's video and others that used the Kirkit doing the same as I.

What did this tell me to be honest... IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE! It's not a VOOODOOO adjustment! And I am sorry... You don't need a expensive sonic gauge either! Why BRP does this is beyond me. Maybe they are trying to take into account that not all replacement belts are the same or something?

NOTE: If I had to replace my belt ONLY THEN would I consider the sonic adjustment! Even then I might just freakin say... screw it... I will do it myself.

Your mileage may vary but for me, I wont go to a dealer and spend $100 for a simple belt adjustment. I would be willing to bet right now that a few years from now, I will report back here that I have had NO issues doing this adjustment myself.

My .00000002 cents!

Bob
 
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Curious was checking mine and just tightened it 90' on each side keeps creeping to the outside so I tried tightening left keeps creeping left. How do you get it aligned from scratch if neither side is like it left dealer? Book says same as Lamont if want it right tighten left vice versa can't get it to quit creeping left.

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